From Discourse to Logic

This paper develops an analysis of aspect shift and applies it to French and English. The Progressive, the Perfect/Parfait, and duration adverbials introduced by in or for are interpreted as aspectual operators which modify eventuality descriptions. The French past tenses are sensitive to aspect, but they do not change the aspectual class of the eventuality description themselves. Instead, they presuppose that the eventuality description they operate on is of the right aspectual type: the Passee Simple and Imparfait are tense operators which locate respectively events and states in the past. Free aspectual transitions may be triggered by coercion in order to satisfy the aspectual requirements on aspectual and temporal operators. The analysis is formulated within the framework of Discourse Representation Theory (DRT).

Aspect shift and coercion

A theoretical model is developed for wave heights and set-up in a surf zone. In the time averaged equations of energy and momentum the energy flux, radiation stress and energy dissipation are determined by simple approximations which include the surface roller in the breaker. Comparison with measurements shows good agreement. Also the transitions immediately after breaking are analysed and shown to be in accordance with the above mentioned ideas and results.

/pdf/wave-heights-and-set-up-in-a-surf-zone-39q6lqmhg5.pdf

Wave Heights and Set-up in a Surf Zone

Global warming in response to accumulation of human-induced greenhouse gases inside the atmosphere has already caused several visible consequences, among them increase of the Earth's mean temperature and ocean heat content, melting of glaciers, and loss of ice from the Greenland and Antarctica ice sheets. Ocean warming and land ice melt in turn are causing sea level to rise. Sea level rise and its impacts on coastal zones have become a question of growing interest in the scientific community, as well as in the media and public. In this review paper, we summarize the most up-to-date knowledge about sea level rise and its causes, highlighting the regional variability that superimposes the global mean rise. We also present sea level projections for the 21st century under different warming scenarios. We next address the issue of the sea level rise impacts. We question whether there is already observational evidence of coastal impacts of sea level rise and highlight the fact that results differ from one location to another. This suggests that the response of coastal systems to sea level rise is highly dependent on local natural and human settings. We finally show that in spite of remaining uncertainties about future sea levels and related impacts, it becomes possible to provide preliminary assessment of regional impacts of sea level rise. http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/2013EF000188/abstract

https://agupubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1002/2013EF000188

Sea level rise and its coastal impacts

https://repository.tudelft.nl/islandora/object/uuid%3Aa45c14e5-05c0-48b3-8fed-2bea3740e69c/datastream/OBJ/download

Approaches to long-term modelling of coastal morphology : A review

In this review we discuss the morphodynamics of tidal inlet systems that are typical of barrier coasts formed during a period of continuous sea-level rise during the Holocene. The morphodynamics concerns feedbacks between three major components: the hydrodynamics of tidal currents and wind waves; the erosion, deposition, and transport of sediment under the action of the former hydrodynamic agencies; and the morphology proper, which results from the divergence of the sediment transport. We discuss the morphodynamics of the different units that characterize a tidal inlet system: the overall system, the ebb-tidal delta, the tidal channels, channel networks, tidal bars and meanders, and finally the intertidal zone of tidal flats and salt marshes. In most of these units, stability analysis is a major guide to the establishment of equilibrium structures.

Morphodynamics of Tidal Inlet Systems

A simple morphological model is considered which describes the interaction between a unidirectional flow and an erodible bed in a straight channel. For sufficiently large values of the width-depth ratio of the channel the basic state, i.e. a uniform current over a flat bottom, is unstable. At near-critical conditions growing perturbations are confined to a narrow spectrum and the bed profile has an alternate bar structure propagating in the downstream direction. The timescale associated with the amplitude growth is large compared to the characteristic period of the bars. Based on these observations a weakly nonlinear analysis is presented which results in a GinzburgLandau equation. It describes the nonlinear evolution of the envelope amplitude of the group of marginally unstable alternate bars. Asymptotic results of its coefficients are presented as perturbation series in the small drag coefficient of the channel. In contrast to the Landau equation, described by Colombini et al. (1987), this amplitude equation also allows for spatial modulations due to the dispersive properties of the wave packet. It is demonstrated rigorously that the periodic bar pattern can become unstable through this effect, provided the bed is dune covered, and for realistic values of the other physical parameters. Otherwise, it is found that the periodic bar pattern found by Colombini et al. (1987) is stable. Assuming periodic behaviour of the envelope wave in a frame moving with the group velocity, simulations of the dynamics of the Ginzburg-Landau equation using spectral models are carried out, and it is shown that quasi-periodic behaviour of the bar pattern appears.

/pdf/on-the-nonlinear-dynamics-of-free-bars-in-straight-channels-5jkjk5to7t.pdf

On the nonlinear dynamics of free bars in straight channels

https://www.waddenacademie.nl/fileadmin/inhoud/pdf/04-bibliotheek/Themanummer_OCMA/5_Morphodynamics_of_the_Wadden_Sea_and_its_barrier_island_system_OCMA.pdf

Morphodynamics of the Wadden Sea and its barrier island system

The possible morphodynamic equilibria of tidal embayments are investigated within the framework of a one-dimensional model The equilibria are defined by a steady profile of the erodible bottom. The extension with respect to earlier studies is that the embayments have arbitrary lengths L with respect to the tidal wavelength. This implies a much richer dynamics due to the possibility of tidal resonance and new sediment transport contributions that are caused by internally generated overtides and residual currents. If the system is only forced by an externally prescribed M2 tide at the seaward boundary, a unique morphodynamic equilibrium is obtained for all embayment lengths smaller than the frictional length scale of the tide. Bottom friction causes tidal resonance to occur for a shorter length than a quarter of the frictionless tidal wavelength. This shift is smaller than would occur in the case of a fixed bed profile since the equilibrium condition induces larger water depths. If an externally prescribed overtide is added to the forcing, more than one type of morphodynamic equilibria can be found. For L values smaller than the M4 resonance length scale the bottom profiles are strongly concave, with locally large water depths, and the water motion resembles a standing tidal wave. For longer embayments another type of equilibria, characterized by a weakly concave bottom profile and a traveling tidal wave, appears. For sufficiently strong amplitudes of the externally prescribed M4 tide, multiple morphodynamic equilibria are found. The maximum L, beyond which morphodynamic equilibria cease to exist, decreases with increasing influence of external overtide and bottom friction. These model results show an overall good agreement with field observations.

https://agupubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1029/2000JC900110

H.E. de Swart

Papers

Approaches to long-term modelling of coastal morphology : A review

Morphodynamics of Tidal Inlet Systems

On the nonlinear dynamics of free bars in straight channels

Morphodynamics of the Wadden Sea and its barrier island system

Multiple morphodynamic equilibria in tidal embayments