Showing papers in "Cosmetics in 2023"
TL;DR: Caffeine is widely used in cosmetic formulations due to its photoprotector and anti-aging properties, as well as lipolytic action in cellulitis, and hair regrowth as mentioned in this paper .
Abstract: Upcycling is a modern trend in the cosmetic sector, focusing on by-products reuse and waste reduction. Consumers are more aware of the origin of cosmetic products and their environmental impact, promoting the upcycling phenomenon. Converting these raw materials into products of higher quality or value contributes to the final product’s sustainability. In fact, several agri-food by-products that are typically discarded have generated great interest, due to their value-added compounds with high functionality and/or bioactivity. Coffee is well known as a cosmetic ingredient, particularly due to the presence of phenolic compounds, such as chlorogenic acids, and caffeine. Caffeine is widely used in cosmetic formulations due to its photoprotector and anti-aging properties, as well as lipolytic action in cellulitis, and hair regrowth. Chlorogenic acids are powerful antioxidants and exhibit anti-aging and photoprotector abilities. Coffee by-products, such as coffee beans, possess these bioactive compounds and other chemical characteristics that can provide functional properties in cosmetic formulations. Coffee silverskin and spent coffee grounds are high-volume by-products of the coffee industry. Their use has been explored in different cosmetic formulations demonstrating safety, stability, acceptability as well as skin improvement, thus supporting their valorization as natural and sustainable new ingredients in skincare products.
6 citations
TL;DR: In this article , the authors evaluated the inhibitory activities of the collagenase and tyrosinase from cashew leaf extracts by developing and evaluating the stability of facial cream formulations.
Abstract: The cashew tree (Anacardium occidentale L.) is a tropical plant found widely in many Southeast Asian countries, including Thailand, and contains bioactive phenolic compounds with antioxidant activity. The natural antioxidants such as collagenase and tyrosinase inhibitors found in medicinal plants are promising agents in cosmetic products. This study evaluated the inhibitory activities of the collagenase and tyrosinase from cashew leaf extracts by developing and evaluating the stability of facial cream formulations. The ethanol (DEN), ethyl acetate (DEA) and distilled water (DDW) crude extracts of cashew leaves were investigated for their bioactive compound efficacy. The DDW extract had the highest yield (24.97%). All the extracts were investigated for their antioxidant activities. The DEN extract showed the highest DPPH radical-scavenging ability, ferric-reducing power and flavonoid compounds, which were 152.04 ± 2.40 mg gallic acid/g extract, 37.90 ± 1.07 mg gallic acid/g dry weight and 7.63 ± 0.07 mg quercetin/g dry weight, respectively. The DDW extract exhibited the highest potent activity, which was 111.00 ± 0.78 mg gallic acid/g dry weight in terms of phenolic content, while the DEN extract showed the highest tyrosinase inhibition at 0.100 mg/mL (46.97 ± 3.34%) and collagenase activity at 40 µg/mL. The results suggested that the ethanolic extracts from cashew leaves showed promise for use in skincare product development. Cosmeceutical formulations for skincare were prepared. The formula mixed with DEN extract and added to whitening and anti-aging skincare cream demonstrated good stability and physical properties.
4 citations
TL;DR: In this article , the safety and efficacy of using microbial pigments in cosmetic products is investigated in the field of cosmetics, as they are ideal for future cosmetics with positive health effects and unique habitats should be explored for novel pigments and new producing strains.
Abstract: Along with serving as a source of color, many microbial pigments have gained attention as interesting bioactive molecules with potential health advantages. These pigments have several applications in the food, agrochemical, medicine, and cosmetic industries. They have attracted the attention of these industries due to their high production value, low cost, stability, and biodegradability. Recently, many consumers worldwide have noted the impact of synthetic dyes; thus, natural pigments are more in demand than synthetic colors. On the other hand, the cosmetic industry has been moving toward greener manufacturing, from the formulation to the packaging material. Microbial pigments have several applications in the field of cosmetics due to their photoprotection, antioxidant, and antiaging properties, including inhibiting melanogenesis and acting as natural colorants for cosmetics, as some microorganisms are rich in pigments. More investigations are required to estimate the safety and efficacy of employing microbial pigments in cosmetic products. Furthermore, it is necessary to obtain information about DNA sequencing, metabolic pathways, and genetic engineering. In addition, unique habitats should be explored for novel pigments and new producing strains. Thus, new microbial pigments could be of consideration to the cosmetic industry, as they are ideal for future cosmetics with positive health effects.
