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Class, gender and the sweatshop: on the nexus between labour commodification and exploitation

Alessandra Mezzadri
- 15 Aug 2016 - 
- Vol. 37, Iss: 10, pp 1877-1900
TLDR
In this article, a case study of the Indian garment industry and its gendered sweatshop regime is presented, which illustrates how commodification and exploitation interplay in factory and home-based realms, and discusses how an approach on class premised on social reproduction changes the social perimeters of what we understand as labour 'unfreedom' and labour struggles.
Abstract
Drawing on approaches to class emphasising the multiplicity of labour relations at work under capitalism, and from feminist insights on oppression and social reproduction, this paper illustrates the interconnection between processes of class formation and patriarchal norms in globalised production circuits. The analysis emphasises the nexus between the commodification and exploitation of women’s labour, and how it structures gendered wage differentials, labour control and the high ‘disposability’ of women’s work. The analysis develops these arguments by exploring the case of the Indian garment industry and its gendered sweatshop regime. It illustrates how commodification and exploitation interplay in factory and home-based realms, and discusses how an approach on class premised on social reproduction changes the social perimeters of what we understand as labour ‘unfreedom’ and labour struggles.

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Class,!gender!and!the!sweatshop:!on!the!ne x us!b etw e e n!lab o u r !
commodification!and!exploitation!
Forthcoming+(2016)+in+Third&World&Quarterly,+special+issue+o n +‘C la s s +D y n a mics’+(accep te d+version)!
Alessandra!Mezzadri,!SOAS!!
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Abstract!!
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valueVgeneration) is# implicitly# embedded% in% a! wageVcentric' view' of# ethics.
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schema,( the( main( struggle( for( '$(! S42R(3(&&T! %&! (0'(.%0R! '$(! 42R(V.(32'%/0.
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!This% take% on%
class%formation%devalues%reproductive+activities! V! i.e.$ work! as#opposed#to#labour!
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e! that$
are$ reVlabelled& as& un productive& because& unpaid& or& unwaged.& The$ contribution$ by$ those$
engaging&in& these# activities# V! mainly! women& e! is# th us# seen# as# lying# outside# the# process#of#
labouring.+!
Second,' takes&on& class& centred&on& the& p ubl ic& sphere& and&on& production* un derstand) social'
difference!as#merely#produced(by(capitalism,"rather"than"also"structuring"its" f uncti oni ng"and"
possessing( a( certain( degree( of( autonomy.( Instead,( while( capitalism( has( triggered( distinct(
processes' of' housewifisation! and$ domestication! of# women
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patriarchal)no rms)nor)other# modes&of&social&oppression,&premised&on&race,&caste,&ethnicity&
or# geographical#provenance.#Intersection ali ty#theory
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!has$ p artiall y$brought$this$point$home,$
stressing( the( need( to( look( at( the( way( in( which( forms( of( social( oppression( intersect! in#
experiences$of$subalterneity,$shaping$complex$geographi es*of*p ower.
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However,( often,( mere( reference( to( intersections! risks% remaining% a% descriptive% exercise,%
simply' indicating' overlaps' between' social' categories,' as' in' a' Venn' diagram.' Th e' point,'
instead,)is) explaining&their& relation,&on& the& basis&of& key& analytical&concerns.& In & the& analysis&
developed'here,'the'key'concern'is:'how'do'we'understand'class'and'class'formation,'once'
we#account#for#forms#of#social#opp ression#like#patriarchal#norms?#This#question#does#not#aim#
at#suggesting#the#primacy!of#class#per$se!vis?à?vis!other&social&categories
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,"a"position"that"I"
find%both%analytically%and%politically%unhelpful,%as%often%dismissive%of%social% concerns%other%
than% class% struggle% as% secondary." Instead," it" aims" at" underlining" the" need" to" understand"
class%as% a% relational%category%that,%as% argued%by% L eela% Fernandez%in% her%study%of% Calcuttas"
jute%mills,% is% always% marked' by' difference,' as'it' is' continually'been' manufactured'through'

