Showing papers in "International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology in 2023"
TL;DR: In this paper , the authors developed an environment-friendly finishing process for coloring and functionalizing fabrics using the extracts from aronia fruit (AF) and/or aronia leaf (AL).
Abstract: PurposeThe purpose of this study was to develop an environment-friendly finishing process for coloring and functionalizing fabrics using the extracts from aronia fruit (AF) and/or aronia leaf (AL).Design/methodology/approachColoring and functional compounds were extracted from both AF and AL to prepare dyeing and finishing agents for textiles. The bioactive compounds were identified, and their concentrations were determined by spectrophotometry and high-performance liquid chromatography. The extracts were then used to dye and finish natural fibers. The cotton and wool fabrics treated with AF, AL and a combination of AF + AL extracts were investigated in terms of coloring properties and functionalities, specifically antioxidant capacity and antibacterial property.FindingsAccording to the obtained results, AF extracts contained significant amounts of anthocyanins and phenols while AL extracts contained higher amounts of phenols with very low levels of anthocyanins. It was successfully demonstrated that the AF and AL extracts can be used to dye fabrics with good color properties. Moreover, textiles treated with aronia extracts inhibited the growth of gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria and exhibited antioxidant properties.Originality/valueAF extract showed superior coloring and functional properties compared to AL extract. However, the treatment solution containing both AF and AL extracts demonstrated significant synergic effects on the antibacterial and antioxidant properties of the treated fabrics.
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TL;DR: In this article , a human activity recognition (HAR) system was integrated into outdoor clothing, which can help protect users' health and safety (life) by notifying others.
Abstract: PurposeThe emergence of smart wearables using clothing as a technology platform is a significant milestone with considerable implications for industrial convergence, creating new value for fashion. This paper aimed to present a premeditated prototype to integrate a human activity recognition (HAR) system into outdoor clothing.Design/methodology/approachFor the development of wearable HAR (WHAR) clothing, this paper explored three subject areas: fashion design related to the structural feature of the clothing platform, electronics related to wearable circuits and modules design and graphic user interface design related to smartphone application development.FindingsFor WHAR functions in outdoor terrains, the coexistence of accelerometer–gyroscope sensing and distance-sensing could be practical to surpass the technological limitation of activity and posture recognition with gyro sensors highly depending on the changes of acceleration and angles.Research limitations/implicationsThrough the vital sign check and physical activity–change recognition function, this study's WHAR system allows users to check their health by themselves and avoid overwork. A quick rescue is possible manually and automatically in a dangerous situation by notifying others. Thus, it can help protect users' health and safety (life).Originality/valueThis study designed the modularization of HAR functions generally installed in indoor medical spaces. Through the approach, smart clothing–embracing WHAR systems optimized for health and safety care for outdoor environments was pursued to diversify expensive roles of clothing for technological applications.
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TL;DR: In this article , the influence of various factors on the adhesion strength of 3D printing materials and chiffon fabrics, and to develop an original design clothing prototype with an extended functionality that would be compatible with the specifics of the circular design.
Abstract: PurposeTo explore the influence of various factors on the adhesion strength of 3D printing materials and chiffon fabrics, and to develop an original design clothing prototype with an extended functionality that would be compatible with the specifics of the circular design.Design/methodology/approachFour different chiffon fabrics and four 3D printed materials were chosen as the research subjects to determine the influence of various factors on the adhesion strength and ductility. The uniaxial tensile test was used to determine pull-out force and the pull-out elongation from the interlayer.Findings3D printed TPU elements can be used to join clothing parts made from low-elasticity chiffon fabrics to improve wearing comfort. In order to comply with the circular economy concept, it is important to select such adhesion parameters of the 3D printed elements and the material system that would ensure wear comfort and withstand wear-level loads; and at the end of the life cycle of a garment, the 3D printed elements could be separated from the product and recycled.Originality/valueThe systems developed can be used to renew and repair products, adding originality, individual touch or additional decorative features, while extending the functional possibilities of clothing items in accordance with circular design principles.
TL;DR: Zhang et al. as mentioned in this paper presented a details-oriented virtual try-on network (DO-VTON), which allows synthesizing high-fidelity tryon images with preserved characteristics of target clothing.
