Optimization and validation of an analytical procedure for the determination of oxidative hair dyes in commercial cosmetic formulations.

TLDR: A method has been developed and validated for the analysis of commonly used intermediates of oxidative hair dyes in commercial cosmetic formulations, including both liquid and cream forms, in dark and blonde shades, found to be highly suitable for the identification and quantification of dye intermediates.

Abstract: A method has been developed and validated for the analysis of commonly used intermediates of oxidative hair dyes in commercial cosmetic formulations, including both liquid and cream forms, in dark and blonde shades. The commercial formulations are submitted to extraction by an organic solvent, and the resulting aqueous phase is analyzed by reverse-phase HPLC with a gradient elution and detection with DAD and/or ESI-MS-MS. A spectra library containing 200-400 nm spectra of the target substances and their HPLC retention times has been recorded for the identification. The quantification of the target substances is also performed after spiking of the commercial formulations, using an external calibration. The recoveries obtained are very good for all selected intermediates. The whole procedure has been found to be highly suitable for the identification and quantification of dye intermediates. Also implemented has been a database containing (a) the retention times, (b) the spectral, MS, and MS/MS characteristics of the intermediates, (c) acidity constant values of some intermediates of interest experimentally determined and compared to the available NIST values, (d) the chromatographic conditions used, (e) the behavior towards extraction of dye intermediates, and (f) matrix compounds.