Research methods, aids and materials Printed documentary sources Maps and plans Archives – descriptions and examples Guides to the literature and printed documentary sources Urban history, definitions and aims Historiography Theory of urbanization Empirical studies of urbanization History, growth and fortunes of individual towns Portraits of towns literary, photographic Literary portrayals and personal reminiscences Graphic and photographic portrayals

Bibliography of urban history 2016

Empire and Adolescence: Whiteness and Gendered Citizenship in American Young Adult Literature, 1904-1951

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Femininity and Higher Education: Women at Ontario Universities, 1890 to 1920

Book Review: Doing the town: the rise of urban tourism in the United States

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Dressing Indian: Appropriation, Identity, and American Design, 1940-1968

In a span of 50 years, sportswear in South Florida evolved from the idiosyncratic daywear of elite Northerners vacationing in Palm Beach to a nationally visible industry. This paper presents three stages in the evolution of the sportswear industry in South Florida in general and in the Miami area in particular. The first stage (c.1900-1920) relates to the founding of Palm Beach and the growth of an American market for a blossoming French industry. The second stage (c. 1920-1945) explores how a confluence of economic, social and cultural trends following World War One spurred rapid growth in Miami and gave rise to a completely new genre of clothing—one designed by Americans for Americans. The third stage (c. 1945-1960) explores how South Florida became a major producer of the very clothing it was instrumental in popularizing. Ironically, this crucial third stage was propelled by the same groups the original founders of the area sought to exclude—Jews and minorities. The interplay between South Florida and sportswear is not simply a nuanced study of a specific place and time. Rather, the evolution of the industry drastically redefined the American wardrobe. This analysis demonstrates how the study of clothing can inform our understanding of social change by adding texture and tangibility to American history.

Made in Miami: The Development of the Sportswear Industry in South Florida, 1900–1960

Winner of the Best Graduate Student Paper Award at the 2007 American Culture Association Conference The study of fashion is proving to be far less capricious than it was considered two decades ago; the subject has received attention from scholars ranging from anthropologists (e.g., Tranberg Hansen; Eicher) to sociologists (e.g., Davis; Crane) to scholars of material culture (e.g., Barnard; Steele). However, it is the visual manifestations of fashion that have most often caught the eye of scholars; fashion photographs, designer's illustrations, magazine layouts, and the garments themselves document the dramatic shift in the American wardrobe over the course of the twentieth century. While the evolution of the era's aesthetic is well-studied, questions remain as to how specific trends evolved and came to national prominence. There has been limited inquiry into the social, cultural, and economic forces that bring fashion trends to life and inexorably lead to their demise.1 This is a case study of the clothing worn by students at Princeton University between 1900 and 1925. It aims to demonstrate how the University's homogenous student body actively crafted a clothing style to fit their leisure-focused lifestyle. Long before sportswear was acceptable street attire, Princeton men wore it on a daily basis to socialize and to study. Clothing carried much currency on the Princeton campus and one's tie, hat, or lapel decoration told of his social standing. Yet not everyone enjoyed the privilege of participating in the campus's fashion system. Freshmen were forced by convention-and roving bands of sophomores-to wear a specified uniform, consisting of a black sweater, corduroy pants, and black shoes. This well adhered to "pecking order" actively controlled the clothing of all students. Each class was allowed more and more freedom, and, by the spring of their senior year, students earned the right to wear the coveted beer suit-a white canvas suit perfect for protecting Brooks Brothers jackets from leaky keg taps. Both gender and class provide analytical frameworks for this study. The sportswear worn on the campus year-round signaled a dramatic shift in menswear styles and in notions of manhood. The article explores how the University's elitist and self-regulating student culture played a pivotal role in redefining the American man as youthful, leisure focused and casually, yet carefully dressed. Class is central to understanding how students were able to indoctrinate and monitor newcomers. Unapologetically homogenous, Princeton was a rich boy's university; in the period studied, more than eighty percent of its students came from private high schools. Fashion flourished in this well funded and fertile ground. The focus here is twofold. First, this study considers the elite nature of the Princeton student body and the role private high schools and selective eating clubs played in keeping it so. In this "birds of a feather" environment, club-associated regalia took on increased meaning, as it connoted belonging and honors earned. Varsity sweaters and sports team blazers spoke of an involvement with sports. Princeton men were avid sportsmen who took to the links and courts with fervor-and they dressed the part. The dominance of leisure clothing illustrates the interface between class and gender; fashions associated with elite sports, such as golf and tennis, were worn around the clock and across the seasons. Princeton men implemented casual attire such as knickers and oxfords into their wardrobes on a year-round basis, a harbinger of the casualization of menswear. The second aim is to understand how the University's elaborate social hierarchy served as a means of turning a Princeton boy into a Princeton man. Regulating what freshman could and could not wear was part of the initiation into a campus culture that stressed the importance of clothing. The cultural significance of these rituals was seen when their usefulness was called into question by the students themselves. …

Caps, Canes, and Coonskins: Princeton and the Evolution of Collegiate Clothing, 1900–1930

Brains and beauty? From the pants suit of Wellesley grad Hillary Clinton to the toned arms of Princetonian Michelle Obama, the American public is preoccupied with the physical appearance of highly educated women. This article explores how administrators, publicists, and students at Radcliffe College mounted a half-century-long campaign to convince America that smart girls can be sexy.

https://www.jstor.org/stable/info/25652053

“Prettier Than They Used to Be”: Femininity, Fashion, and the Recasting of Radcliffe's Reputation, 1900–1950

Creating the Big Easy: New Orleans and the Emergence of Modern Tourism 1918–1945, and: New Orleans on Parade: Tourism and the Transformation of the Crescent City (review)

In the college shop, “gushing freshmen” drank “limitless free Cokes” and jukeboxes “play forever without nickels.” These seasonal sections of the ever-evolving department store popped up “all over town during the last weeks of August, like mushrooms after a rain” and disappeared with the first frost. Here, a staff of students sold—and many more bought—casual clothing. The popularity of the shops in the 1930 s reached a fevered pitch in the 1940 s, but in a post-war shopping culture that prioritized diversity of choice and less didactic sales tactics, retailers moved casual clothes out of a specific area and into departments throughout the store. Women young and old followed the college woman’s lead and collectively they demanded sweaters, culottes, sports coats, tennis shoes, gored skirts, and the much-bemoaned slacks. Manufacturers and retailers stopped trying to shape or even understand the women’s choices; they just obliged. The lifecycle of the college shop gauges changes in American consumerism over time, but it also offers a more complete understanding of clothing as a primary and enduring aspect of the human experience.

Deirdre Clemente

Papers

Made in Miami: The Development of the Sportswear Industry in South Florida, 1900–1960

Caps, Canes, and Coonskins: Princeton and the Evolution of Collegiate Clothing, 1900–1930

“Prettier Than They Used to Be”: Femininity, Fashion, and the Recasting of Radcliffe's Reputation, 1900–1950

Creating the Big Easy: New Orleans and the Emergence of Modern Tourism 1918–1945, and: New Orleans on Parade: Tourism and the Transformation of the Crescent City (review)

The College Shop: Making, Selling, and Buying Women's Casual Clothing, 1930–1970