3 citations
TL;DR: In this article , the authors compared the intracanal lateral force and cutting efficiency associated with two engine-driven nickel-titanium (NiTi) systems during root canal shaping.
Abstract: This study aimed to compare the intracanal lateral force and cutting efficiency associated with two engine-driven nickel-titanium (NiTi) systems during root canal shaping. Bovine single-rooted teeth models were assembled to a custom-made splitting force measuring platform while being endodontically treated with rotary (ProTaper Gold [PTG]) or reciprocal systems (WaveOne Gold [WOG]) by two clinicians. The cutting efficiency test was run for each group by a free-falling endomotor on dentin discs for 3 min. The resulting force, files, and stroke force peaks were recorded. Data were analyzed by the Shapiro-Wilk test and ANOVA. Statistical significance was set at alpha = 0.05. Intracanal lateral forces (p < 0.01), cutting efficiency (p < 0.01), and time efficiency (p < 0.01) were significantly different between the NiTi groups. The maximum lateral splitting force was detected using the PTG shaping full-length file (S1) and during the WOG final stroke. Thus, caution is advised when reciprocating single-file systems approach the apical third or when using a large taper and wide-diameter rotatory instruments. The WOG had significantly less maximum horizontal splitting force and significantly greater cutting efficiency but less time efficiency than the PTG system.
2 citations
TL;DR: In this paper , the authors evaluate the bioactive constituents of licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.) that possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and dermatocosmetic activities, and elucidate the dynamics of their molecular targets.
Abstract: The global demand for herbal cosmetics is vastly increasing due to their health benefits and relative safety. Glycyrrhiza spp. extracts are used in cosmetic preparations due to their skin-whitening, antisensitizing, and anti-inflammatory properties. The aim of this work is to computationally evaluate the bioactive constituents of licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.) that possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and dermatocosmetic activities, and elucidate the dynamics of their molecular targets. The used methods are skin permeability prediction, target prediction, molecular docking, and molecular dynamic simulation (MDS). The results show that, at a skin permeation cut-off value of −6.0 cm/s, nine phytoconstituents of licorice (furfuraldehyde, glucoliquiritin apioside, glycyrrhizin, isoliquiritin, licopyranocoumarin, licuraside, liquiritigenin, liquiritin, and liquiritin apioside) were workable. Molecular target prediction results indicate probability for tyrosinase, 11-beta-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase 1 (HSD11B1), monoamine oxidase B, steroid 5-alpha-reductase 1, and cyclo-oxygenase-1. On the basis of molecular docking, glucoliquiritin apioside and glycyrrhizin had the best antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and dermatocosmetic activities. MDS results show that the complexes had good stability, and MMGBSA results indicate that the complexes had satisfactory binding energy. Overall, this study demonstrates that licorice extracts are potential antioxidants that could enhance histological dermal and epidermal properties, and reduce the level of inflammatory and wrinkling markers.
2 citations
TL;DR: In this article , a low-molecular-weight gel made with Boc-L-DOPA(Bn)2-OH was studied as a suitable material to host antioxidants and improve their activity.