Abstract: PurposeThe paper aims to transfer the item image of a given clothing product to a corresponding area of the user image. Existing classical methods suffer from unconstrained deformation of clothing and occlusion caused by hair or poses, which leads to loss of details in the try-on results. In this paper, the authors present a details-oriented virtual try-on network (DO-VTON), which allows synthesizing high-fidelity try-on images with preserved characteristics of target clothing.Design/methodology/approachThe proposed try-on network consists of three modules. The fashion parsing module (FPM) is designed to generate the parsing map of a reference person image. The geometric matching module (GMM) warps the input clothing and matches it with the torso area of the reference person guided by the parsing map. The try-on module (TOM) generates the final try-on image. In both FPM and TOM, attention mechanism is introduced to obtain sufficient features, which enhances the performance of characteristics preservation. In GMM, a two-stage coarse-to-fine training strategy with a grid regularization loss (GR loss) is employed to optimize the clothing warping.FindingsIn this paper, the authors propose a three-stage image-based virtual try-on network, DO-VTON, that aims to generate realistic try-on images with extensive characteristics preserved.Research limitations/implicationsThe authors’ proposed algorithm can provide a promising tool for image based virtual try-on.Practical implicationsThe authors’ proposed method is a technology for consumers to purchase favored clothes online and to reduce the return rate in e-commerce.Originality/valueTherefore, the authors’ proposed algorithm can provide a promising tool for image based virtual try-on.
TL;DR: In this article , a sports bra with cosmetic microcapsules was developed to support the breasts and provide an aesthetically upright and lifted posture by using 28-day period, and the results showed that the product provided a decrease in breast girth and increases skin moisture and nipple height after 28 days of regular use.
Abstract: PurposeThis study aims to develop a sports bra with cosmetic microcapsules that supports the breasts and provides an aesthetically upright and lifted posture by using 28 days period.Design/methodology/approachA fitting process was carried out on provided seamless sports bras to determine the criteria that have to be improved considering the desired properties. The new sports bras were produced after the pattern design was developed; cosmetic microcapsules were applied to some of the bras and some were used as a control group to compare the real cosmetic effects. Female subjects tried the newly developed sports bras in a 28-day wear trial. Measurements were taken at certain periods during the wear trials, and the obtained data were analyzed statistically.FindingsThe findings of this study determined that the product provides a decrease in breast girth and increases skin moisture and nipple height after 28 days of regular use due to the effect of cosmetic ingredients released from microcapsules. A great majority of subjects found the breast lifting and supporting property of the sports bra successful and were satisfied with the new shape of the subjects' breasts.Originality/valueFitting studies were carried out directly on the female body, and the designed and developed encapsulating type sports bra has been transformed into a cosmetic textile product that gains also cosmetic properties. The cosmetic effects of the bra were investigated with wear trials. On the other hand, the nipple height measure term was defined for the first time and added to the literature within the scope of the study.
TL;DR: In this article , the static puncture resistance of nonwovens impregnated by polyurethane is improved by using five concentration gradients, and the composite with filaments illustrates better mechanical resistance.
Abstract: PurposeThis paper aims to design a composite, aiming to improve the static puncture resistance through polyurethane impregnated treatment with five concentration gradients.Design/methodology/approachThe relationship between polyurethane concentration, the number of polyester nonwovens, component fiber type (filament or staple) and the static puncture resistance is explored respectively and elaborately.FindingsThis study provides a new perspective to design flexible composites with better static puncture resistance, feasible preparation process as well as low cost.Originality/valueThe results show that the static puncture resistance of nonwovens impregnated by polyurethane is improved obviously. Meanwhile the puncture strength-T of nonwovens increases first and then decreases with the increase of the number of layers, and the maximum puncture strength-T is found at 20 layers. Moreover, the composite with filaments illustrates better mechanical resistance.
TL;DR: In this article , a meso-scale material design method was proposed to construct a shape-adaptive composite for wearable sportswear, which takes into account body size changes that many individuals experience.
