Showing papers in "Fashion & Textile Research Journal in 2018"
TL;DR: Clothing, as a connection body in which the human body and the mechanical environment are combined with each other, is reestablished as a product of variable body that can embody an integrated value that includes various characteristics and can be diversified appropriately in any circumstance.
Abstract: This study considers application types and meanings of fashion engineering by analyzing CuteCircuit. The conclusions of this study are as follows. The application type of fashion engineering shown in CuteCircuit is first, electronic fashion, which attaches LED or WL on the surface of clothes to express the decorative function in clothes as optical light change, ultimately performing one-dimensional function. Second, interactive fashion is a medium in which clothing connects human beings with other human beings with sensors that can recognize the changes in tactile or movement with the wearer or with a light source that can visualize the emotional changes of the wearer. Third, scientific fashion has emerged as a new type of fashion in which new materials introduced in the field of engineering are fused with clothing to expand functionality and aesthetics. The meanings of fashion engineering in CuteCircuit is first, trying to conceptualize a new beauty as an open fashion that can freely change with the creation of a dual beauty by combining analog and digital sensibility. Second is the external representation of human psychological change or emotional exchange, which helps to form a consensus by understanding and exchanging emotions of different people. Third, reorganization of apparel pursuing integrated value appeared. Clothing, as a connection body in which the human body and the mechanical environment are combined with each other, is reestablished as a product of variable body that can embody an integrated value that includes various characteristics and can be diversified appropriately in any circumstance.
11 citations
8 citations
8 citations
8 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors have studied and analyzed the problems faced by hereditary communities and ethnic designers in small and medium scale enterprise sector from two emerging economies, namely Ethiopia and Ukraine.
Abstract: The aim of the research study is to carve sustainable business strategies for the fashion communities in Ethiopia and Ukraine which are suffering today due to ever-increasing share of fast fashion consumerism. Fashion houses and international brands propagandize sustainability and consumption for better consumer base, where as originally sustainable local-based craftsmen still stay in the shade. Four communities/local designers are selected from the countries through the method of purposive sampling. Qualitative analysis is the basis of the research as we performed personal interviews and in-depth analysis of the communities to diagnose the problems and subsequently devise the solutions. In this research, we have studied and analyzed the problems faced by hereditary communities and ethnic designers in small and medium scale enterprise sector from two emerging economies. After the grounding the difficulties faced we advised strategies for sustainable future growth to the companies. The current academic literature on small and medium scale enterprises highlights the problems and solutions for general industry sectors. This paper brings attention to fashion communities and designers who promote national heritage and are struggling to survive in emerging economies due to industrialization and globalization. Moreover the comparison of the two geographies is unique in nature.
8 citations
5 citations
TL;DR: The results show customers’ high interest in textile and the popularization of newborn clothing made of eco-friendly textiles and the results show little interest in eco- friendly or safety certification marks despite the significant interest in the functionality and safety of textiles.
Abstract: This study investigates customers’ possession, usage, and satisfaction of newborn clothing, and analyzes their satisfaction with textiles of baenaet jeogori (the most basic Korean item of newborn clothing). The survey was conducted on 102 mothers with infants under 24 months old. The baenaet jeogori was the most commonly possessed item, followed by swaddling blanket, shirt and pants set, bodysuit, one-piece, and baenaet gown. About 52.6% of respondents used the swaddling blanket all day, 52% of respondents possessed 4-6 baenaet jeogories, and most respondents used the baenaet jeogori 4 weeks or more. Two most important selection criteria of the baenaet jeogori were textiles and season suitability which are closely related to functionality. Respondents were satisfied with the baenaet jeogori; however, there are a few problems with difficulty in putting and taking off as well as textiles. Most baenaet jeogories chosen by respondents were made of cotton and 68.8% of them were made of eco-friendly textiles. Respondents were dissatisfied with textiles when they are unsuitable for the season. Eco-friendly textiles were chosen for baby health and eco-friendliness, and respondents were satisfied with a baenaet jeogori made of eco-friendly textiles in general. The results show customers’ high interest in textiles and the popularization of newborn clothing made of eco-friendly textiles. There was little interest in eco-friendly or safety certification marks despite the significant interest in the functionality and safety of textiles. Therefore, correct information on those certification marks is required.
