Drape is one of the most important properties of fabric, which significantly influences the appearance of a garment or technical textile. Being closely related to stiffness and other mechanical parameters, drape is also influenced by seams and other modifications of the pure textile fabric. In most investigations, the drape coefficient according to Cusick is used to measure drape, using a special drape meter, which allows to quantitatively describing the textile's behaviour in terms of drape coefficient, number of nodes, etc. This article gives an overview of possibilities to modify fabric drape by printing different geometrical patterns on textile fabric. Their geometry and distance also influence on fabric drape. The resulting differences in a real garment using a skirt as an example will show the impact of 3D printing on garment drape.

https://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1757-899X/254/17/172023/pdf

Varying fabric drape by 3D-imprinted patterns for garment design

This chapter covers the different processes and applications of natural fibre-based nonwoven fabrics The design, development and properties of natural fibre-based nonwovens and their blends with synthetic fibres for specific applications are discussed in detail The sustainability of the process and products for aspects of environmental friendliness are explained Recyclability and biodegradability of nonwovens for technical applications from a sustainability point of view are also considered Finally, the chapter suggests the sustainable production of needle-punched nonwoven products and their future uses

Sustainable production and application of natural fibre-based nonwoven

Wastes involved in textile manufacturing are undesirable but inevitable in yarn and fabric manufacturing processes. The wastes extracted during spinning and weaving operations are frequently not taken seriously in many cases. This chapter highlights different types of waste extracted during spinning and weaving operation along with their classification and percentage level. The chapter also classifies waste in terms of soft/hard waste or product/process waste generated during spinning and weaving operations. As the raw material costs constitute the majority of yarn and fabric production costs, every textile industry prefers to use waste fibers in the blends to save raw material costs and efficient use of limited raw material resources. Also, waste control during spinning and weaving plays a significant role in increasing the rate of production and minimization of cost of yarn and fabric. The management of the different types of waste is also discussed along with different types of machineries utilized for making these waste usable or recyclable for further processing.

Management of spinning and weaving wastes

Amongst the different property parameters of the produced fabric, drapeability of fabric is one of the crucial parameters with respect to end uses. It is the ability of fabric to hang freely in graceful folds when some area of it is supported over a surface and the rest is unsupported. During the application of different fabrics, both in industrial and apparel sector, it has been observed that the ability of the fabric to assume a graceful appearance of the contour is very vital conveying the significance of drapeability of the fabric. With the growing environmental concerns and eco-sustainability, the global emphasis is towards the application of eco- concordant, bio-degradable, renewable green products and this has inclined towards the natural fibre-made fabrics scoring them over their manmade counter parts and making them a natural choice for the mankind. The natural fibre-made fabrics have proven records of efficacy to prove their mettle match with manmade fabrics in different areas of application. This paper has reviewed and analyzed the various attributes of natural fibre-made fabrics such as jute, cotton, silk and wool focusing mainly on their draping behavior, determining their strengths and weakness considering the future direction of research to overcome their deficiencies.

http://www.ajer.org/papers/v3(3)/ZS33346358.pdf

A Review on Drapeability of Natural Fibre-made Fabrics

The works reported in this article is an account of wastes generated in two air jet weaving mills producing mills producing 100% cotton fabrics for the export market. Mainly two types of wastes were categorized e.g. (i) wastes related to only warp e.g. gara cones, knotting waste, gaiting/tying-in, loom setting, as beam residue after sizing and weaving, warping, in the sizing zone and the polyester yarns in the auxiliary selvedge etc. and (ii) wastes related only weft e.g. cut fringe, faulty cones, waste due to loom setting etc. The study involved collection of data about various wastes (both warp and weft) of 8 different qualities (construction wise) from the two air jet weaving mills. The amounts of respective wastes were then expressed as percentages of the total quantity of warp and weft. The wastes related to warp and weft were left in the two factories was found to be in the range of 2.59% to 3.96% and 2.43% to 3.51% respectively. It was also observed that the warp wastes in knotting, gaiting/tying-in, loom setting and as beam residue after weaving were insignificant whereas warp wastes in warping and sizing zone were significant. It was also found that finer warp yarns and higher warp thread density were responsible for more waste.Higher waste. Higher set length and greater length of warp in the weaver’s beam generated lesser waste.On the other hand,Inwaste. In case of weft, wastes due to cut fringe and faulty cones were found to be significant, but weft waste due to loom setting was found to be insignificant. The waste due to cut fringe may be reduced if the width of the fabric in increased. The polyester filament (ply) yarns are used as warp in the auxiliary selvedge of fabric seems not very significant. , however due to their high strength; these yarns are being reused again and again for long period of timeIt was found in one of the factory that the cleanersseparate the cut fringes manually leaving only the selvedge warp yarns which are then wound on to any suitable packagefor further use in leno selvedge. Another factory sells their dummy selvedge as scrap at a very low cost.

https://ojs.cnr.ncsu.edu/index.php/JTATM/article/download/13207/6006

Study on Material Wastes in Air-jet Weaving Mills

From the very inception of the Indian Jute Industry, jute fiber has proved its superiority over other fibers particularly in the area of packaging for food grains, in terms of its functionality and reusability due to its considerable tensile strength, low extensibility, and good dimensional stability, which is obviously the natural choice for packaging. One of the growing alternatives in today’s context is the emergence of technical textiles made out of natural fibers which includes geotextile products for geotechnical applications, agrotextile products as well as other such relevant areas. Jute geotextile can certainly be considered as a potential aspirant replacing majority of today’s popular synthetic products which are posing severe threats to our environment thereby adversely affecting the eco-congruity. During the application of jute fabrics of different types at the sites and even in designing garments in the Apparel Sector, it has been observed that the ability of the fabric to assume a graceful a...

An Evaluation of Drapeability of Jute Fabric

Waste control during knotting of warp yarns plays a considerable role in increasing the rate of production of fabric and to maintain its quality criterion. During knotting, a notable length of the warp yarns in the sized beam gets wasted as the quality of those ends get damaged during the previous process. In this study, ways to reduce the knotting waste of the sized beam warp yarns have been examined using cotton yarns of carded and open-end qualities. A small modification of the accessories of the yarn sizing machine along with adoption of some new practices different from the common practices applied for manufacturing of the fabric, have been proposed. This will not only help to reduce the knotting waste of the warp yarns, it is also a time saving process, which will eventually lead to increase in production rate.

/pdf/study-on-generation-of-knotting-waste-in-weaving-cotton-2yyjhv6e1g.pdf

Study on Generation of Knotting Waste in Weaving Cotton Fabric and its Remedial Measures

The growing global concern for environment on one hand and the alarming danger of carbon footprint generation along with non-biodegradability and higher toxicity generation from the use of synthetic fibres on the other have created a dire need to come back to natural fibres. During the application of fabrics at the sites for geotextile application and even in designing garments in the apparel sector, it has been observed that the ability of the fabric to assume a graceful appearance of the contour is very crucial in conveying the significance of drapeability of the natural fibre-made fabric. An attempt has been made in this work to evaluate the effect of different weave constructions on the drapeability of jute-woven fabrics to justify their application on the sites.

Chinmoy Dey

Papers

An Evaluation of Drapeability of Jute Fabric

Study on Generation of Knotting Waste in Weaving Cotton Fabric and its Remedial Measures

A Review on Drapeability of Natural Fibre-made Fabrics

Study of the effect of different weave constructions on the drapeability of jute woven fabric