Abstract: PurposeConventional sportswear design does not take into account body size changes that many individuals experience (e.g. through pregnancy, puberty, menstruation, etc.). This paper aims to detail both the construction of a novel wearable shape-adaptive composite and a new meso-scale material design method, which enables the optimal creation of these structures.Design/methodology/approachThis work reports the development of a predictive computational model and a corresponding design tool, including results of a tensile testing protocol to validate their outputs. A mathematical model was developed to explore the geometric parameter space of a bi-stable composite system, which then feeds into an optimization design tool.FindingsThe authors found that it is possible to fabricate shape-adaptive composites via 3D printing bi-stable structures, and adhering them to a base textile. Experimental mechanical tensile testing showed good agreement with the predictive model in mid-range unit cell amplitude designs. To illustrate how the optimization design tool works this paper details two design examples, one for expected shape change during pregnancy and one for targeted compression for high performance swimwear. The optimized design parameters are shown to replicate the target parameters, however there is potential for further improvement with a lower stiffness base textile.Originality/valueAlthough there is a wealth of research on multi-stable mechanisms, there is a dearth of studies that apply these structures in the wearable composite space. Additionally, there is a need for design methods which leverage the structurally-programmable capabilities of multi-stable structures to create optimized, high-performance functional composites.
TL;DR: In this article, the structural features in the order of drafting were extracted as the input values for model training and four perceptual evaluation dimensions based on a priori knowledge were selected as output values, which were finally classified using a decision tree algorithm.
Abstract: PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to improve the efficiency of pattern-making for suit lapels in the apparel industry, to master the perceptual knowledge of suit lapels and to establish a mapping relationship between suit lapel styles and perceptual judgment.Design/methodology/approachIn this paper, notch lapel, peak lapel and shawl lapel are studied, and the authors extract the structural features in the order of drafting as the input values for model training. At the same time, after the expert screening, four perceptual evaluation dimensions based on a priori knowledge are selected as output values, which are finally classified using a decision tree algorithm.FindingsThe results show that different design parameters produce different perceptions of people's vision and, thus, different perceptual judgments. The decision tree model can effectively classify the perceptual judgment of the lapel shape.Originality/valueThe findings of this study help garment factories to provide optimal judgment of basic parameters before the production of a suit lapel and to improve the efficiency of the design.
TL;DR: In this article , a flexible piezoresistive pressure sensor which uses non-woven fabric as the flexible substrate and sliver nanowires (AgNWs) as the conductive materials was reported.
Abstract: PurposeIn this paper, a new flexible piezoresistive pressure sensor which uses non-woven fabric as the flexible substrate and sliver nanowires (AgNWs) as the conductive materials was reported.Design/methodology/approachThe compression test of the pressure sensors was carried out at different compression frequencies and found that the sensors had more than 5,000 times reusability at high frequency.FindingsWhen pressure sensors were applied to different parts of the human body, such as fingers, elbows, knees and throat, the sensors respond differently to different degrees of movement.Originality/valueThe proposed pressure sensor has broad application prospects in the human motion detection.
TL;DR: In this article , the effects of quilted mattress ticking fabric material (polyester, polypropylene, viscose, lyocell and their blends) on thermal comfort of the bedding system by objective and subjective measurements were investigated.
Abstract: PurposeSleep quality, a crucial parameter for health and life performance, is affected by mattress components; particularly mechanical and thermal comfort management ability of the upper layers. The aim of this study is to investigate effects of quilted mattress ticking fabric material (polyester, polypropylene, viscose, lyocell and their blends) on thermal comfort of the bedding system by objective and subjective measurements.Design/methodology/approachThe permeability (air and water vapour), heat transfer, water absorption, transfer and drying behaviours of knitted quilted fabrics which influence the thermal comfort of the bedding system were investigated. Subjective coolness and dampness evaluations were gathered by forearm and hand-palm tests to provide more realistic discussion in light of fabric characteristics.FindingsAccording to the results, polypropylene can be suggested for winter use with its higher air and water vapour permeabilities, lower thermal absorption and conductivities and warmer evaluation results. Lyocell can be suggested for summer use with also high permeabilities, higher thermal absorption and conductivities and cooler evaluation results. Polyester and viscose may also be considered for winter and summer in turn as a result of thermal feelings they create.Originality/valueIn addition to fabric thermal, permeability, liquid absorption and transfer properties, this study also includes subjective coolness and dampness evaluations which can provide realistic results regarding the coolness-to-touch and liquid transfer performances of mattress ticking fabrics. The relationships among objective and subjective data were investigated and the proposed subjective evaluation techniques can be used for different products.
TL;DR: In this paper , the authors used the thermal balance equation to predict the temperature ratings of infant bedding for all age groups based on the air temperature and the skin temperature of infants.