5 citations
5 citations
TL;DR: The results found that according to the analysis of women’s sportswear tight tops by brand, polyester, nylon and polyurethane were most used, and elastic, breathable and quick-dry, sweat absorbent products were commonly found.
Abstract: This study investigated the current production of women’s sportswear tights among a total of 813 yoga, gym and training tights on the market to provide basic data for the development of women’s sportswear tight tops. The results found the following: First, according to the analysis of women’s sportswear tight tops by brand, polyester, nylon and polyurethane were most used. In addition, elastic, breathable and quick-dry, sweat absorbent products were commonly found. In terms of design, crew neck and sleeveless styles were popular. In addition, mesh was frequently applied to the top of the chest and upper part of the back. The size was mostly marked in S, M and L, and the size range was very large by brand. For color, achromatic color was most common. In terms of price, ‘KRW 50,000-100,000’ was frequently found. Second, yoga tights were compared to gym & training wear. In the case of yoga tights, elastic, various products in diverse design (e.g., crew neck, sleeveless, long sleeve, etc.) and colors (e.g., red, black, etc.) made of breathable and waterabsorbing fabric were most produced. In particular, a combination of mesh materials was common. In gym and training wear, crew neck and short-sleeve styles in achromatic color made of elastic, breathable and quick-dry, seat absorbing fabric were most produced.
4 citations
TL;DR: It is anticipated that the fitness wear will have a proper fit to the body shape of elderly people in South Korea as well as it can increase muscle efficiency to promote physical capability and healthy life for senior people.
Abstract: The objective of this study is to investigate the market of fitness compression wear as well as to design an optimal fitness compression wear by analyzing the muscle and movement characteristics of the elderly women in Korea. In this regard, research for functional garments is needed to increase muscle activity of elderly people during physical exercise. Firstly, we investigated the brand, design, size, material, and pattern of fitness wear based on the market survey. Secondly, we identified preference, evaluation items, evaluation method, and pattern design method based on the literature review. Finally, in addition, the motion type, range, angle to improve the muscle strength of the elderly were investigated and the maximum muscle strengths of each motion were analyzed by using 2007 Size Korea data (n = 386). It is also designed for muscle fatigue through exercise and rapid fatigue recovery after exercise. The evaluation methods for fitness compression wear were classified as motor functionality, physiological comfort, pattern and material suitability evaluations. The muscle strength at leg (pushing force) and waist (lifting force) of the ages of 60 to 69 years old showed 239.3 N and 274.5 N, respectively, which were the lowest forces compared to younger age groups. By applying these results to the design process of fitness wear, it is anticipated that the fitness wear will have a proper fit to the body shape of elderly people in South Korea as well as it can increase muscle efficiency to promote physical capability and healthy life for senior people.
3 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the effect of laccase-catalyzed coloration on washing fastness was evaluated and compared with the synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe).
Abstract: This study aim is to provide new coloration method by laccase-catalyzation on natural phenolic dyeing process. In this study, silk was dyed with black tea, which is one of polyphenolic dye, extracted in distilled water. The dyed samples were catalyzed by laccase as the eco-friendly mordanting process. To optimize the conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration, conditions were varied by different mordanting methods (one-bath, two-bath), temperature and treatment time. The dye affinity in terms of the value of K/S, L*, a*, b*, and H, V, C was measured by Computer Color Matching System (CCM, CM-2600d, Spectra Magic NX, Korea). The effect of laccase-catalyzed coloration on washing fastness was evaluated and compared with the synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). As the result of color analysis of dyed silk, the optimum conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration were determined to post-mordanting by one-bath at 50 o C for 3 hours. Under the optimum laccase-catalyzed conditions, the dyed silk was shown the color of yellowish-red. After laccase-catalyzed coloration on the dyed silk, the improvement of washing fastness was obtained compared with mordanted silk by synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that the effective enzymatic mordanting method by laccase for phenolic natural dyeing with vivid color and good fastness.
