1. Introduction 2. Observation techniques 3. Description of ocean waves 4. Statistics 5. Linear wave theory (oceanic waters) 6. Waves in oceanic waters 7. Linear wave theory (coastal waters) 8. Waves in coastal waters 9. The SWAN wave model Appendices References Index.

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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

A new, closed nonlinear integral transformation relation is derived describing the mapping of a two-dimensional ocean wave spectrum into a synthetic aperture radar (SAR) image spectrum. The general integral relation is expanded in a power series with respect to orders of nonlinearity and velocity bunching. The individual terms of the series can be readily computed using fast Fourier transforms. The convergence of the series is rapid. The series expansion is also useful in identifying the different contributions to the net imaging process, consisting of the real aperture radar (RAR) cross-section modulation, the nonlinear motion (velocity bunching) effects, and their various interaction products. The lowest term of the expansion with respect to nonlinearity order yields a simple quasi-linear approximate mapping relation consisting of the standard linear SAR modulation expression multiplied by an additional nonlinear Gaussian azimuthal cutoff factor. The cutoff scale is given by the rms azimuthal (velocity bunching) displacement. The same cutoff factor applies to all terms of the power series expansion. The nonlinear mapping relation is inverted using a standard first-guess wave spectrum as regularization term. This is needed to overcome the basic 180° mapping ambiguity and the loss of information beyond the azimuthal cutoff. The inversion is solved numerically using an iteration technique based on the successive application of the explicit solution for the quasi-linear mapping approximation, with interposed corrections invoking the full nonlinear mapping expression. A straightforward application of this technique, however, generally yields unrealistic discontinuities of the best fit wave spectrum in the transition region separating the low azimuthal wave number domain, in which useful SAR information is available and the wave spectrum is modified, from the high azimuthal wave number region beyond the azimuthal cutoff, where the first-guess wave spectrum is retained. This difficulty is overcome by applying a two-step inversion procedure. In the first step the energy level of the wave spectrum is adjusted, and the wave number plane rotated and rescaled, without altering the shape of the spectrum. Using the resulting globally fitted spectrum as the new first-guess input spectrum, the original inversion method is then applied without further constraints in a second step to obtain a final fine-scale optimized spectrum. The forward mapping relation and inversion algorithms are illustrated for three Seasat cases representing different wave conditions corresponding to weakly, moderately, and strongly nonlinear imaging conditions.

https://pure.mpg.de/pubman/item/item_3320035_3/component/file_3320036/91JC00302.pdf

On the nonlinear mapping of an ocean wave spectrum into a synthetic aperture radar image spectrum and its inversion

A prediction model for stationary, short-crested waves in shallow water with ambient currents

Measurements of short water waves using stereo matched image sequences

Wind-sea generation was observed during two experiments off the coast of North Carolina. One event with offshore winds of 9–11 m s−1 directed 20° from shore normal was observed with eight directional stations recording simultaneously and spanning a fetch from 4 to 83 km. An opposing swell of 1-m height and 10-s period was also present. The wind-sea part of the wave spectrum conforms to established growth curves for significant wave height and peak period, except at inner-shelf stations where a large alongshore wind-sea component was observed. At these short fetches, the mean wave direction θm was observed to change abruptly across the wind-sea spectral peak, from alongshore at lower frequencies to downwind at higher frequencies. Waves from another event with offshore winds of 6–14 m s−1 directed 20°–30° from shore normal were observed with two instrument arrays. A significant amount of low-frequency wave energy was observed to propagate alongshore from the region where the wind was strongest. The...

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Swell and Slanting-Fetch Effects on Wind Wave Growth

Directional energy distributions of wind-generated waves were observed with a relatively high directional resolution in fairly homogeneous and stationary wind fields in fetch-limited conditions using stereophotography of the sea surface In a situation that is traditionally considered as the ideal fetch-limited wave-generation situation, the shapes of the observed distributions were found to agree well with the cos2s(θ/2) model proposed by Longuet-Higgins et al (1963) In non-ideal situations in which the wind slanted across the upwind coastline or in which the upwind coastline was irregular, the shapes of the directional distributions were strongly influenced by the geometry of the upwind coastline This suggests that the process of wave generation is directionally decoupled

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L. H. Holthuijsen

Papers

Observations of the Directional Distribution of Ocean-Wave Energy in Fetch-Limited Conditions