Abstract: PurposeThe purpose of this study is to determine the temperature ratings of infant bedding.Design/methodology/approachMathematical models were developed for predicting temperature ratings of infant bedding for all age groups based on the thermal balance equation. These models were validated by the published physiological data and the baby manikin tests. The air temperature was compared with the predicted temperature rating, and the skin temperature of infant or baby manikin was used to explain the validation results.FindingsThe models had higher prediction accuracy, especially for the infant bedding with uniformly distributed thermal insulation. The results showed that an increase of 1 clo in thermal insulation caused a decrease of 4.2–6.0 °C in temperature rating. The slope of the model reduced with the increasing month-age, indicating that an older infant had a lower temperature rating than a younger infant.Practical implicationsSuggestions were given for caregivers that younger infants ought to be covered with more bedding than adults; however, older infants were expected to require less bedding.Originality/valueThe outcomes provided scientific guidelines on the selection of bedding for infants at a particular room temperature to ensure the health and safety of infants.
TL;DR: In this article , the authors evaluated the impact of different fabrics that are used for seat cover on water vapor retention and determined the behavior of contact surface humidity with a 50 kg sandbag on the seat to mimic the deformation of the seat materials due to the seated person's weight.
Abstract: PurposeWater vapor trapped in the boundary layer between a person and the clothing creates discomfort and other unpleasant sensations. When that water vapor is prevented from leaving the clothing by external vapor barriers or impermeable layers, those psychophysical states are further exacerbated. One situation where that can be problematic is in office workplaces, and the seats that workers use for many hours every day. This study aims to evaluate the impact of different fabrics that are used for seat cover on water vapor retention.Design/methodology/approachThe authors' method determines the behavior of contact surface humidity with a 50 kg sandbag on the seat to mimic the deformation of the seat materials due to the seated person's weight. Thus, the maximum increase in relative humidity (RH) after humidification of the seat surface (ΔRH-max), the time required to reach the maximum value of humidity (t-max) and the time constant (TC) after humidity starts to fall were derived.FindingsOf the three different seat covers tested, the ΔRH-max of the wool were 7.3–8.8%, compared to 27.0–29.0% of the polyvinyl chloride (PVC), indicating more moisture absorption and transmission of the wool. The TC of the acrylic cover was 224–384 min compared to the 483–558 min of the PVC, which indicated a quick drying out feature of the acrylic.Originality/valueThe ΔRH-max, t-max and TC were all significantly correlated with the RH at the back thigh skin surface of the actual human participants.
TL;DR: In this paper , the potential of mycelium in the textile industry and its possible applications is examined and a review of the current research status in this respective field and reported the scope in the pure mycellium development.
Abstract: PurposeMycelium is an upcoming bio-based alternative material that has various applications in different industries. Mycelium materials used as composites, leather, construction materials and some are even available for commercial purposes. However, there was not much research found when it came to the application of mycelium as a textile alternative. The purpose of this paper is to examine the potential of mycelium in the textile industry and its possible applications.Design/methodology/approachThis review consolidates literature that refers the two major methods used in fungal mycelium production namely; as a composite and as a pure self-grown mycelium sheet. The study compared the current research status in this respective field and reported the scope in the pure mycelium development.FindingsThe results of the review reported that several research works are performed in composite production with different feedstock. The production methods and product development steps were well established for several applications from home utilities to construction materials. Whereas, in the case of self-grown mycelium sheet production only limited research works were found. Though the possibilities of engineered composite sheets are developed with various properties, research on self-grown pure mycelium sheets are at infant stage. Sensitive production methods, lower tensile, tearing, poor handle properties with brittle structure and non-uniformity in thickness are noted as limitations. Sustainable nature, self-grown three-dimensional nano-fibril network with porous structure are found to be advantageous.Originality/valueThe solid culture method was identified as a potential method to develop a sheet-like self-grown mycelium with different dimensions. The review results clearly show the lack of research in the direct application of self-grown pure mycelium area concerning feedstock material, fungal species selection and characterization of the developed product. Addressing the existing limitations will yield a sustainable textile material for fashion and textile industry with great potential.
TL;DR: Wang et al. as mentioned in this paper proposed a method with a 3D space vector and corresponding distance ease to characterize fitting garments and then used to construct personalized clothing for similar shape body.
