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Wave height
About: Wave height is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 5920 publications have been published within this topic receiving 100257 citations.
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TL;DR: In this article, the authors used time exposure video images of the nearshore region at Duck, NC to study transverse sand bars, bathymetric features of intermediate length scales (10-200m) oriented oblique or perpendicular to the shoreline.
93 citations
TL;DR: Real-time prediction of significant wave heights for the following 0.5–5.5 h is provided, using information from 3 or more time points, using two machine learning methods – artificial neural networks (ANN) and support vector machine (SVM).
93 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the statistical distribution of zero-crossing wave heights is considered within the context of a previous theory proposed by the writer some years ago and the underlying model, definitions, and assumptions are reexamined systematically to develop asymptotic approximations to the probability density, exceedance probability, and statistical moments of wave heights larger than the mean wave height.
Abstract: The statistical distribution of zero-crossing wave heights is considered within the context of a previous theory proposed by the writer some years ago. The underlying model, definitions, and assumptions are reexamined systematically to develop asymptotic approximations to the probability density, exceedance probability, and statistical moments of wave heights larger than the mean wave height. The asymptotic results have closed forms, and thus are easier to use in practical applications than the original theory, which requires numerical integration. Comparisons to empirical data are given to show that the present asymptotic theory produces the observed statistics of large wave heights faithfully to within 1%. Further, comparisons with other relevant theories also reveal that if one remains true to the theoretical definitions, then the present theory is the most accurate in predicting the exceedance distribution of large wave heights. Finally, the asymptotic theory is coupled with the statistics of wave periods to derive a theoretical expression for the joint distribution of large wave heights and associated periods. The predictive utility of this last result remains to be explored.
93 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a set of empirical formulations are derived that describe important wave properties in shallow water as functions of commonly used parameters such as wave height, wave period, local water depth and local bed slope.
93 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the influence of wind speed and sea maturity on the effect of the generalized wind fetch on the curves of the observed dependence was investigated. And the authors concluded that unambiguous measurements of wind speeds by altimeter, in a wide range of sea states, are impossible without accounting for the actual degree of wave development.
Abstract: For equilibrium and near-equilibrium sea states, the wave slope variance is a function of wind speed U and of the sea maturity. The influence of both factors on the altimeter measurements of wind speed, wave height, and radar cross section is studied experimentally on the basis of 1 year's worth of Geosat altimeter observations colocated with in situ wind and wave measurements by 20 NOAA buoys. Errors and biases in altimeter wind speed and wave height measurements are investigted. A geophysically significant error trend correlated with the sea maturity is found in wind-speed measurements. This trend is explained by examining the effect of the generalized wind fetch on the curves of the observed dependence. It is concluded that unambiguous measurements of wind speed by altimeter, in a wide range of sea states, are impossible without accounting for the actual degree of wave development.
93 citations