Theories of the biaxial tensile properties, the uniaxial tensile properties, and the shear-deformation properties of plain-weave fabrics are presented in a general form, a simplified stereo-model of the structure of plain-weave fabrics being used throughout these theories. In the first part of this series, the biaxial tensile-deformation theory is presented with the aid of the model, and the forces required to stretch the fabric along the warp and weft directions at the same time are theoretically calculated from the properties of yarns and from the structure of the fabrics. In this biaxial theory, both warp and weft yarns are assumed to be perfectly flexible, and the forces caused by yarn-bending are ignored. The compressibility of the yarn under the action of a lateral compressive force is also introduced into the theory, and it is shown that the compressive properties of yarns have a great influence on the tensile properties of the fabrics.

3—the finite-deformation theory of plain-weave fabrics part i: the biaxial-deformation theory

https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00730294/document

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After the performance of clothing fabric in use has been satisfied to some extent, consumers seek better-quality, that is, more comfortable, fabrics. Fabric performance in relation to ‘better fitting to the human body’ is an essential requirement of clothing materials. From the mechanical-comfort viewpoint, textile producers and consumers have evaluated this kind of fabric performance by a subjective method, called handle judgement. For the engineering design of the fabric performance with regard to fabric handle, this subjective method must be analysed to explain what the fabric handle is and how it is judged. In this paper, recent developments in the analysis and standardization of fabric handle, mainly used by experts in textile mills, are first introduced, and then the development of the objective-evaluation system of fabric handle based on fundamental fabric mechanical properties is described. This is a type of expert system, and the translation software from the fabric mechanical data to handle has ...

Fabric Performance in Clothing and Clothing Manufacture

Textiles as clothing material must fit the human body and senses. This fitting is an important performance of the textiles besides the utility performance of textiles such as fabric strength. For many years, the performance concerning this fitness has been evaluated subjectively by hand judgement. The fabric property judged in such a way is called fabric handle. Instead of the subjective method, the objective evaluation system of fabric handle has been developed. The system is introduced firstly. In this objective method, the handle is evaluated based on the fabric mechanical and surface properties measured by the KESF instrument. The mechanical parameters of fabric measured by the instrument are useful not only for the fabric handle evaluation but also for textile and apparel engineering through the direct use of the parameters. The applications of the objective measurement of fabric handle and properties to textile and apparel engineering are introduced.

Objective measurement of fabric mechanical property and quality:: its application to textile and clothing manufacturing

In this paper, drape coefficients and mechanical properties of 138 samples of woven fabrics are measured, and the relation between them is analyzed by means of residual-regression method. A linear equation by which the drape coefficient can be calculated from the mechanical properties is presented.As a result, it is shown that the value given by 3√ is most related with the drape coefficient, where B is bending rigidity (g•cm2/cm), W weight per unit area of fabric (mg/cm2).Next, the anisotropy in the bending property of fabric is examined, and we get an equation for the drape coefficient, by means of multiple regression method; Dn; =5.1+115.03√ +131.13√ +1.23√ where B90; is bending rigidity (g•cm2/cm) along warps, B0; along wefts, and B45; in bias directions.Finally, the stability of the drape shape is examined. It is found that as the hysteresis in fabric shearing and bending is large, the instability in the drape coefficient increases. From this fact, the experimental technique of drape testing is also discussed.

Relation between Drape Coefficients and Mechanical Properties of Fabrics

Fabric hand evaluation, previously applied to men's suiting, is used here to assess the touch or feel of nonwoven fabrics. In this method, fabric mechanical property parameters are converted by a f...

Masako Niwa

Papers

3—the finite-deformation theory of plain-weave fabrics part i: the biaxial-deformation theory

Fabric Performance in Clothing and Clothing Manufacture

Objective measurement of fabric mechanical property and quality:: its application to textile and clothing manufacturing

Relation between Drape Coefficients and Mechanical Properties of Fabrics

Objective Hand Measurement of Nonwoven Fabrics Part I : Development of the Equations