Abstract: PurposeConsidering only two-dimensional (2D) ease allowance cannot fully reflect the three-dimensional (3D) relationship between the position of clothing and the human body. The purpose of this paper is to propose a method with a 3D space vector and corresponding distance ease to characterize fitting garments and then used to construct personalized clothing for similar shape body.Design/methodology/approachFirstly, a 3D scanner was used to obtain mannequin and fitted garment data, and 17 layers of cross-sections of the upper body were extracted. Then, 37 space vectors and corresponding space angles on each cross-section were obtained with the original point. Secondly, the detailed distance ease between the mannequin and garment was constructed due to the difference between garment vectors and body vectors. Thirdly, the distance ease mathematical models were achieved and used to calculate distance ease on a similar shape body. Additionally, the fit garment is constructed, and the garment pattern is altered by the geometric pattern alteration method.FindingsThe results show that 3D space vectors can explain the relationship between body skin and garment surface of the upper body properly. The distance ease is modeled by mathematic expressions and successfully used to make a new garment to fit a similar shape body.Originality/valueThe proposed method of constructing garments based on distance ease and 3D space vectors can create a fitted garment for a similar shape body effectively and accurately. It is useful for the personalized garment design and suitable for the manufacturing process.
TL;DR: In this article , the authors presented a fit prediction case study of virtual twins of women jacket and verified the proposed principles of clothing fit prediction based on parallel research of the flat patterns and its virtual 3D shapes.
Abstract: PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to present a fit prediction case study of virtual twins of women jacket. For this reason, several basic principles of clothes fit prediction were developed and verified.Design/methodology/approachTo develop the principles of fit prediction, the women's jacket sleeve was selected as the study object. The study objects were categorized into three types: the patterns and two virtual sleeves generating on full avatar from Clo3D and on dummy (arm partly removed). Through series of subjective and objective evaluation experiments, the relationship between the similar indexes of the patterns and the virtual sleeves was built, including fit criteria range, the categorization of the indexes in terms of its sensitiveness, and the linear regressions to predict several indexes of virtual sleeves after its pattern parameterization. The results obtained were verified in case study by the virtual and real sleeves generating.FindingsThe proposed principles of clothing fit prediction based on parallel research of the flat patterns and its virtual 3D shapes. The principles include the choosing of virtual twins of human body for virtual try-on, the establishing of indexes common schedule for patterns and virtual sleeves, the creation of criteria and its ranges for perfect fit and poor fit evaluation, and the application of existing relations between the patterns and the sleeves for predicting indexes responsible for fit.Research limitations/implicationsThe authors propose and verify the validity of the principles to predict several parameters of virtual 3D sleeve of women's jacket which are forming the level of fit. The result of this study can be used to convenient fit prediction and to find the misfit reasons.Practical implicationsThis study developed basic principles for predicting the fit of the clothing through the virtual simulation and the statistical analysis. Through studying the jacket sleeve, the several related ranges, the row of more sensitive indexes, and the equations were presented and verified, which certified the validity of proposed principles.Social implicationsThe results can effectively predict the sleeve fit before sewing, which reduce the time and materials cost and the operator's skill requirements.Originality/valueThe authors propose and verify the validity of the principles to predict several parameters of virtual 3D sleeve of women's jacket which form the level of fit. The result of this study can be used for convenient fit prediction and to find the misfit reasons.
TL;DR: In this article , an automatic 3D body measurement line generation method that reduces errors induced by diverse body shapes and incomplete scan areas was developed. But the method is not suitable for line generation in the case of incomplete scan data.
Abstract: PurposeThis research aimed to develop an automatic 3D body measurement line generation method that reduces errors induced by diverse body shapes and incomplete scan areas.Design/methodology/approachThree-dimensional body scan data from the 5th Size Korea database were used. Measurement extraction methods were developed for each measurement; chest girth, underbust girth, armscye girth and neck base girth.FindingsThe research showed that the method adopted in this study enhanced the accuracy of the scan measurements for various body shapes and incomplete scan data. The authors verified the accuracy of the developed methods for various body shapes by comparing the scan measurement against manual measurement.Originality/valueThe automatic 3D body measurement line generation algorithms developed for various human body shapes will improve the reliability and accuracy of 3D body scan measurement program. Also. it will be of practical use in human-size-related production processes.
TL;DR: In this paper , a study aimed to clarify differences in fabric hand perceptions among Japanese and Chinese participants and implement online shopping strategies that enable consumers to easily recognize fabric texture, and found that Chinese people have stronger preferences in fabrics than Japanese people do.
