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American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME)

This article includes an updated review of the classification, uses and side effects of surfactants for their application in the cosmetic, personal care and pharmaceutical industries. Based on their origin and composition, surfactants can be divided into three different categories: (i) synthetic surfactants; (ii) bio-based surfactants; and (iii) microbial biosurfactants. The first group is the most widespread and cost-effective. It is composed of surfactants, which are synthetically produced, using non-renewable sources, with a final structure that is different from the natural components of living cells. The second category comprises surfactants of intermediate biocompatibility, usually produced by chemical synthesis but integrating fats, sugars or amino acids obtained from renewable sources into their structure. Finally, the third group of surfactants, designated as microbial biosurfactants, are considered the most biocompatible and eco-friendly, as they are produced by living cells, mostly bacteria and yeasts, without the intermediation of organic synthesis. Based on the information included in this review it would be interesting for cosmetic, personal care and pharmaceutical industries to consider microbial biosurfactants as a group apart from surfactants, needing specific regulations, as they are less toxic and more biocompatible than chemical surfactants having formulations that are more biocompatible and greener.

Synthetic and Bio-Derived Surfactants Versus Microbial Biosurfactants in the Cosmetic Industry: An Overview.

Nanocelluloses as skin biocompatible materials for skincare, cosmetics, and healthcare: Formulations, regulations, and emerging applications

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In the skin care field, bacterial nanocellulose (BNC), a versatile polysaccharide produced by non-pathogenic acetic acid bacteria, has received increased attention as a promising candidate to replace synthetic polymers (e.g., nylon, polyethylene, polyacrylamides) commonly used in cosmetics. The applicability of BNC in cosmetics has been mainly investigated as a carrier of active ingredients or as a structuring agent of cosmetic formulations. However, with the sustainability issues that are underway in the highly innovative cosmetic industry and with the growth prospects for the market of bio-based products, a much more prominent role is envisioned for BNC in this field. Thus, this review provides a comprehensive overview of the most recent (last 5 years) and relevant developments and challenges in the research of BNC applied to cosmetic, aiming at inspiring future research to go beyond in the applicability of this exceptional biotechnological material in such a promising area.

Bacterial Nanocellulose toward Green Cosmetics: Recent Progresses and Challenges

A global tendency for products considered environmentally sustainable, and ecologically obtained led the industry related to personal care formulations to fund the research and the development of personal care/cosmetics containing ingredients from natural resources. Furthermore, consumers are aware of environmental and sustainability issueans, thus not harming the environment represents a key consideration when developing a new cosmetic ingredient. In this study we review some examples of active ingredients or raw materials used in cosmetics/personal care/biomedical products that are coming from either through biotechnological systems, or as byproducts of several industries. A skin formulation containing biosynthetic actives, prepared by us and the study regarding its dermocosmetic properties are also described. The need for the standardization processes, the safety assessment tools, the improvement of the exploitation methods of these renewable sources in order the production to be ecologically and economically better are also discussed.

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ics.12564

Renewable sources: applications in personal care formulations.

Iontophoresis is defined as the use of electric current to drive molecules across cell membranes through an electrolyte solution. In therapeutic context, it is used to facilitate the administration of bioactive substances, either systemically or locally. The technique presents various advantages and that is why it has been successfully used by a plethora of medical sciences. The constantly developing field of dermato‐cosmetic science has also taken advantage of the possibilities offered by iontophoresis, aiming to enhance the delivery of the applied active ingredients and, thus, induce the desired cosmetic effects.

F Mellou

Papers

Renewable sources: applications in personal care formulations.

Iontophoresis in dermal delivery: A review of applications in dermato‐cosmetic and aesthetic sciences