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identity
J@
." Overall," class" is" shaped" by" a" multi pli city" of" social" relations," and" experienced"
differently*by*different*social#groups.!
Arguably,* beyond*the* realm* of* economics,* some* Marxian* analyses* have* explicitly* stressed*
the$ multiplicity$ of$ labour$ relations$ at$ work$ under$ global$ capitalism,$ challenging$ narrow$
understandings+ of+ class.+ Loo king+ at+ processes+ of+ accumulation+ and+ proletarianisation* in*
historical* perspective,* Banaji* has* highlighted* the* coVexistence( of( free! and$ unfree! labour'
throughout'the'history'of'capitalism.'In'a'similar'vein,'but'privileging'the'current'workings'of'
capitalism) in) its) neoliberal) phase,) Bernstein) has$ convincingly$ argued$ that$ contemporary$
processes'of' proletarianisation' result' in' the' formation' of' multiple' classes& of& labour," with"
different(relations(to(means( of( production,( subsistence( and( reproduction.
!J"
!In# India,# these#
classes&are&set&on&a&continuum!encompassing+both+formal+and+informal+realms.
J?
!!
From%a%feminist%standpoint,%these%understandings%of%class%represent%an%initial%fruitful%avenue%
to#recover#social#reproduction#as#a#key#dimensi on#of#the#debate#on#the#relational)nature)of)
class." However," arguably,( in( these( accounts,( social( reproduction( remains( an( area( to( be(
discovered,"in"either"its"relation"to"labour"unfreedom!or#in#the#constitution#of#the#classes&
of# labour."In" fact,"social" reproduction"does" not" simply"mean" labour" reproduction." Indeed,"
people%also% live%outside% work.
JJ
!They%may%not%from%the%point%of% view%of% capital,%but% they%
certainly*do*so*from*their*own*standpoint.*Nobody*simpl y*lives*to*labour,*even*when,*as*for*
large&swathe&of& the&working&poor
JY
,"this"ends"up"being"the"case"in"practice.%%!
A"number"of"feminist"analyses"and/or"contributions"from"female"scholars"may"be"deployed"
to#specifically#complement#Banajis"and"Bernsteins"analyses." A"productive"engagement"with"
the$ relation$ between$ class$ and $ patriarchal$ norms$ would$ be$ one$ accounting# for# the#
multiplicity)of)relations)of) proletarianisation)V! or# forms&of&exploitation,"as"Banaji" puts"it"
J[
!V!
generated(by(capitalism,(but(at(the(same(time(also(engaging(with(a(broader(understanding(
of# social# reproduction#anchored# to#forms#of# social# oppression$ that$ mediate$class,$ but$ also$
preVexist&it.&For&this&purpose,&the&work&of&Federici&and&Mies,&and&that&of&HarrissVWhite&and&
Gooptu&stand&out&as& particu larly&helpful.&Mies&and&Federici&provide&solid&tools&to&anchor&the&
study&of&produ ction &to&social&reproduction.
JK
!HarrissVWhite&and&Gooptu&develop&an &an alysis&
of#class#premised#on#its#rel ation#with#social#oppression.
J\
!Let$us$review$these$contributions.$!
In# her$ feminist$ account$ of$ p rimiti ve$ accumulation$ in$ Europe,$ Silvia& Federici& highlights& how&
'$%&!+./*(&&!42&!S0/'!&%=+37!20!2**6=632'%/0!20,!*/0*(0'.2'%/0!/1!(O+3/%'253(!4/.I(.&!20,!
*2+%'23<! P'! 42&! 23&/! 20! 2**6=632'%/0! /1! ,%11(.(0*(&! 20,! ,%9%&%/0&! 4%'$%0! '$(! 4/.I%0R! *32&&N!
4$(.(57! $%(.2.*$%(&! 56%3'! 6+/0! R(0,(.N! 2&! 4(33! 2&! S.2*(T! 20, ! 2R(N! 5(*2=(! */0&'%'6'%9(! /1!
*32&&! .63(! 20,! '$(! 1/.=2'%/0! /1! '$(! =/,(.0! +./3('2.%2'T<
J]
!P0! 2! &%=%32.! 9(%0N! C2.%2! C%(&!!
2.R6(&!'$2'!2**6=632'%/0!&'2.'&!1./=!.(+./,6*'%9(!.(23=&N!4$%*$!.(+.(&(0'!'$(!1/60,2'%/0&!
1/.! 4/=(0T&! 325/6.! 2++./+.%2'%/0! %0&%,(! 20,! /6'&%,(! '$(! $/6&($/3,<! E.24%0R! 1./=! H/&2!
D6O(=56.RT&!9%(4!/1!*2+%'23%&=N!C%(&!'$(/.%&(&!2**6=632'%/0!2&!52&(,!/0!=63'%+3(!20,!S/0V
R/%0RT!+./*(&&(&!/1!,%&+/&&(&&%/0N!'2.R('%0R!4/=(0T&!60+2%,!325/6.!2&!4(33!2&!02'6.(<
JL
!!
Focusing)more)specifically)on)social)processes)structuring)class,)and! analysing(the(world(of(
Indias" unorganised! labour,( HarrissVWhite& and& Nandini& Gooptu& observe& how& soci al&
institutions'and'structural'differences'mediate'the'very'process'of'class'formation.'Overall,'
these% institutions% and% structures% represent% the% complex% constellation* of* inequalities* and*
social'differences'capital'can'exploit'to'proletarianise
Y@
,"condemning"different"social"groups"
to# di stinct# struggles( over( class
Y"
." Karin" Kapadias" study" of" gemVcutters' in' Tamil' Nadu'
illustrates)this)point,)showing)how)female#gemVcutters'represented'a'wholly'different'type'of'