Abstract: PurposeThe study aimed to clarify differences in fabric hand perceptions among Japanese and Chinese participants and implement online shopping strategies that enable consumers to easily recognize fabric texture.Design/methodology/approachForty (20 Japanese and 20 Chinese) participants knowledgeable about clothing and fabric were recruited. Participants evaluated fabric by sight and touch in a visuotactile experiment (VTE). The stimulus material comprised 39 fabric samples representing a broad range of fabric attributes (7 fibers, 5 weaving/knitting techniques and 3 yarn thicknesses and density). A Mann–Whitney U test and a factor analysis were conducted to determine differences in responses for the different fabric variables.FindingsThe fabric hand perceptions factors were similar between both groups. Japanese participants showed a stronger preference for fabrics that felt wet. Japanese participants’ fabric hand perceptions had a 3-factor structure, while Chinese participants had a 2-factor structure. Chinese participants regarded “crisp” as perceptually and linguistically equivalent to “stretchy.”Originality/valueThe study’s findings suggest that Chinese people have stronger preferences in fabrics than Japanese people do. Japanese people evaluate fabric hand in a more nuanced manner than Chinese individuals, including discerning different fabric attributes, such as fiber and yarn thickness and density. Thus, nationality may influence fabric hand perceptions more than fabric knowledge does. Specifically, in evaluating “crispness,” the results required further analysis because differences in nationality may have affected evaluations regarding perception and linguistic perspectives. The findings provide design guidelines for implementing online shopping strategies adapted to each participant group.
TL;DR: In this paper , the authors used demographic characteristics and easy-to-record body measurements available in the size USA database to predict the crotch length accurately by using a few basic body measurements.
Abstract: PurposeThe purpose of the present study was to improve the fit of women’s bifurcated garments by developing an equation that can predict the crotch length accurately by using a few basic body measurements. This equation could provide a simple mass-customization approach to the design of bifurcated garments.Design/methodology/approachDemographic characteristics and easy-to-record body measurements available in the size USA database were used to predict the crotch length. Different methodologies including best subset regression, lasso regression and principal components regression were experimented with to identify the most important predictor variables and establish a relationship between the significant predictors and crotch length.FindingsThe lasso regression model provided the highest accuracy, required only five body dimensions and dealt with multicollinearity. The preliminary pattern preparation and garment fit tests indicated that by utilizing the proposed equation, patterns of customized garments could be successfully altered to match the crotch length of the customer, thereby, improving the precision and efficiency of the pattern making process.Originality/valueCrotch length is a crucial measurement as it determines bifurcated garment comfort as well as aesthetic fit. The crotch length is usually estimated arbitrarily based on non-scientific methods while drafting patterns, and this increases the likelihood of dissatisfaction with the fit of the lower-body garments. The present study suggested an algorithm that could predict crotch length with 90.53% accuracy using the body dimensions height, hips, waist height, knee height and arm length.
TL;DR: In this paper , a combined model of skin-electrical heating fabric system was established to simulate human skin tissue wearing electrical heating clothing, and a series of simulation experiments were designed on the basis of verifying the effectiveness of the combined model.
Abstract: PurposeAt present, electrical heating clothing is widely used to keep ourselves warm at low temperature. The purpose of this paper is to explore the heat transfer performance of electrical heating fabric and the thermal comfort of human skin at low temperature.Design/methodology/approachThe combined model of skin-electrical heating fabric system was established to simulate human skin tissue wearing electrical heating clothing. A series of simulation experiments are designed on the basis of verifying the effectiveness of the combined model. The temperature distribution inside the combined model and on the skin surface under different heating powers is simulated and analyzed. At the same time, the influence of ambient temperature on the thermal performance of electrical heating fabric was explored.FindingsThe skin model with blood vessels reflected the temperature change of human skin wearing electrical heating clothing. The higher the heating power of the electrical heating fabric was, the greater the temperature of the skin surface changed, the faster the temperature rose and the longer the time required to reach the stable state would be. After the heating element was electrified, it had the greatest effect on the average temperature of the epidermis and dermis, had smaller effect on the average temperature of subcutaneous layer and had little effect on the temperature of blood vessels. When the heating power was the same, the higher the ambient temperature was, the more obvious the heating effect of electrical heating fabric was. Electrical heating fabrics with different heating powers were suitable for different ambient temperature ranges.Originality/valueA reasonable and effective evaluation method for the thermal comfort of electrical heating fabric was provided by establishing the skin model and combined model of the skin-electrical heating fabric system. It provides a reference for the design and application of electrical heating clothing.