Abstract: Antioxidants are important substances used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields that are able to block free radicals. These compounds can be incorporated into formulations for many reasons, such as release over time or preservation of the formulation activity and applicability. In the present study, a low-molecular-weight gel made with Boc-L-DOPA(Bn)2-OH was studied as suitable material to host antioxidants and improve their activity. The solvent change (DMSO/H2O) in combination with temperature was the technological procedure for the preparation of the gel. Two different antioxidants were tested: (1) α-tocopherol and (2) postbiotics. The antioxidant activity of α-tocopherol and of the postbiotics in the gel, measured by the (2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl-hydrazyl radical (DPPH) assay, showed higher values than those in the pure solvent. The antioxidant activity of the gel with 0.8 w/v% of gelator and α-tocopherol in the concentration range of 5–100 µM was 2.7–1.1 times higher on average than in the pure solvent. In the case of both postbiotics, the biggest difference was observed at 30% of postbiotics in the gel with 0.5% of a gelator, when the antioxidant activity was 4.4 to 4.7 times higher than that in the pure solvent.
2 citations
TL;DR: In this paper , the proposed anti-inflammatory properties of C. citratus essential oil (EOCC) in human skin in vivo using the methylnicotinate (MN) microinflammation skin model.
Abstract: Preparations of the Cymbopogon citratus leaves are used in folk medicine for the treatment of inflammatory processes. The present study investigated the proposed anti-inflammatory properties of C. citratus essential oil (EOCC) in human skin in vivo using the methylnicotinate (MN) microinflammation skin model. Skin exposure to MN causes a disturbance that triggers the production of reactive oxygen species and evokes a short duration microinflammatory reaction that might be explored to meet this objective. Fourteen participants of both sexes were selected after providing informed consent. Three areas (3 cm × 3 cm) were drawn on both forearms. One randomly chosen area was treated for 14 days, twice a day, with a polyacrylic acid gel containing 5% EOCC. Remaining areas were used as controls. Results revealed a clear protective effect at the EOCC-treated site. The MN reaction showed significantly lower transepidermal water loss, blood perfusion, erythema, and edema when compared with the other areas. Furthermore, the methodology here proposed is an innovative approach to study the clinical impact of these substances on human skin, contributing to an evidence-based support regarding the interest of using these products in human health.
2 citations
TL;DR: In this article , the main mechanisms of skin aging and potential mechanisms of action for commercial products already on the market are discussed, highlighting the issues related to the permeation of the skin from different classes of compounds, the site of action, and the techniques employed to overcome aging.
Abstract: “Successful aging” counters the traditional idea of aging as a disease and is increasingly equated with minimizing age signs on the skin, face, and body. From this stems the interest in preventative aesthetic dermatology that might help with the healthy aging of skin, help treat or prevent certain cutaneous disorders, such as skin cancer, and help delay skin aging by combining local and systemic methods of therapy, instrumental devices, and invasive procedures. This review will discuss the main mechanisms of skin aging and the potential mechanisms of action for commercial products already on the market, highlighting the issues related to the permeation of the skin from different classes of compounds, the site of action, and the techniques employed to overcome aging. The purpose is to give an overall perspective on the main challenges in formulation development, especially nanoparticle formulations, which aims to defeat or slow down skin aging, and to highlight new market segments, such as matrikines and matrikine-like peptides. In conclusion, by applying enabling technologies such as those delivery systems outlined here, existing agents can be repurposed or fine-tuned, and traditional but unproven treatments can be optimized for efficacious dosing and safety.
2 citations
TL;DR: In this article , the authors present the possible, available and most commonly used methods for obtaining encapsulated fragrances and aromas, which can then be used in various industries.
Abstract: Microencapsulation methods for active substances, such as fragrance compounds and aromas, have long been of interest to researchers. Fragrance compositions and aromas are added to cosmetics, household, and food products. This is often because the choice of a particular product is dictated by its fragrance. Fragrance compositions and aromas are, therefore, a very important part of the composition of these items. During production, when a fragrance composition or aroma is introduced into a system, unfavorable conditions often exist. High temperatures and strong mixing have a detrimental effect on some fragrance compounds. The environments of selected products, such as high- or low-pH surfactants, all affect the fragrance, often destructively. The simple storage of fragrances where they are exposed to light, oxygen, or heat also has an adverse effect. The solution to most of these problems may be the encapsulation process, namely surrounding small fragrance droplets with an inert coating that protects them from the external environment, whether during storage, transport or application, until they are in the right conditions to release the fragrance. The aim of this article was to present the possible, available and most commonly used methods for obtaining encapsulated fragrances and aromas, which can then be used in various industries. In addition, the advantages and disadvantages of each method were pointed out, so that the selection of the appropriate technology for the production of encapsulated fragrances and aromas will be simpler.
