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Wave height

About: Wave height is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 5920 publications have been published within this topic receiving 100257 citations.


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Journal ArticleDOI
01 May 2015-Energy
TL;DR: In this article, the authors investigated the optimum layout for the co-located wind-wave farm with a view to maximising the benefits of combining wave and offshore wind energy.

57 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the applicability and implications of Bagnold's sediment transport model to nearshore profile modeling are discussed. But the authors focus on the morphologic implications of both the strengths and weaknesses of Baddour's model, isolating the transport terms that are well predicted (i.e., mean flow terms) from those that are not well predicted, i.e. transport due to correlations between flow and sediment load.
Abstract: This paper builds on the now classical discussions by Bowen [1980] and Bailard [1981] on the applicability and implications of Bagnold's [1963] sediment transport model to nearshore profile modeling. We focus on the morphologic implications of both the strengths and weaknesses of Bagnold's model, isolating the transport terms that are well predicted (i.e., mean flow terms) from those that are not well predicted (i.e., transport due to correlations between flow and sediment load). We factor Bagnold's model into a dimensional transport magnitude and a nondimensional term. The nondimensional term describes the relative importance of transport due to undertow, gravity, and correlations between flow and sediment load. The transport magnitude largely determines the response time of nearshore profiles. For typical nearshore environments this response time was estimated to vary as a function of incident rms wave height (Hrms) from ∼500 years (Hrms ∼ 0.5 m) to 2 years (Hrms ∼ 3 m). The relative importance of competing transport mechanisms is shown to depend strongly on the relative wave height (defined as the ratio of the rms wave height to the local depth). Simplified nearshore transport parameterizations that are a function of this variable were derived and were interrogated for the existence and form of equilibrium profiles. Several differences from previously computed equilibrium profiles were noted. First, because the relative wave height saturates in natural surf zones, equilibrium profiles converge to a relatively flat profile near the shoreline. Second, under some situations a seaward sloping equilibrium profile may not exist. Third, the long response times combined with unknown stability of an equilibrium profile make it difficult to assess the physical connection between theoretical equilibrium profiles and profiles observed in nature.

57 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the relationship between the measured wave height and the subsurface wave pressure was directly assessed without resorting to the pressure response factor and the correction factor, and the empirical expression was compared with the experimental data and observational data from Hom-ma et al.

56 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a 19-day DELILAH nearshore experiment with a specific objective of examining variability of the longshore current at tidal frequencies was conducted, and it is hypothesized that breaking wave heights inside the surf zone are strong functions of the depth which are modulated by the tidal variations, since radiation stress is a function of the wave height.
Abstract: Data were acquired continuously during the 19-day DELILAH nearshore experiment with a specific objective of examining variability of the longshore current at tidal frequencies. It is hypothesized that breaking wave heights inside the surf zone are strong functions of the depth which are modulated by the tidal variations, and since radiation stress is a function of the wave height, longshore currents are forced at the tidal frequency inside the surf zone. The measured longshore current variations at tidal frequency are the same order of magnitude as the mean longshore current variations for moderate wave height conditions, indicating that the tide is a dominant mechanism associated with longshore current variability. Simulations of the magnitude and phase of the longshore current variability with tide elevation using the model by Thornton and Guza (1986) are used to explain observations. The measured tidal elevation and longshore current are in phase in the inner surf zone and out of phase in the outer surf zone as predicted by the model, verifying the hypothesis.

56 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the dependence of the whitecap coverage on wind speed, wave age, wave steepness, mean square slope, and wind-wave and breaking Reynolds numbers was determined from over 600 highfrequency visible imagery recordings of 20 min each.
Abstract: Concurrent wavefield and turbulent flux measurements acquired during the Southern Ocean (SO) Gas Exchange (GasEx) and the High Wind Speed Gas Exchange Study (HiWinGS) projects permit evaluation of the dependence of the whitecap coverage W on wind speed, wave age, wave steepness, mean square slope, and wind-wave and breaking Reynolds numbers. The W was determined from over 600 high-frequency visible imagery recordings of 20 min each. Wave statistics were computed from in situ and remotely sensed data as well as from a WAVEWATCH III hindcast. The first shipborne estimates of W under sustained 10-m neutral wind speeds U10N of 25 m s−1 were obtained during HiWinGS. These measurements suggest that W levels off at high wind speed, not exceeding 10% when averaged over 20 min. Combining wind speed and wave height in the form of the wind-wave Reynolds number resulted in closely agreeing models for both datasets, individually and combined. These are also in good agreement with two previous studies. When exp...

56 citations


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Performance
Metrics
No. of papers in the topic in previous years
YearPapers
2023166
2022326
2021251
2020262
2019272
2018242