1. Introduction 2. Observation techniques 3. Description of ocean waves 4. Statistics 5. Linear wave theory (oceanic waters) 6. Waves in oceanic waters 7. Linear wave theory (coastal waters) 8. Waves in coastal waters 9. The SWAN wave model Appendices References Index.

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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

Earlier models of random wave transformation are reviewed in the first section. Then the transformation of waves, including dissipation due to breaking and bottom friction, is described by an energy flux balance model. The wave height pdf of all waves (broken and unbroken) is shown by the field data to be well described by the Rayleigh distribution everywhere. The observed distributions of breaking and broken wave heights are fitted to simple analytical forms, and breaking wave dissipation is calculated by using a periodic bore formulation. The energy flux equation is integrated to yield local values of Hrms as a function of offshore wave conditions. Both analytical and numerical models are developed. In the last section the models are compared with results from random wave experiments in the laboratory and from an extensive set of field measurements.

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Transformation of wave height distribution

A least squares method to separate the incident and reflected spectra from the measured co-existing spectra is presented. This method requires a simultaneous measurement of the waves at three positions in the flume which are in reasonable proximity to each other and are on a line parallel to the direction of wave propagation. Experimental investigations have shown that there is good agreement between the incident spectra calculated by the least squares method and the incident spectra measured concurrently in a side channel.

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The Measurement of Incident and Reflected Spectra Using a Least squares Method

: One use of spectral analysis of time series is to determine if two different time series are realizations from the same process This thesis develops the theory behind Krishnaiah and Schuurmann's theoretical work reported in their report Approximations to the Distributions of the Traces of Complex Multivariate Beta and F Matrices We take the trace of a test statistic calculated from the spectral density matrices of the time series and test it The thesis applies the theory to two small sample simulations (Author)

Spectral Analysis of Time Series.

Evolution of Design Method Against Random Waves Statistical Properties and Spectral of Sea Waves Transformation and Deformation of Random Sea Waves Design of Breakwaters Design of Coastal Dikes and Seawalls Probabilistic Design of Harbor Facilities Harbor Tranquility and Vessel Mooring Hydraulic Model Tests with Random Waves Theoretical Description of Random Sea Waves Statistical Theory of Irregular Waves Techniques of Random Wave Analysis 2D Computation of Wave Transformation with Random Breaking and Nearshore Currents Statistical Analysis of Extreme Waves Prediction and Control of Beach Deformation Processes.

Random seas and design of maritime structures

Random Seas and Design of Maritime Structures

A technique to resolve the incident and reflected waves from the records of composite waves is presented. It is applicable to both regular and irregular trains of waves. Two simultaneous wave records are taken at adjacent locations, and all the amplitudes of Fourier components are analyzed by the FFT technique. The amplitudes of incident and reflected wave components are estimated from the Fourier components, and the incident and reflected wave spectra are constructed by smoothing the estimated periodograms. The wave resolution is effective in the range outside the condition of the gauge spacing being even integer of half wavelength. The ratio of incident and reflected wave energies in the effective resolution range is employed in estimating the overall reflection coefficient. The incident and reflected wave heights are estimated from the composite wave heights by energy consideration.

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Estimation of incident and reflected waves in random wave experiments

A proposal is made for new wave pressure formulae, which can be applied for the whole ranges of wave action from nonbreaking to postbreaking waves with smooth transition between them. The design wave height is specified as the maximum wave height possible at the site of breakwater. The new formulae as well as the existing formulae of Hiroi, Sainflou, and Minikin have been calibrated with the cases of 21 slidings and 13 nonslidings of the upright sections of prototype breakwaters. The calibration establishes that the new formulae are the most accurate ones.

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New wave pressure formulae for composite breakwaters

A theoretical model of irregular wave breaking and dissipation is developed. The setup of irregular waves is computed by means of radiation stress in association with the above wave breaking model....

Yoshimi Goda

Papers

Random Seas and Design of Maritime Structures

Estimation of incident and reflected waves in random wave experiments

New wave pressure formulae for composite breakwaters

Irregular Wave Deformation in the Surf Zone

A synthesis of breaker indices