https://www.jidonline.org/article/S0022-202X(15)32393-9/pdf

Stratum Corneum Defensive Functions: An Integrated View

Degradation of Corneodesmosome Proteins by Two Serine Proteases of the Kallikrein Family, SCTE/KLK5/hK5 and SCCE/KLK7/hK7

This review describes the use of some natural products in cosmetic preparations, due to their low mammalian toxicity, with a brief description of the major use, plant parts used, the actives responsible for effect and the benefits of such products. Their use in skin care; such as dryness, eczema, acne, free-radical scavenging, antiinflammatory, antiaging and skin protection effects are explained, and also the use in hair care as hair growth stimulants, hair colorants, and for hair and scalp complaints such as dandruff. Essential oils when incorporated into finished products impart many benefits such as a pleasant aroma in perfumery, shine or conditioning effects in hair care products, emolliency and improving the elasticity of the skin.

Plants used in cosmetics

Water is absolutely essential for the normal functioning of the skin and especially its outer layer, the stratum corneum (SC). Loss of water from the skin must be carefully regulated, a function dependent on the complex nature of the SC. The retention of water in the SC is dependent on two major components: (1) the presence of natural hygroscopic agents within the corneocytes (collectively referred to as natural moisturizing factor) and (2) the SC intercellular lipids orderly arranged to form a barrier to transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The water content of the SC is necessary for proper SC maturation and skin desquamation. Increased TEWL impairs enzymatic functions required for normal desquamation resulting in the visible appearance of dry, flaky skin. There have been recent discoveries regarding the complex mechanisms of skin hydration. In particular, it has been discovered that glycerol, a well-known cosmetic ingredient, exists in the SC as a natural endogenous humectant. Hyaluronan, which has been regarded mainly as dermal component, is found in the epidermis and is important for maintaining normal SC structure and epidermal barrier function. More importantly, the discovery of the existence of the water-transporting protein aquaporin-3 in the viable epidermis and the presence of tight junction structures at the junction between the stratum granulosum and SC have brought new insights into the mechanisms of skin water distribution and barrier function.

Skin hydration: a review on its molecular mechanisms

Cell death by cornification.

Dandruff is a major problem, yet little is known about the underlying mechanism and subsequent biochemical changes occurring in the scalp skin that lead to its manifestation. The characteristic flaking and scaling of the scalp experienced by dandruff sufferers suggests, similar to the changes classically seen in xerosis, that the desquamation process is impaired. We initiated studies to quantify the biochemical nature of the stratum corneum in the scalp of healthy individuals and dandruff sufferers. Total amounts and relative ratios of stratum corneum lipids species were analysed in scalp stratum corneum samples collected during studies conducted in the UK and Thailand in order to examine ethnic differences. In both populations, dandruff was associated with a dramatic decrease in free lipid levels, with significant decreases in ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol. Detailed sub-analysis of the major ceramide species within the total ceramide fraction revealed a decrease in ceramide 1 and increased proportions of ceramide 6i and 6ii. In a separate study, we demonstrated that dandruff sufferers show both an elevated blood flow and an increased reported incidence of itch in response to histamine topically applied to the scalp compared with no-dandruff controls. Taken together these two studies indicate that the quality and resilience of the epidermal water barrier is impaired in the scalp of dandruff sufferers. We propose that the perturbed barrier leaves dandruff sufferers more prone to the adverse effects of microbial and fungal toxins, and environmental pollutants, thus perpetuating their impaired barrier.

Dandruff: a condition characterized by decreased levels of intercellular lipids in scalp stratum corneum and impaired barrier function

Exposure to a dry environment leads to depletion of water from the peripheral stratum corneum layers in a process dependent on the relative humidity (RH) and the intrinsic properties of the tissue. We hypothesized that by modulating the water content of the stratum corneum in the surface layers, RH effects the rate of desquamation by modulating the activity of the desquamatory enzymes, and specifically stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE). Using a novel air interface in vitro desquamatory model, we demonstrated RH-dependent corneocyte release with desquamatory rates decreasing below 80% RH. Application of 10% glycerol or a glycerol-containing moisturizing lotion further increased desquamation, even in humid conditions, demonstrating that water was the rate-limiting factor in the final stages of desquamation. Furthermore, even in humid conditions desquamation was sub-maximal. In situ stratum corneum SCCE activity showed a dependence on RH: activity was significantly higher at 100% than at 44% RH. Further increases in SCCE activity were induced by applying a 10% glycerol solution. Since SCCE, a water-requiring enzyme, must function in the water-depleted outer stratum corneum, we sought to determine whether this enzyme has a tolerance to lowered water activity. Using concentrated sucrose solutions to lower water activity, we analysed the activity of recombinant SCCE and compared it to that of trypsin and chymotrypsin. SCCE activity demonstrated a tolerance to water restriction, and this may be an adaptation to maintain enzyme activity even within the water-depleted stratum corneum intercellular space. Overall these findings support the concept that in the upper stratum corneum, RH modulates desquamation by its effect upon SCCE activity, and possibly other desquamatory hydrolases. In addition, SCCE may be adapted to function in the water-restricted stratum corneum intercellular space.

Alison Moore

Papers

Dandruff: a condition characterized by decreased levels of intercellular lipids in scalp stratum corneum and impaired barrier function

Water modulation of stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme activity and desquamation.

Increased scalp skin lipids in response to antidandruff treatment containing zinc pyrithione