Morphodynamics of intermediate beaches: a video imaging and numerical modelling study

Shoreline response to multi-functional artificial surfing reefs: A numerical and physical modelling study

Incorporating recreational surfing into coastal management practices is required to protect the seabed features and oceanographic processes that create surfing waves. A review of research-based surfing literature is undertaken to provide a summary of information available to assist in coastal management decision making around surfing breaks. The different categories of research-based surfing literature are identified as artificial surfing reef (ASR) design, ASR monitoring, ASR construction, ASR sediment dynamics, biomechanics, coastal management, economics and tourism, industry, numerical and physical modeling, surfers and waves, sociology, and physical processes. The majority of this research has been undertaken in the last decade, making it a relatively young research area. As a background for nonsurfing coastal researchers and managers, the characteristics of surfing waves and surfing breaks are described, referring to relevant literature. Wave height, peel angle, breaking intensity, and secti...

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Research-Based Surfing Literature for Coastal Management and the Science of Surfing—A Review

Case studies showing the growth and development of geotextile sand containers: an australian perspective

The impact of coastal protection on surfing resources is poorly understood and rarely quantified prior to construction There is an increased requirement for surfing resources worldwide as participation levels in the sport grow There is also an increased requirement for coastal protection as the occupancy in the coastal zone increases This research paper takes the first steps towards a schematic categorization of the effect of coastal protection on surfing resources To do this, we sourced the data through the global network of Surfrider Foundations via questionnaires These questionnaires enquired about wave quality, crowd levels, stakeholder participation, and the economic importance of surfing to the local area before and after the construction of coastal protection The results show that of the 30 surfing resources surveyed, 18 experienced a reduction in wave quality and 12 showed an enhancement, or no change, in wave quality The paper provides an explanation of the results by proposing me

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The Implications of Coastal Protection and Development on Surfing

The first offshore reef developed to amalgamate world-class surfing, public amenity and coastal protection is described. The reef is at Narrowneck Beach on the Gold Coast, Australia, a long, sandy coast experiencing large cyclone waves and high net longshore transport. The reef design was based on bathymetric and wave breaking studies of world-class surfing breaks and numerical model predictions. A broad range of different shapes was numerically tested using refraction, Boussinesq refraction/diffraction and sediment transport models. The shape that met the design criteria, for both the surfing and shoreline protection characteristics, was found to be a submerged double-sided headland. The designed reef is 400 m long and extends from the natural 2 m isobath to a toe in 10.4 m depth, with the crest at 0.4 m below the Lowest Astronomical Tide. The shape allowed both 'left' and 'right' surfing waves to be included. Peel angles are rarely less than 40? (in predominant small waves) and seabed gradients of up to 1:12 produce steep plunging wave faces, making the surfing wave 'fast' and 'hollow'. In small swell, a large, focussing underwater segment will more than double the deep water wave height at the breakpoint. A slower 100 m long segment at the shoreward end is designed for surfing beginners and casual tourists. Because the adjacent beaches experience close-out conditions in big swells, a paddling channel has been placed at the offshore tip of the reef to give surfers access during large swell. A lagoon shoreward of the reef provides sheltered paddling and, at low tide, sheltered swimming for beach-goers. Wave interference patterns inshore of the reef are expected to provide challenging 'wedgey' waves for body boarders, while the offshore placement of the reef provides ideal wave jumping conditions for the sailboarder.

Kerry Blackt

Papers

Design of the Gold Coast reef for surfing, public amenity and coastal protection: surfing aspects