Jon Miles

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors compare mean alongshore currents observed on two barred beaches with predictions based on the one-dimensional, time and depth-averaged alongshore momentum balance between forcing (by breaking waves, wind, and 10-100 km scale alongshore surface slopes), bottom stress, and lateral mixing.

TL;DR: In this article, the role of bore turbulence for sediment transport in the swash and inner surf zones is investigated using field measurements of (a) cross-shore velocity using an electromagnetic current meter at z =3.5 cm, (b) turbulent kinetic energy (TKE ) and (c) water depth using a pressure transducer at z 0, and suspended sediment concentration (SSC ) using seven miniature optical backscatter sensors at Z =1-32 cm, on a steep beach in high energy conditions (H b ≈1.6).

TL;DR: In this paper, a theoretical model is developed based on the linear potential flow theory and eigenfunction matching method to evaluate the hydrodynamic performance of an array of OWCs installed along a vertical straight coast.

TL;DR: In this article, the variations of the beach morphology surveyed in Teignmouth, United Kingdom, while the swash processes were shaping the beach, in parallel with the hydrodynamic conditions and watertable fluctuations.

TL;DR: In this article, the sedimentological and morphological investigations of the intertidal and nearshore area of Teignmouth (UK) using a variety of techniques were carried out by 11 European institutions.