TL;DR: Zhang et al. as discussed by the authors investigated dynamic ease distributions of clothes at bust and waist lines with different body surface angle by using a Qualisys three-dimensional motion capture system (3DMCS).
Abstract: PurposeThe purpose of this paper investigates dynamic ease distributions of clothes at bust and waist lines with different body surface angle by using a Qualisys three-dimensional motion capture system (3DMCS).Design/methodology/approachThe current method first obtain the specific markers of participants and their clothes along the bust and waist lines through 3DMCS, then using the least square method and four piecewise polynomial fitting participants and their clothes' bust and waist curves. The coordinates of the markers were tracked by the 3DMCS, while the participants under different body surface angle walked on a treadmill calculated the distances of markers coordinates to the participants' bust and waist curves. Finally, the data of samples were analyzed. It was found that the dynamic ease distributions showed different patterns at different body surface angle.FindingsThe results revealed the bust convex angle is 26.53 degrees (Specification:X3) and back slope angle is 13.96 degrees (Specification: Y1), the fluctuation of participant ease distributions on bust section was most obvious, and the maximum fluctuation value was ±20 mm and ±25 mm. The ease distributions of participant waist section fluctuated most obviously when the bust convex angle is 28.10 degrees (Specification: X5) and the back slope angle is 13.96 degrees (Specification: Y1), and the maximum fluctuation was ±30 mm and ±20 mm. The bust convex angle has the greatest influence on 1# garment, and the back slope angle has the greatest influence on 2# garment.Originality/valueCurrently, there is little information in the literature about dynamic ease distributions of garment on a different body types. This paper takes different body surface angles as the research objects to analyze the ease distributions of different clothes, the conclusion can provide reference data for 3D garment modeling and improve the authenticity of virtual garment fitting.
TL;DR: In this paper , the effects of self-dyeing were investigated via color strength K/S, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffraction, tensile strength, color fastness to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light.
Abstract: PurposeThe textile industry has consumed large quantities of water and discharged large volumes of wastewater in the dyeing process. The study aims to characterize self-dyed silk with Rhodamine B (RhB) for fashion applications to reduce textile hazards to the environment and increase the added value of silk.Design/methodology/approachBombyx mori was fed with RhB-colored mulberry leaves (1500 ppm). The effects of self-dyeing were investigated via color strength K/S, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffraction, tensile strength, color fastness to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light.FindingsSelf-dyed silk possesses effective coloration and impressive color fastness (4–5/5), higher crystalline index (CrI) (73.26 ± 2.28%), less thermal stability and tenacity, slight change in amino acid composition compared with the pristine and no existence of harmful aromatic azo amines and arylamine salts.Practical implicationsThe application of self-dyed silk with RhB dye has expanded new technology into fashion industry, contributing partly to economic growth and adding value to silk in the global supply chain. Besides, the self-dyeing will yield practical values in the reduction of dyeing discharge in textile industry.Originality/valueSelf-dyed silk was characterized for textile applications in comparison with pristine silk in terms of color strength and fastness as well as determined its polymeric properties relating to crystallinity, morphology, chemical composition, tensile properties and thermal stability which have not been investigated before.
TL;DR: Zhang et al. as discussed by the authors analyzed the relationship between affect space and bra design factors based on the observer's vision judgment and established the model of bra emotion recognition based on design factors using the neural network BRP.
Abstract: PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to analyze the relationship between affect space and bra design factors based on the observer's vision judgment.Design/methodology/approachFirst, using two dimensions of attractiveness and satisfaction to define the bra emotion space based on literature. Then, the mapping relation between bra design factors and emotional space is analyzed in visual perception. Finally, the model of bra emotion recognition based on design factors is established using the neural network BRP.FindingsUsers' emotions stimulated by bras can be automatically recognized based on their visual design factors. (1) attractiveness and satisfaction which are used to define bra emotions space show a linear correlation between each other in the human visual domain. (2) The design factors that cause attractiveness can also cause satisfaction. However, the factors that stimulate satisfaction do not necessarily attract users' interest, such as the ratio, location of embellishments, hollowed, core decoration and contour lines.Practical implicationsThe analysis of bra emotion space may help designers to understand the relationship between bra visual appearance and emotion, and ask them to pay attention to empathic design factors. With the provided results, designers can also carry out and evaluate emotional bra design with high attractiveness and satisfaction.Originality/valueThis paper discusses the emotional attributes of bra visual design factors based on bra emotion space and explores the methods of bra emotion design.