2 citations
TL;DR: In this paper , the impact of COVID-19 on human skin is predominantly focused on in this article, including redness, chilblain-like symptoms (COVID toes), hives or urticaria rash, water blisters, and fishing net-like red-blue patterns on the skin.
Abstract: Apart from well-known respiratory symptoms, less frequent symptoms also appear as a direct result of COVID-19 infection, or as indirect effects of the recommended quarantine and related lifestyle changes. The impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on human skin is predominantly focused on in this article. Cutaneous manifestations, including redness, chilblain-like symptoms (COVID toes), hives or urticaria rash, water blisters, and fishing net-like red-blue patterns on the skin, may appear as accompanying or as systemic COVID-19 symptoms with potential lesions at different skin sites. These symptoms were related to skin phototypes and vitamin D deficiency. Moreover, Black, Asian, and minority ethnic origin patients are found to be more sensitive to COVID-19 infection than Caucasians because of vitamin D deficiency. The region of population with lighter skin phototypes have a significantly higher chance to develop cutaneous manifestations than population with dark skin. In addition, adverse effects, such as skin barrier damage and irritation, may also occur due to extensive personal protective equipment usage (e.g., masks, protective suits, and a few others) and predominately alcohol-based sanitizers. This manuscript covers various aspects of COVID-19 and its clinical skin manifestations.
2 citations
TL;DR: In this paper , the potential of incorporating thermal water as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations was demonstrated through in vitro studies evaluating the different activities/properties and clinical trials in healthy volunteers or with skin pathologies.
Abstract: Background: Thermal waters have been showing different beneficial effects on the skin due to their physicochemical composition. The beneficial effect of thermal water in the treatment of some skin diseases may thus justify its use as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations. The main objective of this work was to demonstrate the potential of incorporating thermal water as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations. (2) Methods: A descriptive literature review was carried out by the analysis of scientific articles in PubMed and Google Scholar databases. Twelve thermal spring waters were found (Avène, Blue Lagoon, Comano, Cró, Dead Sea, La Roche-Posay, Monfortinho, Saint-Gervais, Salies-de-Béarn, São Pedro do Sul, Uriage and Vichy) with potential as an active in cosmetic products, demonstrated through in vitro studies evaluating the different activities/properties and clinical trials in healthy volunteers or with skin pathologies. (3) Results: For these studies, in natura thermal water as well as incorporated in cosmetic formulations were used. In in vitro studies, most thermal waters have been shown to have activities on membrane fluidity, skin barrier repair, antiradical, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory properties, proliferative activity, regulation of processes involved in ageing and moisturizing properties. In clinical trials, cosmetic thermal waters reduced skin discomfort through their soothing and exhibited moisturizing and anti-irritant properties. (4) Conclusions: The effect of thermal waters on the skin and the absence of side effects reported in different studies allows them to be used as an adjuvant or in the treatment of various skin disorders and may play an important role in the cosmetics industry. However, further clinical trials are needed to assess their effectiveness and safety.
TL;DR: A comprehensive, systematic online search was conducted in Scopus, PubMed, CINAHL Complete, Cochrane, ScienceDirect, and Web of Science Core Collection as mentioned in this paper , where a total of 2863 articles were retrieved from the databases, and 10 met the eligibility criteria following abstract and full-text screening.
