This review describes the use of some natural products in cosmetic preparations, due to their low mammalian toxicity, with a brief description of the major use, plant parts used, the actives responsible for effect and the benefits of such products. Their use in skin care; such as dryness, eczema, acne, free-radical scavenging, antiinflammatory, antiaging and skin protection effects are explained, and also the use in hair care as hair growth stimulants, hair colorants, and for hair and scalp complaints such as dandruff. Essential oils when incorporated into finished products impart many benefits such as a pleasant aroma in perfumery, shine or conditioning effects in hair care products, emolliency and improving the elasticity of the skin.

Plants used in cosmetics

https://www.cell.com/trends/microbiology/pdf/S0966-842X(13)00199-6.pdf

Structure and function of the human skin microbiome

Seborrheic Dermatitis (SD) and dandruff are of a continuous spectrum of the same disease that affects the seborrheic areas of the body. Dandruff is restricted to the scalp, and involves itchy, flaking skin without visible inflammation. SD can affect the scalp as well as other seborrheic areas, and involves itchy and flaking or scaling skin, inflammation and pruritus. Various intrinsic and environmental factors, such as sebaceous secretions, skin surface fungal colonization, individual susceptibility, and interactions between these factors, all contribute to the pathogenesis of SD and dandruff. In this review, we summarize the current knowledge on SD and dandruff, including epidemiology, burden of disease, clinical presentations and diagnosis, treatment, genetic studies in humans and animal models, and predisposing factors. Genetic and biochemical studies and investigations in animal models provide further insight on the pathophysiology and strategies for better treatment.

/pdf/seborrheic-dermatitis-and-dandruff-a-comprehensive-review-3u39ov12ux.pdf

Seborrheic Dermatitis and Dandruff: A Comprehensive Review.

Malassezia yeasts are commensals of normal human skin, but also cause pityriasis versicolor, seborrhoeic dermatitis and evidence is accumulating that they play a significant role in atopic eczema/dermatitis syndrome (AEDS; formerly atopic dermatitis). The taxonomy of the genus has changed considerably and is likely to change more in the future. Our understanding of the interaction between Malassezia and the host demonstrates that it has the paradoxical ability to both stimulate and suppress the immune response directed against it and there is a fine balance in its existence at the interface between commensalism and pathogenicity.

/pdf/update-on-the-genus-malassezia-6cvfmnqoaa.pdf

Update on the genus Malassezia

Racial (ethnic) differences in skin properties may explain racial disparities seen in dermatologic disorders and provide insight into appropriate differences in the management of these disorders. However, racial differences in skin have been minimally investigated by objective methods and the data are often contradictory. Objective methods studied include transepidermal water loss (TEWL), water content (WC), corneocyte variability, blood vessel reactivity, elastic recovery/extensibility, pH gradient, lipid content, surface microflora, microscopic evaluation of mast cell granules, and confocal microscopy. The majority of the evidence (six out of eight studies) indicates that TEWL is greater in Black skin compared with White skin. TEWL measurements of Asian skin are inconclusive as they have been found to be equal to Black skin and greater than Caucasian skin, equal to Caucasian skin, and less than all other ethnic groups in different studies. Racial differences in WC, as measured by resistance, capacitance, conductance and impedance, are also inconclusive as the data are contradictory. While the evidence regarding corneocyte desquamation is minimal, one clinically provocative observation is that Blacks have a 2.5 times greater spontaneous desquamation rate compared with Caucasians and Asians, possibly accounting for an increased frequency of xerosis seen clinically in Blacks. With regards to blood vessel reactivity, studies can not be compared to each other because each uses different vasoactive substances. However, each study, except for one study comparing Hispanics and Whites, and another comparing Japanese and German women, reveal some degree of racial variation in blood vessel reactivity. It has been demonstrated that the pH of Black skin is less than White skin; however, the studies that have demonstrated this have done so under different skin conditions and on different anatomic sites. Racial differences in lipid content are inconclusive. Additionally, there is insufficient and conflicting evidence to make conclusions regarding racial differences in skin biomechanics and skin microflora. Microscopic evaluation reveals that Black skin contains larger mast cell granules, and differences in stuctural properties and enzymes of mast cells compared with White skin, possibly accounting for differences in pruritus experienced by the individuals of these racial groups. There exists substantial evidence to support that Black skin has a higher TEWL, variable blood vessel reactivity, decreased skin surface pH, and larger mast cell granules compared with White skin. Although some deductions have been made about Asian and Hispanic skin, further evaluation needs to be done. Differences in WC, corneocyte desquamation, elastic recovery/extensibility, lipid content and skin microflora, although statistically significant, are inconclusive.

Racial (ethnic) differences in skin properties: the objective data.

Dandruff is a major problem, yet little is known about the underlying mechanism and subsequent biochemical changes occurring in the scalp skin that lead to its manifestation. The characteristic flaking and scaling of the scalp experienced by dandruff sufferers suggests, similar to the changes classically seen in xerosis, that the desquamation process is impaired. We initiated studies to quantify the biochemical nature of the stratum corneum in the scalp of healthy individuals and dandruff sufferers. Total amounts and relative ratios of stratum corneum lipids species were analysed in scalp stratum corneum samples collected during studies conducted in the UK and Thailand in order to examine ethnic differences. In both populations, dandruff was associated with a dramatic decrease in free lipid levels, with significant decreases in ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol. Detailed sub-analysis of the major ceramide species within the total ceramide fraction revealed a decrease in ceramide 1 and increased proportions of ceramide 6i and 6ii. In a separate study, we demonstrated that dandruff sufferers show both an elevated blood flow and an increased reported incidence of itch in response to histamine topically applied to the scalp compared with no-dandruff controls. Taken together these two studies indicate that the quality and resilience of the epidermal water barrier is impaired in the scalp of dandruff sufferers. We propose that the perturbed barrier leaves dandruff sufferers more prone to the adverse effects of microbial and fungal toxins, and environmental pollutants, thus perpetuating their impaired barrier.

C R Harding

Papers

Dandruff: a condition characterized by decreased levels of intercellular lipids in scalp stratum corneum and impaired barrier function