Topic
Waves and shallow water
About: Waves and shallow water is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 5833 publications have been published within this topic receiving 108413 citations.
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TL;DR: In this paper, a multispectral scanner system was used to obtain information on the water attenuation and bottom reflectance parameters without knowledge of the water depth, which was used for a test site near North Cat Cay in the Bahamas.
Abstract: The reflectance of shallow water areas to solar illumination is a function of the water depth, the water optical properties and the bottom reflectance. Assuming the water optical properties to be uniform over a given scene area, the signals recorded by a multispectral scanner system may be combined to obtain information on the water attenuation and bottom reflectance parameters without knowledge of the water depth. These techniques are described and evaluated for a test site near North Cat Cay in the Bahamas.
659 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a computational procedure has been developed for simulating non-hydrostatic, free-surface, rotational flows in one and two horizontal dimensions using SWASH.
575 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the authors describe experiments and computer simulations of the run-up and return of a solitary wave traveling over shallowing water and then onto a dry beach backed by a vertical wall.
Abstract: In this paper, we describe experiments and computer simulations of the run-up and return of a solitary wave traveling over shallowing water and then onto a dry beach backed by a vertical wall. This topography is similar to that of beaches on the north coast of Crete, where narrow coastal plains are backed by steeply rising mountains. The experiments show that the solitary wave collapses onto the dry beach without curling over. It then flows to the vertical wall where it rises up, splashes, curls over, and finally returns as a turbulent bore. On reaching the original water's edge, the bore produces a zig-zag surface perturbation. The simulations reproduce the experiments accurately.
562 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, a numerical code based on Nwogu's equations is developed, which uses a fourth-order predictor-corrector method to advance in time, and discretizes first-order spatial derivatives to fourthorder accuracy, thus reducing all truncation errors to a level smaller than the dispersive terms.
Abstract: The extended Boussinesq equations derived by Nwogu (1993) significantly improve the linear dispersive properties of long-wave models in intermediate water depths, making it suitable to simulate wave propagation from relatively deep to shallow water. In this study, a numerical code based on Nwogu's equations is developed. The model uses a fourth-order predictor-corrector method to advance in time, and discretizes first-order spatial derivatives to fourth-order accuracy, thus reducing all truncation errors to a level smaller than the dispersive terms retained by the model. The basic numerical scheme and associated boundary conditions are described. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable depth, and computed solutions are compared with experimental data. These initial results indicate that the model is capable of simulating wave transformation from relatively deep water to shallow water, giving accurate predictions of the height and shape of shoaled waves in both regular and irregular wave experiments.
546 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the existence and uniqueness of global weak solutions for an equation describing the motion of waves at the free surface of shallow water under the influence of gravity was shown. But the existence of weak solutions was not proved.
Abstract: We show the existence and uniqueness of global weak solutions for an equation describing the motion of waves at the free surface of shallow water under the influence of gravity.
513 citations