TL;DR: In this article, the authors analyzed the colors of the costumes in the film "The Handmaiden" and provided an adjective image surveyed from the standpoint of the audience in order to find if the intended story of the director is delivered to the audience through costume colors.
Abstract: This study investigated the colors of the costumes in the film ‘The Handmaiden’. The author categorized and examined the hue and tone of the main character's costume as well as provided an adjective image surveyed from the standpoint of the audience in order find if the intended story of the director is delivered to the audience through costume colors. Study method analyzed 25 set costume colors of the heroine ‘Hideko’. The color analysis were analyzed by capturing DVD images that showed the costume of ‘Hideko’. The colors of costumes were analyzed by recognition through the eyes based on the IRI, Hue, and Tone 120. In addition, the analysis of the IRI adjectives image were conducted through the survey. Costume hue of the heroine ‘Hideko’ in the film ‘The Handmaiden’ were black, yellow, white, green, and purple. There were many colorful costumes in the movie. Tones were very pale, deep, bright, vivid, strong, and pale. Chroma were evenly distributed and brightness were distributed in the order high, middle, and low. They were interpreted as the intention of showing the situation and psychology of ‘Hideko’ in various scenes of the film through various costume colors. Color images of the film ‘The Handmaiden’ were classified as feminine, mature, classy, delicate, classic, noble, polished, refined, showy, western, mellow, pure, and decorative.
TL;DR: In this article, the authors explored consumer purchasing behavior of the global as well as domestic fast fashion brands sold in Korea and suggested marketing strategies for the brands in Korea, and found four themes from these in-depth interviews: 1) demand of product glocalization which considers both globalization and localization for better style, quality, and assortment plan.
Abstract: Global fast fashion brands have been popular and most of them have entered the Korean market. With their success, Korean apparel companies launched domestic fast fashion brands; however, recently they have become fiercely competitive, and consumers are demanding better design and quality and cheaper prices than before. The purpose of this study is to explore consumer purchasing behavior of the global as well as domestic fast fashion brands sold in Korea and to suggest marketing strategies for the brands sold in Korea. The study includes interviewing 61 Korean consumers to ask about their purchasing behavior and experiences. This study found four themes from these in-depth interviews: 1) demand of product glocalization which considers both globalization and localization for better style, quality, and assortment plan, 2) satisfaction with the reasonable price range of fast fashion brands but dissatisfaction with price discrimination among countries, 3) importance of easy, comfortable, and convenient accessibility to fast fashion brands, and 4) preference for good brand reputation related to corporate social responsibility(CSR) and nationality. From these four themes, this study developed the four elements of the marketing mix: product, price, accessibility, and reputation to adapt to a new marketing environment that emphasizes the development of information technology, consumer-centric marketing, and corporate ethics. The findings of this research could contribute useful information to both global and domestic fashion companies as well as consumers.
TL;DR: In this article, 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics were obtained using 3D printing based on FDM using a thermoplactic polyurethane(TPU) filaments and the results of the primary hand value test were confirmed to be applicable to women's summer garments.
Abstract: In this study, fused deposition modellig(FDM) 3D printing technology has been applied directly to polyester voil fabric to produce 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics. A stereolithograpy(STL) file with a lace type 3D modelling under the various thickness were prepared and transformed into a g-code file using a g-code generator. The extrusion conditions for FDM 3D printing were controlled by 50mm/s of nozzle speed, 235 o C of nozzle temperature, 40 o C of heating bed temperature. 3D printed lace/voil composite fabriscs manufactured by 3D printing based on FDM using a thermoplactic polyurethane(TPU) filaments were obtained. To evaluate the mechanical properties and washability of the fabricated 3D printed lace/voil composite fabric, KES-FB system test, washing fastness test and dry cleaning resistance test were conducted. As 3D printing thickness increased, KOSHI, NUMERI, and FUKURAMI of 3D printed lace/voil composite fabric increased. From the results of the primary hand value test, 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics were confirmed to be applicable to women's summer garments. As a result of the washability and dry cleaning resistance test of the 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics, all samples were graded 4-5.
