to be done in this area. Face recognition is a problem that scarcely clamoured for attention before the computer age but, having surfaced, has involved a wide range of techniques and has attracted the attention of some fine minds (David Mumford was a Fields Medallist in 1974). This singular application of mathematical modelling to a messy applied problem of obvious utility and importance but with no unique solution is a pretty one to share with students: perhaps, returning to the source of our opening quotation, we may invert Duncan's earlier observation, 'There is an art to find the mind's construction in the face!'.

Linear and nonlinear waves, by G. B. Whitham. Pp.636. £50. 1999. ISBN 0 471 35942 4 (Wiley).

Sea wave energy is being increasingly regarded in many countries as a major and promising resource. The paper deals with the development of wave energy utilization since the 1970s. Several topics are addressed: the characterization of the wave energy resource; theoretical background, with especial relevance to hydrodynamics of wave energy absorption and control; how a large range of devices kept being proposed and studied, and how such devices can be organized into classes; the conception, design, model-testing, construction and deployment into real sea of prototypes; and the development of specific equipment (air and water turbines, high-pressure hydraulics, linear electrical generators) and mooring systems.

Wave energy utilization: A review of the technologies

We survey the newly developed Hilbert spectral analysis method and its applications to Stokes waves, nonlinear wave evolution processes, the spectral form of the random wave field, and turbulence. Our emphasis is on the inadequacy of presently available methods in nonlinear and nonstationary data analysis. Hilbert spectral analysis is here proposed as an alternative. This new method provides not only a more precise definition of particular events in time-frequency space than wavelet analysis, but also more physically meaningful interpretations of the underlying dynamic processes.

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A new view of nonlinear water waves: the Hilbert spectrum

Dynamics of structures

Equations of motion are derived for long waves in water of varying depth. The equations are for small amplitude waves, but do include non-linear terms. They correspond to the Boussinesq equations for water of constant depth. Solutions have been calculated numerically for a solitary wave on a beach of uniform slope. These solutions include a reflected wave, which is also derived analytically by using the linearized long-wave equations.

https://www.cambridge.org/core/services/aop-cambridge-core/content/view/S0022112067002605

Long waves on a beach

The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from the deterministic point of view. The bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.

The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves

One of the possible mechanisms of forming offshore sandbars parallel to a coast is the wave-induced mass transport in the boundary layer near the sea bottom. For this mechanism to be effective, sufficient reflection must be present so that the waves are partially standing. The main part of this paper is to explain a theory that strong reflection can be induced by the sandbars themselves, once the so-called Bragg resonance condition is met. For constant mean depth and simple harmonic waves this resonance has been studied by Davies (1982), whose theory, is however, limited to weak reflection and fails at resonance. Comparison of the strong reflection theory with Heathershaw's (1982) experiments is made. Furthermore, if the incident waves are slightly detuned or slowly modulated in time, the scattering process is found to depend critically on whether the modulational frequency lies above or below a threshold frequency. The effects of mean beach slope are also studied. In addition, it is found for periodically modulated wave groups that nonlinear effects can radiate long waves over the bars far beyond the reach of the short waves themselves. Finally it is argued that the breakpoint bar of ordinary size formed by plunging breakers can provide enough reflection to initiate the first few bars, thereby setting the stage for resonant reflection for more bars.

Resonant reflection of surface water waves by periodic sandbars

The scattering of infinitesimal surface waves normally incident on a rectangular obstacle in a channel of finite depth is considered. A variational formulation is used as the basis of numerical computations. Scattering properties for bottom and surface obstacles of various proportions, including thin barriers and surface docks, are presented. Comparison with experimental and theoretical results by other investigators is also made.

https://www.cambridge.org/core/services/aop-cambridge-core/content/view/S0022112069000309

Scattering of surface waves by rectangular obstacles in waters of finite depth

Summary. Wave-induced stress in a porous elastic medium is studied on the basis of Biot's linearized theory which is a special case of the mixture theory. For sufficiently high frequencies which are pertinent to ocean waves and seismic waves, a boundary layer of Stokes' type is shown to exist near the free surface of the solid. Outside the boundary layer, fluid and the solid skeleton move together according to the laws of classical elasticity for a single phase. This division simplifies the analysis of the equations governing the two phases; and several examples of potential interest to geophysics and foundation mechanics are treated analytically.

Wave-induced responses in a fluid-filled poro-elastic solid with a free surface : A boundary layer theory

Using the theory of homogenization we examine the correction to Darcy's law due to weak convective inertia of the pore fluid. General formulae are derived for all constitutive coefficients that can be calculated by numerical solution of certain canonical cell problems. For isotropic and homogeneous media the correction term is found to be cubic in the seepage velocity, hence remains small even for Reynolds numbers which are not very small. This implies that inertia, if it is weak, is of greater importance locally than globally. Existing empirical knowledge is qualitatively consistent with our conclusion since the linear law of Darcy is often accurate for moderate flow rates.

https://www.cambridge.org/core/services/aop-cambridge-core/content/view/S0022112091001258

Chiang C. Mei

Papers

The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves

Resonant reflection of surface water waves by periodic sandbars

Scattering of surface waves by rectangular obstacles in waters of finite depth

Wave-induced responses in a fluid-filled poro-elastic solid with a free surface : A boundary layer theory

The effect of weak inertia on flow through a porous medium