Fragrance is an integral part of cosmetic products and is often regarded as an overriding factor in the selection of cosmetics among consumers. Fragrances also play a considerable role in masking undesirable smells arising from fatty acids, oils and surfactants that are commonly used in cosmetic formulations. Essential oils are vital assets in the cosmetic industry, as along with imparting pleasant aromas in different products, they are able to act as preservatives and active agents and, simultaneously, offer various benefits to the skin. Moreover, the stimulating demand for natural ingredients has contributed massively to a renewed interest in cosmetic and wellness industries in plant derivatives, especially essential oils. This has led popular cosmetic companies to endorse natural fragrances and opt for minimally processed natural ingredients, given the potentially adverse health risks associated with artificial fragrance chemicals, which are major elements of cosmetics. Among the high-valued essential oils used as fragrances are citrus, lavender, eucalyptus, tea tree and other floral oils, among others, while linalool, geraniol, limonene, citronellol, and citral are much-appreciated fragrance components used in different cosmetics. Thus, this review aimed to highlight the enormous versatility of essential oils as significant sources of natural fragrances in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Moreover, a special focus will be laid on the different aspects related to essential oils such as their sources, market demand, chemistry, fragrance classification, aroma profile, authenticity and safety.

https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/26/3/666/pdf

Essential Oils as Natural Sources of Fragrance Compounds for Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals.

Using essential oils to overcome bacterial biofilm formation and their antimicrobial resistance.

The incidence of fungal infections has been steadily increasing in recent years. Systemic mycoses are characterized by the highest mortality. At the same time, the frequency of infections caused by drug-resistant strains and new pathogens e.g., Candida auris increases. An alternative to medicines may be essential oils, which can have a broad antimicrobial spectrum. Rich in the essential oils are plants from the Lamiaceae family. In this review are presented antifungal activities of essential oils from 72 Lamiaceae plants. More than half of these have good activity (minimum inhibitory concentrations (MICs) < 1000 µg/mL) against fungi. The best activity (MICs < 100) have essential oils from some species of the genera Clinopodium, Lavandula, Mentha, Thymbra, and Thymus. In some cases were observed significant discrepancies between different studies. In the review are also shown the most important compounds of described essential oils. To the chemical components most commonly found as the main ingredients include β-caryophyllene (41 plants), linalool (27 plants), limonene (26), β-pinene (25), 1,8-cineole (22), carvacrol (21), α-pinene (21), p-cymene (20), γ-terpinene (20), and thymol (20).

https://www.mdpi.com/2218-273X/10/1/103/pdf

Essential Oils of Lamiaceae Family Plants as Antifungals.

Laurel, Laurus nobilis L. is an evergreen plant belonging to the Lauraceae family, native to Southern Europe and the Mediterranean area. This is the first report on the composition and bioactivity of laurel essential oil (EO) from Bulgaria. The oil yield was 0.78%, 0.80%, and 3.25% in the fruits, twigs, and leaves, respectively. The main constituents in the fruit EO were 1,8-cineole (33.3%), α-terpinyl acetate (10.3%), α-pinene (11.0%), β-elemene (7.5%), sabinene (6.3%), β-phellandrene (5.2%), bornyl acetate (4.4%), and camphene (4.3%); those in the twig EO were 1,8-cineole (48.5%), α-terpinyl acetate (13.1%), methyl eugenol (6.6%), β-linalool (3.8%), β-pinene (3.4%), sabinene (3.3%) and terpinene-4-ol (3.3%); and the ones in the leaf EO were 1,8-cineole (41.0%), α-terpinyl acetate (14.4%), sabinene (8.8%), methyl eugenole (6.0%), β-linalool (4.9%), and α-terpineol (3.1%). The antibacterial and antifungal properties of laurel EOs were examined according to the agar well diffusion method. The leaf EO showed antibacterial and antifungal activities against almost all strains of the microorganisms tested, whereas the twig EO was only able to inhibit Staphylococcus aureus. Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 9027 and Escherichia coli ATCC 8739 were the bacterial strains that showed the highest resistance to the laurel EO. The results can benefit the EO industry and biopesticide development.

https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/24/4/804/pdf

Chemical Composition and Antimicrobial Activity of Laurus nobilis L. Essential Oils from Bulgaria.

Citrus grandis Osbeck, commonly known as "pomelo" or "shaddock," is the largest citrus fruit, the peel of which is a well-known agricultural residual waste. Pomelo peel offers a wide range of components such as essential oils, polysaccharides, and phytochemicals with potential food applications. Utilization of pomelo peel to recover these components is an important step toward agricultural sustainability. This review covers pomelo peel utilization opportunities beyond conventional composting and animal feed production, and critically examines value-added uses via the recovery of potentially bioactive components. The peel of pomelo accounts for approximately 30% of the total fruit weight and contains phytochemicals, including aroma-active volatiles, pectin, flavonoids, phenolic acids, carotenoids, coumarins, and polysaccharides. Recovery of these phytochemicals offers an opportunity for value-added utilization such as the development of enriched or functional foods and nutraceuticals. The health-promoting and therapeutic potential of pomelo peel extracts and isolated pure compounds have been evaluated through numerous in vitro and in vivo studies that revealed a wide range of bioactivities, including hypolipidemic, hypoglycemic, antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and anticancer effects. Preclinical evidence highlights multifaceted molecular and signaling events that possibly underlie the said bioactive potential. Overall, the pomelo processing industry offers a great opportunity to recover or produce valuable products from the large amounts of residual wastes it generates. It is envisaged that a thorough understanding of the bioactive components of pomelo peel, their functional and nutraceutical applications, and mode of actions will benefit the food industry.

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1111/1541-4337.12561

Valorization of pomelo (Citrus grandis Osbeck) peel: A review of current utilization, phytochemistry, bioactivities, and mechanisms of action.

Essential oils are widely incorporated in cosmetic products, perfumes and related household products due to the variety of their properties but mainly due to their pleasant odour. The composition of these volatile natural complex mixtures may vary depending on the quality of plant material from which they were obtained and the extraction method by which they were derived. These factors are also important in ensuring the safe use of essential oils in personal care products. As they contain compounds with varied chemical structure and effects, skin sensitivity and irritations as well as other symptoms may arise after their application. Although essential oils are considered as safe and nontoxic when used at low concentrations, available scientific literature indicates that essential oils and their compounds may possess a strong allergy potential. This review focuses on side effects and allergy contact dermatitis caused by selected essential oils and their single compounds in cosmetic products, summarizing data from the most recent scientific literature.

Asja Sarkic

Papers

Essential Oils and Their Single Compounds in Cosmetics—A Critical Review