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors investigated the effects of cross-over shopping orientation, perception of app attributes, and flow on app loyalty that compared Korean and Chinese consumers, and found that the cross over shopping orientation affected perception of App attributes that included Review/Information, Design, Response and Product.
Abstract: Since 2009, consumers could access a new shopping channel called ‘mobile shopping’ with the generalization of smartphones. Mobile shopping (based on wireless communication technology), emphasizes convenience differentiated from internet shopping. A recent report introduced fashion products as powerful global drivers for mobile shopping sales. Korea and China have the highest percentage of consumer mobile shopping experiences compared to other countries. This study investigates the effects of cross-over shopping orientation, perception of app attributes, and flow on app loyalty that compared Korean and Chinese consumers. We obtained 652 usable questionnaires from two local college students; subsequently, data were analyzed by using factor analysis, Cronbach’s alpha, and regression analysis using SPSS 21.0 Package. The study results showed that the cross-over shopping orientation affected perception of app attributes that included Review/Information, Design, Response and Product. Product only affected Flow, which reflected a high similarity between Korean and Chinese consumers. However, Korean and Chinese consumers showed remarkable differences in the factors related to app loyalty. Therefore, the results indicate that retailers of fashion products have developed strategies to improve mobile sales and increase the app loyalty of cross-over shopping orientation consumers.
TL;DR: The authors conducted a qualitative research based on interviews with school teachers and instructors operating external activities about how the management of one's own appearance influence the changes in subjective happiness and self-esteem by focusing on maladjusted students of two alternative schools and ordinary middle and high schools in Gyeongsangnam-do province.
Abstract: This study conducted a qualitative research based on interviews with school teachers and instructors operating external activities about how the management of one’s own appearance influence the changes in subjective happiness and self-esteem by focusing on maladjusted students of two alternative schools and ordinary middle and high schools in Gyeongsangnam-do province. Happiness refers to a positive emotion that can be felt continuously throughout life such as life satisfaction, good experience, and positive way of thinking. The sense of happiness is the satisfaction that one feels by interpreting and evaluating his or her experience in a positive way and can be defined as the positive emotions that can be felt when one perceives and uses the strengths and resources that he or she has. Although the self-esteem is formed, changed, and developed throughout life, the self-awareness and self-evaluation develop more actively than other stages of development particularly in adolescence, and the adolescents with low self-esteem are faced with more serious behavioral, scholastic, and psychological issues. I hope the results of this study not only help current adolescents at risk to improve their self-esteem but also become a chance to see the issue of adolescents at risk as a part of social issue instead of limiting the issue as personal or domestic issue by expanding the application scope of the results to adolescents in middle schools and high schools who have the potential of going astray in order to approach the issue on the level of the entire society.
TL;DR: Wang et al. as discussed by the authors explored Chanel jacket's designs from 2001 S/S to 2016-17 F/W, and collected designs from Samsung Design Net and Vogue.
Abstract: This study investigated the transformation of the Chanel jacket by looking at clothing design and constructional components. This study explored Chanel jacket's designs from 2001 S/S to 2016-17 F/W, and collected designs from Samsung Design Net and Vogue. The study used 690 designs with the following results. First, in the silhouette of the Chanel jacket, straight silhouette and hourglass silhouette had the most; in addition, in the length, hip line and under hip line were in order. Second, in case of collar and neckline, the form of a non-collar was the most and revealed the persistence of round neckline which is the basic style of a Chanel jacket. Third, in the shape of sleeves, the loose-fit straight sleeves, wide sleeves, and cocoon sleeves appeared most often. In method of closure, button, zipper were in order, and snaps or without closure appeared. Fourth, in the form of braids, various forms such as twisted yarns, leashes, or lace were used, and patch pockets were mainly used in pockets. Chanel maintains its original design by using various methods. Chanel tried to improve activity and functionality through silhouettes, lengths, necklines, and sleeves. The unchanging expression of the world of Chanel will continue to display and inherit future value. This study can provide Chanel’s unique characteristics and new ideas that can transform their origins for jacket design.