!
[!
working( class( from( their( male( counterparts(
Y?
e! in# short,# a# distinct# class% of% labour." This" is"
because'gender'ideologies'and'practices'mediated'womens"entry"into"the"world"of"labour.""!
These% contributions# complement# analyses# stressing# the# multiplicity# of# processes# of#
proletarianisation.,By,insisting,on,social,reproducti on ,and,social,oppression,beyond,class,or,
preVexisting( class,( but( mediating( the( process( of( class( formation,( these( insights( move( the(
attention$ from$ processes$ of$ labour$ exploitation$ to$ processes$ of$ labou r$ commodification.$
Ultimately,* capital ism* produces! multiple( classes& of& labour! and/or' combinations'of' free!
and$unfree!labour'by'deploying'already'socially'classed!bodies.(This(observation$does$not$
aim$at$demeaning$the$relevance$of$exploitation,$but$it$does$suggest$the$urgency$to$revisit$its$
coVconstitutive*relation*with*commodification.*I*turn*to*this*issue*below*by*focusing*on*the*
role%patriarchal%norms%play%in%global%productio n%ci rcuits.$!
!
Commodification)and$exploitation!as#two#sides#of#the#same#(gendered)#coin!
An#understanding# of#class#accounting#for#both#social# reproduction# and#social#oppression#is#
crucial' to' capture' womens" labouring" experiences" i n" glob al" production" circuits." Global"
commodity( chains( and( production( networks( are( gendered! socioVeconomic' formations,'
characterised* by* high* female* employment* rates* across* many* sectors,* like* garments
YJ
!or#
electronics.
YY
!In# fact,# chains# and# netwo rks# are# feminised# to# their# very# core,# far# beyond#
factory( realms.
Y[
!Patriarchal) norms) pave) their) inner) socioVeconomic' fabric,' even' when'
womens" employment" rates" appear" as" marginal." Firstly," women" can" b e" incorporated" as"
homeVbased& labour,& far& more& invisible! than% factory% labour.% Secondly,% womens" unpaid"
labour' may' be' mobilised' in' various' ways' within' the' production' process.' For' instance,'
womens" unpaid" labour" in" familyVbased& units& may& be& crucial& for& the& survival& of& p etty&
commodity( production( inside( globalised( circuits.( It( may(work( as( a( repro ducti ve( subsidy( to(
the$productive$household.$The$study$of$global$production$networks$should$also$involve$the$
study&of&global&reproduction+networks.
YK
!!
The$womans"question"in"production"e!and$that$of$ d isad vantaged$groups$in$general$V!initially'
presents'itself'as'a'question'of'differential'pricing."The"process"of"labouring"has"a"l ower"price"
whenever'contained!in#a#feminine#body.#The#body#is#indeed#the#first%machine!invented'by'
capitalism.
Y\
!Hence,& the& multiple& forms& of& exploitation
DE
!labouring* classes* experience* are*
structured( around( multiple( forms&of& labour' commodification." This" do es" not" mean" the" two"
processes'e! labour' commodification' and' exploitationV! can$ever$be$ separated,$as$ both$ take$
place&simultaneously&within&global&production&circuits.&!
In# contemporary# labour# debates,# instead,# narratives# counterpoising# commodification# and#
exploitation* have* gained* momentum,* based* on* relatively* polarised* understandings$ of$
Marxist(or(Polanyian(concerns(and(struggles.
YL
!The$extent$to$which$one$can$conceptualise$
commodificati on* as* a* primarily* Polanyian* concern! and$ exploitation$as$ a$ primarily$ Marxist$
concern! is# subject# to# intense# debate.# A# thorough# review# of# this# debate% goes% beyond% the%
scope& of& this& paper.
[@
!However,( one( can( argue( that( at( l east( when( it( comes( to( labouring(
experiences,*commodification* and*exploitation*cannot*be*separated;* they*are*two*sides* of*
the$ same$ coin.$ Groups$ subject$ to$ harsh$ forms$ of$ social$ oppression,& like& women,& already&
enter%Marxs"abode&of&production!with%a%lower%priceVtag!stuck&to&their&body,&and&this&sets&
the$basis$for$higher$exploitation!rates.'In'short,'when'it'comes'to'women,'commodification'
and$exploitation$are$coVconstitutive*of*the!!"#!$%!&'!()*(+,-).$(/,&0('+,112(1.-)$0%&,3%)&4(!

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Q1. What are the contributions in this paper?

Drawing on approaches to class stressing the multiplicity of labour relations at work under capitalism and from feminist insights on oppression and social reproduction, this paper illustrates the interconnection between processes of class formation and patriarchal norms in globalised production circuits.