Investigations on the porous media equations and resistance coefficients for coastal structures

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Wave Overtopping of Marine Structures: utilization of wave energy

Physical modelling of tsunami using a new pneumatic wave generator

Monochromatic wave overtopping over the crest of an impermeable coastal structure located on a sloping beach is predicted numerically by expanding the numerical model developed previously for predicting wave run-up on such a structure located on the horizontal seabed The expanded numerical model predicts the temporal variations of the velocity and depth of the flow over the crest of the structure from which the average overtopping rate per unit width is computed The model accounts for the effect of wave shoaling on the sloping beach in front of the structure located in relatively shallow water The computed average overtopping rates are shown to be in agreement with available small-scale test data for which smooth impermeable structures were fronted by a 1:10 slope The numerical model also predicts the decrease of wave reflection due to the increase of wave overtopping However, more detailed measurements will be required to further calibrate and evaluate the numerical model which may be extended to examine the armor stability of overtopped breakwaters

O. Juul Jensen

Papers

Evaluation of scale effects in hydraulic models by analysis of laminar and turbulent flows

Overspilling/overtopping of rubble-mound breakwaters. Results of studies, useful in design procedures