B.G. Ruessink

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors compare mean alongshore currents observed on two barred beaches with predictions based on the one-dimensional, time and depth-averaged alongshore momentum balance between forcing (by breaking waves, wind, and 10-100 km scale alongshore surface slopes), bottom stress, and lateral mixing.

TL;DR: In this article, the temporal and spatial variability of crescentic sandbars is analyzed with hourly long-term (months) video observations collected at four barred sites and qualitatively compared to the temporal variability predicted by hypotheses underpinning existing approaches and models for Crescentic bar formation.

TL;DR: In this paper, a new functional form for γ is derived empirically by an inverse modelling of γ from a high-resolution (in the cross-shore) 300-h H rms data set collected at Duck, NC, USA.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors compare predictions of a coupled, wave-averaged, cross-shore waves-currents-bathymetric evolution model to observations of onshore and offshore nearshore sandbar migration.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors investigated the dependence of swash parameters on environmental conditions such as short-wave height, period, and local beach slope, and found evidence for saturation of the higher infragravity frequencies for ξ 0 less than, roughly, 0.27.