Atlas of global wave energy from 10 years of reanalysis and hindcast data

Shock-capturing Boussinesq-type model for nearshore wave processes

A distinct lens of marine sand, up to 90 cm thick, confined vertically by peat, is found in the upper fill of a closed freshwater back-barrier lagoon on the southeast Australian coast Coring of the deposit suggests it extends continuously up to 600 m inland and tapers landward rising to ~16 m above principle datum In places the sand is overlain by accumulations of organic-rich silt that contain charophytes, indicating re-estab- lishment of lagoon conditions Hypotheses considered for the deposition of the sandsheet are higher Holocene sea level, storms and tsunami Ground-penetrating radar transects of the seaward dune system suggest a penecontemporaneous erosional contact between a series of truncated pre-event dunes and several small over- lying post-event dunes Dating the sandsheet was problematic but it is confined to the last 800 years The young age combined with a lack of associated beach deposits and evidence of wave scouring suggest that a higher sea- level hypothesis is unlikely This sand lens is attributed to a large-scale washover event from the southeast Based on comparisons with modern storm deposits from the same coast and sedimentological diagnostic crite- ria derived from studies of modern storm- and tsunami-deposited sandsheets, it is concluded that this sand deposit is the product of a short-lived, large-scale overwash event attributed to a late-Holocene tsunami

Large-scale washover sedimentation in a freshwater lagoon from the southeast Australian coast: sea-level change, tsunami or exceptionally large storm?

Assessment of wave energy resources in Hawaii

The giant tsunami that occurred in the Indian Ocean on 26th December 2004 draws attention to this natural phenomenon. The given course of lectures deals with the physics of the tsunami wave propagation from the source to the coast. Briefly, the geographical distribution of the tsunamis is described and physical mechanisms of their origin are discussed. Simplified robust formulas for the source parameters (dimension and height) are given for tsunamis of different origin. It is shown that the shallow-water theory is an adequate model to describe the tsunamis of the seismic origin; meanwhile for the tsunamis of the landslide or explosion origin (volcanoes, asteroid impact) various theories (from linear dispersive to nonlinear shallow-water equations) can be applied. The applicability of the existing theories to describe the tsunami wave propagation, refraction, transformation and climbing on the coast is demonstrated. Nonlinear-dispersive effects including the role of the solitons are discussed. The practical usage of the tsunami modeling for the tsunami forecasting and tsunami risk evaluation is described. The results of the numerical simulations of the two global tsunamis in the Indian Ocean induced by the catastrophic Krakatau eruption in 1883 and the strongest North Sumatra earthquake in 2004 are given.

/pdf/hydrodynamics-of-tsunami-waves-4h36050kdt.pdf

Hydrodynamics of Tsunami Waves

http://coastal.usc.edu/plynett/publications/Cheung_OE_Storm.pdf

Y.J.-M. Douyere

Papers

Modeling of storm-induced coastal flooding for emergency management