Topic
Wave height
About: Wave height is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 5920 publications have been published within this topic receiving 100257 citations.
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TL;DR: This work examines previous calibration studies and after joining the old with more recent data sets a reanalysis of the complete data sets is performed leading to updated regression equations.
62 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, changes in natural sand beaches induced by variations in incident waves were predicted by techniques of linear statistical estimation and empirical eigenfunction analysis using a 5-year set of measured beach profiles and wave statistics from southern California constituted the data base for a two-faceted statistical study.
Abstract: Changes in natural sand beaches induced by variations in incident waves were predicted by techniques of linear statistical estimation and empirical eigenfunction analysis. A 5-year set of measured beach profiles and wave statistics from southern California constituted the data base for this two-faceted statistical study. First, daily beach profile changes were predicted using four different spectral representations of the wave field. These profile changes were predictable using spectral representations of wave energy, radiation stress, energy flux, and wave steepness. Because of constraints on statistical reliability, a longer data set is required to select one of these as an optimal wave parameterization. Second, weekly beach profile changes were predicted using weekly averaged wave characteristics. Weekly beach changes were predictable using weekly mean and maximum values of wave energy and wave height. The best predictor of those tested was the weekly mean wave energy. When combined with a longshore transport model, this onshore/offshore transport estimator should be applicable to other coastal regions with different beach and wave characteristics.
62 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a high-frequency (HF) compact radar system was operated continuously over several weeks aboard the semisubmersible oil platform Treasure Saga for the purpose of wave-height directional measurement and comparison.
Abstract: CODAR, a high-frequency (HF) compact radar system, was operated continuously over several weeks aboard the semisubmersible oil platform Treasure Saga for the purpose of wave-height directional measurement and comparison. During North Sea winter storm conditions, the system operated at two different frequencies, depending on the sea state. Wave data are extracted from the second-order backscatter Doppler spectrum produced by nonlinearities in the hydrodynamic wave/wave and electromagnetic wave/scatter interactions. Because the floating oil rig itself moves in response to long waves, a technique has been developed and successfully demonstrated to eliminate to second order the resulting phase-modulation contamination of the echo, using separate accelerometer measurement of the platform's lateral motions. CODAR wave height, mean direction, and period are compared with data from a Norwegian directional wave buoy; in storm seas with wave heights that exceeded 9 m, the two height measurements agreed to within 20 cm RMS, and the mean direction to better than 15 degrees RMS. >
62 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, a volume of fluid method for coastal structures under the influence of normal incident irregular wave fields is proposed and validated against a multiple of experimental data sets for two dimensional coastal problems.
61 citations
TL;DR: From this study, it is inferred that the Ens-ELM out performs ELM, Online Sequential ELM (OS- ELM), and Support Vector Regression (SVR) in the daily wave height prediction.
61 citations