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Showing papers by "George F. Carrier published in 1958"


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors investigated the behavior of a wave as it climbs a sloping beach and obtained explicit solutions of the equations of the non-linear inviscid shallow-water theory for several physically interesting wave-forms.
Abstract: In this paper, we investigate the behaviour of a wave as it climbs a sloping beach. Explicit solutions of the equations of the non-linear inviscid shallow-water theory are obtained for several physically interesting wave-forms. In particular it is shown that waves can climb a sloping beach without breaking. Formulae for the motions of the instantaneous shoreline as well as the time histories of specific wave-forms are presented.

692 citations