: The Coastal Inlets Research Program (CIRP) of the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, in collaboration with two universities in Japan, has developed a spectral wave transformation numerical model to address needs of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers navigation projects. The model is called CMS-Wave and is part of Coastal Modeling System (CMS) developed in the CIRP. The CMS is a suite of coupled models operated in the Surface-water Modeling System (SMS), which is an interactive and comprehensive graphical user interface environment for preparing model input, running models, and viewing and analyzing results. CMS-Wave is designed for accurate and reliable representation of wave processes affecting operation and maintenance of coastal inlet structures in navigation projects as well as in risk and reliability assessment of shipping in inlets and harbors. Important wave processes at coastal inlets are diffraction, refraction, reflection, wave breaking, and dissipation mechanisms, and the wave-current interaction. The effect of locally-generated wind can also be significant during wave propagation at inlets. This report provides information on CMS-Wave theory, numerical implementation, and SMS interface. A set of examples are given to demonstrate the model's applicability for storm-damage assessment, modification to jetties including jetty extensions, jetty breaching, addition of spurs to inlet jetties, and planning and design of nearshore reefs and barrier islands to protect beaches and promote navigation reliability.

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CMS-Wave: A nearshore spectral wave processes model for coastal inlets and navigation projects

Decadal morphological response of an ebb-tidal delta and down-drift beach to artificial breaching and inlet stabilisation

: There are four reports documenting the Verification and Validation (V&V) of the Coastal Modeling System (CMS): an executive summary, waves, circulation, and sediment transport/morphodynamics, respectively. This is the second technical report (Report 2) that describes the wave modeling component of the V&V study. The goal of the report was to critically assess both general and special predictive skills of CMS-Wave, a spectral wave model in the CMS developed to address a variety of needs for coastal inlet applications. For model verification, a number of simple and idealized cases were selected to approve the basic physics and computational algorithms implemented in CMS-Wave. For model validation, a collection of more complicated cases with either laboratory or field data representing real world problems were assembled to confirm the overall performance or special capabilities of CMS-Wave. Provided in this report are descriptions of the V&V cases, model set up and boundary conditions specified in each case, and assessment of model performance. Major findings for each case are provided as guidance to users for future applications of CMS-Wave.

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Verification and Validation of the Coastal Modeling System: Report 2: CMS-Wave

: This report summarizes the framework and provides key findings of the Verification and Validation (V&V) study for the Coastal Modeling System (CMS), a product of the Coastal Inlets Research Program (CIRP). There are three components of the study: Verification, Calibration, and Validation, and these are termed for simplicity as V&V herein and in the companion reports. This is the first report, Report 1, in a series of four reports, and it provides a synopsis of the major findings from the other three reports. Verification & Validation was performed for three main components of the CMS: CMS-Wave (Report 2), CMS-Flow (Report 3) and Sediment Transport and Morphology Change (Report 4). This Summary is intended for engineers and scientists considering whether the CMS would be appropriate for their projects, (after which they may study the other V&V reports), and for managers and decision-makers so that they will have a succinct resource detailing the performance of each CMS component as well as the integrated modeling system.

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Verification and Validation of the Coastal Modeling System. Report 1: Summary Report

: Wave diffraction is a fundamental wave transformation process that occurs at all coastal inlets. The purpose of this Coastal and Hydraulics Engineering Technical Note (CHETN) is to demonstrate the numerical modeling capability to represent wave diffraction and reflection available in the WABED (Wave-Action Balance Equation with Diffraction) model. The WABED model is available as a nearshore wave transformation model in the Coastal Inlets Research Program's (CIRP's) Coastal Modeling System (CMS). Performance of the model is examined in this CHETN with two physical model data sets. The first data set pertains to a detached semi-infinite breakwater in front of a natural inlet, and an inlet with dual jetties. The second data set pertains to an inlet protected either by reflecting or absorbing jetties. Wave diffraction, wave reflection, and consequences of these processes on numerically simulated currents are examined with the two-dimensional (2-D) circulation model M2D. Future technical notes in this series will describe the interface and report additional validation and enhancements of WABED.

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Wave-Action Balance Equation Diffraction (WABED) Model: Tests of Wave Diffraction and Reflection at Inlets