TL;DR: In this article , the effect of filament composition on the thermal comfort properties of bi-layer knitted fabrics was investigated and the results showed that the increasing difference of hydrophilicity between inner and outer layers resulted in the enhancement of moisture management properties.
Abstract: PurposeThe purpose of this work is to investigate the effect of filament composition with different specifications on the thermal comfort properties of bi-layer knitted fabrics.Design/methodology/approachIn this paper eight bi-layer knitted fabrics with the same knitting structure but different filament compositions were prepared, and the thermal-wet comfort properties of these fabrics were examined. According to experimental data, the effect of filament composition on the thermal comfort properties of fabric was analyzed.FindingsThe increasing difference of hydrophilicity between inner and outer layers resulted in the enhancement of moisture management properties. Better thermal-physiology performance was exhibited by fabrics made up of finer and circular section fibers. Excellent thermal transfer, drying performance and one-way water transport capacity benefited the improvement of dynamic cooling effect of fabrics.Originality/valueThis work provides a useful and effective method for the development of bi-layer knitted fabric applied for sports and summer clothing.
TL;DR: Zhang et al. as discussed by the authors proposed an Outfit Memory Net (OMNet) which augments original feature by aggregating dataset-level prior clothing combination information, which achieved 93.15% pixel accuracy and 51.24% mean of class-wise intersection over union (mIoU).
Abstract: PurposeExisting clothing parsing methods make little use of dataset-level information. This paper aims to propose a novel clothing parsing method which utilizes higher-level outfit combinatorial consistency knowledge from the whole clothing dataset to improve the accuracy of segmenting clothing images.Design/methodology/approachIn this paper, the authors propose an Outfit Memory Net (OMNet) that augments original feature by aggregating dataset-level prior clothing combination information. Specifically, the authors design an Outfit Matrix (OM) to represent clothing combination information of single image and an Outfit Memory Module (OMM) to store the clothing combination information of all images in the training set, i.e. dataset-level clothing combination information. In addition, the authors propose a Multi-scale Aggregation Module (MAM) to aggregate the clothing combination information in a multi-scale manner to solve the problem of large variance in the scale of objects in the clothing images.FindingsExperiments on Colorful Fashion Parsing Dataset (CFPD) dataset show that the authors' method achieves 93.15% pixel accuracy (PA) and 51.24% mean of class-wise intersection over union (mIoU), which are satisfactory parsing results compared with existing methods such as PSPNet, DANet and DeepLabV3. Moreover, through comparing the segmentation accuracy of different methods for each category, MAM could effectively improve the segmentation of small objects.Originality/valueWith the rise of various online shopping platforms and the continuous development of deep learning technology, emerging applications such as clothing recommendation, matching, classification and virtual try-on system have emerged in the clothing field. Clothing parsing is the key technology to realize these applications. Therefore, improving the accuracy of clothing parsing is necessary.
TL;DR: In this paper , the influence of sewing and adhesive bonding on the aesthetic, mechanical and conductive properties of the e-textile package was investigated for the production of etextiles by most common cut-and-sewn clothing production technologies.
Abstract: PurposeThis paper aims to present investigations of the influence of sewing and adhesive bonding technology on the aesthetic, mechanical and conductive properties of the e-textile package. Commercially available conductive textiles are tested for the production of e-textile package by most common cut-and-sewn clothing production technologies.Design/methodology/approachSewing, adhesive bonding and seam sealing technologies used to obtain e-textile packages with woven and knitted conductive textiles. Produced e-textile packages described in terms of thickness, bending rigidity and general appearance. Exploitation properties of prepared samples tested by cycle tensile experiment and discussed on the basis of variation of linear electrical resistance property.FindingsResearch has shown that a reliable e-textile package can be obtained by applying cut-and-sew technology for conductive tracks of silver coated woven and knitted material. Seam sealing by thermoplastic polymer layer has an impact on the electrical and deformation properties of the samples. To create attractive smart clothing design, the appropriate joining method and its technological parameters must be chosen to ensure the durability and safety of e-textile packages.Originality/valueThe findings of the research are of substantial value for the production of e-textiles by cut-and-sewn technologies. The required shape of the conductive textile element for various applications can be cut and joined to the garment parts using traditional sewing or adhesive bonding techniques.