Wave height

About: Wave height is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 5920 publications have been published within this topic receiving 100257 citations.

Predicting wave exposure in the rocky intertidal zone: Do bigger waves always lead to larger forces?

Abstract: Hydrodynamic forces from breaking waves are among the most important sources of mortality in the rocky intertidal zone. Information about the forces imposed by breaking waves is therefore critical if we are to interpret the mechanical design and physiological performance of wave-swept organisms in an ecologically and evolutionarily relevant context. Wave theory and engineering experiments predict that the process of wave breaking sets a limit on the maximum force to which organisms can be subjected. Unfortunately, the magnitude of this limit has not been determined on rocky shores. To this end, at a moderately exposed shore in central California, we measured the maximum hydrodynamic forces imposed on organism-sized benthic objects and related these forces to nearshore significant wave heights. At 146 of 221 microsites, there was a significant and substantial positive correlation between force and wave height, and at 130 of these microsites, force increased nonlinearly toward a statistically defined limit. The magnitude of this limit varied among sites, from 19 to 730 newtons (N). At 37 other sites, there was no significant correlation between surf zone force and wave height, indicating that increased wave height did not translate into increased force at these sites either. At only 16 sites did force increase in proportion to wave height without an apparent upper bound. These results suggest that for most microsites there is indeed a limiting wave height beyond which force is independent of wave height. The magnitude of the limit varies substantially among microsites, and an index of local topography was found to predict little of this variation. Thus, caution must be exercised in any attempt to relate observed variations in ocean ‘‘waviness’’ to the corresponding rates of microsite disturbance in intertidal communities. Rocky intertidal invertebrates and algae live in a world of extreme environmental severity, and the risk of damage or dislodgment from wave-generated forces is thought to be among the most important determinants of survival in this habitat (e.g., Dayton 1971; Levin and Paine 1974; Koehl 1979; Paine 1979; Paine and Levin 1981; Sousa 1984; Denny 1987, 1988; Carrington 1990, 2002; Bertness et al. 1991; Hunt and Scheibling 1996; Blanchette 1997). Quantifying the hydrodynamic forces acting on organisms, and how they vary in space and in time, is therefore key to understanding the evolutionary and ecological consequences of morphological design and the subsequent effects of wave-driven forces on the dynamics of intertidal ecosystems (Denny 1988; Koehl 1996; Denny and Wethey 2001; Carrington 2002).

Ocean Wave Integral Parameter Measurements Using Envisat ASAR Wave Mode Data

Abstract: An empirical algorithm to retrieve integral ocean wave parameters such as significant wave height (SWH), mean wave period, and wave height of waves with period larger than 12 s (H12) from synthetic aperture radar (SAR) images over sea surface is presented. The algorithm is an extension to the Envisat Advanced SAR (ASAR) wave mode data based on the CWAVE approach developed for ERS-2 SAR wave mode data and is thus called CWAVE_ENV (CWAVE for Envisat). Calibrated ASAR images are used as the only source of input without needing prior information from an ocean wave model (WAM) as the standard algorithms used in weather centers. This algorithm makes SAR an independent instrument measuring integrated wave parameters like SWH and mean wave period to altimeter quality. A global data set of 25 000 pairs of ASAR wave mode images and collocated reanalysis WAM results from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) is used to tune CWAVE_ENV model coefficients. Validation conducted by comparing the retrieved SWH to in situ buoy measurements shows a scatter index of 0.24 and 0.16 when compared to the ECMWF reanalysis WAM. Two case studies are presented to evaluate the performance of the CWAVE_ENV algorithm for high sea state. A North Atlantic storm during which SWH is above 18 m as observed by SAR and Radar Altimeter simultaneously is analyzed. For an extreme swell case that occurred in the Indian Ocean, the potential of using SWH measurements from ASAR wave mode data derived by the CWAVE_ENV algorithm is demonstrated.

Field Measurements of Rogue Water Waves

Abstract: This paper concerns the collation, quality control, and analysis of single-point field measurements from fixed sensors mounted on offshore platforms. In total, the quality-controlled database contains 122 million individual waves, of which 3649 are rogue waves. Geographically, the majority of the field measurements were recorded in the North Sea, with supplementary data from the Gulf of Mexico, the South China Sea, and the North West shelf of Australia. The significant wave height ranged from 0.12 to 15.4 m, the peak period ranged from 1 to 24.7 s, the maximum crest height was 18.5 m, and the maximum recorded wave height was 25.5 m. This paper will describe the offshore installations, instrumentation, and the strict quality control procedure employed to ensure a reliable dataset. An examination of sea state parameters, environmental conditions, and local characteristics is performed to gain an insight into the behavior of rogue waves. Evidence is provided to demonstrate that rogue waves are not go...

The reflection of impulses from a nonlinear random sea

Abstract: A model of the reflection of radar impulses from the sea at near-vertical incidence is used to account for non-Gaussian ocean waves statistics. The joint probability density function (pdf), of wave height and slope, is calculated according to the theory of Longuet-Higgins (1963) on the distribution of variables in a 'weakly nonlinear' random era. The long-crested approximation is made, a Phillips wave spectrum is assumed, and the Gram-Charlier series is truncated after skewness terms. It is found that the height and height-slope skewness coefficients bear the ratio 1:2 and that the derived impulse response and conditional cross section versus wave height are in excellent agreement with previous observations. Finally, it is suggested that the empirically determined and theoretically predicted sea state bias be corrected for in the routine processing of satellite radar altimeter data.