: ELECTRONIC FILE CHARACTERISTICS: 572 files; MS Word (DOC) and TXT PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION: 1 computer laser optical disc (CD-ROM); 4 3/4 in; 227 MB SYSTEMS DETAIL NOTE: IBM-clone PC-compatible ABSTRACT: This physical model study of wave refraction-diffraction at structures typically present at coastal inlets was conducted to provide data sets that would aid in the calibration and verification of numerical wave models The study was performed in the Coastal Inlet Research Program's (CIRP) idealized inlet experimental basin at the US Army Engineer Research and Development Center (ERDC), Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory (CHL) Safe navigation, sediment transport into navigation channels, and shoreline erosion are all concerns at coastal inlets and are related to the transformation of waves as they change direction and height due to complex bathymetry and coastal inlet structures The idealized inlet physical model, created for inlet studies, provided a facility in which to make wave measurements of height and direction in enough detail to document wave diffraction and refraction Measurements of wave information included use of capacitive wave rods for wave height, acoustic-Doppler velocity sensors for wave direction, and new video-based wave direction measurement system Four idealized structural configurations were examined with two irregular Waves, 08 sec, 02 ft (61 cm), and 16 sec, 015 ft (46 cm), and one regular wave, 08 sec, 015 ft (46 cm) Structure 1 consisted of a shore-parallel breakwater with the wave generator creating shore-normal and 20-deg-angle waves Structure 2 was a typical dogleg jetty with shore-normal and 20-deg-angle waves Structure 3 was an unjettied inlet but included flood currents Structure 4 had parallel jetties at the inlet Structures 3 and 4 were concerned with wave transportation into the bay A total of 30 wave gauges were used to acquire data with 20 gauges placed on two movable racks for deployment into specified 7

Physical model study of wave diffraction-refraction at an idealized inlet

: The Coastal and Hydraulics Engineering Technical Note (CHETN) provides information on the performance of selected weir jetty systems constructed in the United States and discussion of their functioning. A companion CHETN (Seabergh 2002) presents the design elements of weir jetty systems.

Weir Jetties at Coastal Inlets. Part 2. Case Studies

: The Los Angeles - Long Beach Harbors physical model for harbor resonance was used to investigate the effects of Stages 1 and 2 of the Pier 400 Project on long waves (periods 30 - 500 sec) at existing and proposed berth locations. Three long-period wave spectra were selected for use. They included two storm conditions: 1 February 1986 and the Martin Luther King Day Storm on 17 January 1988. They were representative of long waves from the west. An average condition wave spectrum was developed based on long-term wave information and was representative of long waves from the south. These spectra were used to program the wave generators and wave data were collected at 77 harbor gages. Stage 1 was initially constructed and tested. No significant wave amplifications were noted at the Pier 300 berths with the solid fill causeway joining Terminal Island and Pier 400. When a 243.84-m- (800-ft-) wide gap was opened in the causeway at the end of the Pier 300 channel, some increases in amplification were noted at Pier 300 though overall energy was still relatively low. Most existing berth locations had similar changes for Stages 1 and 2, with decreases in wave amplifications most prevalent. Some increases in wave amplifications as a result of the proposed construction in the Port of Los Angeles were noted at about 4 to 5 percent of the existing berth locations in the 25- to 40-sec and 41- to 205-sec energy bands and 10 per. cent for the 206- to 519-sec energy bands.

Los Angeles Harbor Pier 400 Harbor Resonance Model Study.

: Long period wave data have been collected at an offshore wave gauge and seven harbor gauges for over 8 years in the Los Angeles/Long Beach Harbor region These data are being used in studies for the design of expansion of the harbors In particular, the data have been used to select long period spectra for reproduction in a physical model of the harbors The analysis of prototype wave data indicated correlation between the long wave spectrum and the short wave spectrum Information was examined to determine the effect of the source of the short period waves (Southern Hemisphere swell, hurricanes, or winter storms, typically from the west) on the nature of the long period component of the waves Relationships between the origin of the wave energy and long wave period were determined Wave statistics were used to interpret effects of the energy level on the wave transformation into the harbors and correlate long wave and short wave spectra Examination of a 5 to 22 sec short wave period and a 30 to 400 sec long wave period indicated correlation of smaller short wave periods with smaller long wave periods, and larger short wave periods with larger long wave periods Observations of moored ship motion level was correlated to long wave energy in a harbor basin

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Los Angeles and Long Beach Harbors Model Enhancement Program: Long Waves and Harbor Resonance Analysis

: Three long-period wave spectra were selected for use in the Los Angeles Long Beach Harbors physical models for harbor resonance studies. They included two storms: 1 February 1986 and the Martin Luther King Day Storm on 17 January 1988. An average condition wave spectrum was developed based on long- term wave information. These spectra were used to program the wave generators, and wave data were collected at seven harbor gages in the model where prototype data had been collected. A comparison of model and prototype data indicated good correlation. The model was constructed to the most recent harbor configuration and included Long Beach Harbor's Pier J expansion. Additional long-period wave data were collected at berth locations throughout the harbors for the three wave spectra conditions in order to have base data to compare with data collected for proposed plans of harbor development. This work will minimize time and cost for Los Angeles and Long Beach Harbors' harbor resonance studies. Harbor resonance, Long-period wave, Physical model

William C. Seabergh

Papers

Physical model study of wave diffraction-refraction at an idealized inlet

Weir Jetties at Coastal Inlets. Part 2. Case Studies

Los Angeles Harbor Pier 400 Harbor Resonance Model Study.

Los Angeles and Long Beach Harbors Model Enhancement Program: Long Waves and Harbor Resonance Analysis

Los Angeles and Long Beach Harbors Model Enhancement Program, Improved Physical Model Harbor Resonance Methodology