Abstract: Melasma is a challenging chronic skin condition associated with hyperpigmentation and unknown aetiology. This scoping review maps evidence of available treatments and their effectiveness in darker skin types. A comprehensive, systematic online search was conducted in Scopus, PubMed, CINAHL Complete, Cochrane, ScienceDirect, and Web of Science Core Collection. All eligible titles were exported to an EndNote20 library (Clarivate analytics, US), . Thematic content analysis was performed to summarise data on current melasma treatments for darker skin types. The quality of included articles was appraised using the Mixed Methods Appraisal Tool (MMAT) 2018 version. A total of 2863 articles were retrieved from the databases, and 10 met the eligibility criteria following abstract and full-text screening. Our findings demonstrate that topical treatments, chemical peels, lasers, and tranexamic acid are common treatment modalities used in darker skin types. Although these treatments may be effective in the short term, they bring about undesirable side effects and sometimes worsen or result in reoccurrences of melasma. Based on the evidence mapped, current treatment modalities are not suitable for darker skin types. There are very few studies conducted on individuals of African descent. Further research is necessary to investigate treatment interventions that may be user-friendly when dealing with darker skin types.
TL;DR: In this paper , a patient's medical history is important, especially whether their lip lesions are temporary, recurrent, or persistent, and it is also helpful to look for potential concomitant comorbidities and the presence of related diseases/conditions.
Abstract: Lip inflammation may manifest as mainly reversible cheilitis, mainly irreversible, or cheilitis connected to dermatoses or systemic diseases. Therefore, knowing a patient’s medical history is important, especially whether their lip lesions are temporary, recurrent, or persistent. Sometimes temporary contributing factors, such as climate and weather conditions, can be identified and avoided—exposure to extreme weather conditions (e.g., dry, hot, or windy climates) may cause or trigger lip inflammation. Emotional and psychological stress are also mentioned in the etiology of some lip inflammations (e.g., exfoliative cheilitis) and may be associated with nervous habits such as lip licking. To better manage cheilitis, it is also helpful to look for potential concomitant comorbidities and the presence of related diseases/conditions. Some forms of cheilitis accompany dermatologic or systemic diseases (lichen, pemphigus or pemphigoid, erythema multiforme, lupus, angioedema, xerostomia, etc.) that should be uncovered. Occasionally, lip lesions are persistent and involve histological changes: actinic cheilitis, granulomatous cheilitis, glandular cheilitis, and plasmacellular cheilitis. Perioral skin inflammation with simultaneous perioral dermatitis can have various causes: the use of corticosteroids and cosmetics, dysfunction of the skin’s epidermal barrier, a contact reaction to allergens or irritants (e.g., toothpaste, dental fillings), microorganisms (e.g., Demodex spp., Candida albicans, fusiform bacteria), hormonal changes, or an atopic predisposition. Epidermal barrier dysfunction can worsen perioral dermatitis lesions and can also be related to secondary vitamin or mineral deficiencies (e.g., zinc deficiency), occlusive emollient use, sunscreen use, or excessive exposure to environmental factors such as heat, wind, and ultraviolet light. Current trends in research are uncovering valuable information concerning the skin microbiome and disruption of the epidermal barrier of persons suffering from perioral dermatitis. Ultimately, an effective approach to patient management must take all these factors and new research into account.
TL;DR: Sunscreens and photoprotection tools along with consumer habits and behaviors, can mitigate the skin damage caused by excessive solar radiation as discussed by the authors , which is a worldwide public health problem.
Abstract: Sunscreens and photoprotection tools along with consumer habits and behaviors, can mitigate the skin damage caused by excessive solar radiation. For example, protecting oneself in the shade, avoiding inadequate sun exposure at times of higher incidence of UVB radiation (between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m.), wearing clothes with sun protection factors, applying sunscreens at the correct amounts and intervals, and wearing glasses with anti-UVA and UVB lenses are effective measures for protecting an individual. Therefore, the objective of this review was to highlight the importance of photoprotection for all skin phototypes, as skin cancer is a worldwide public health problem. In this review of the scientific literature on the Scopus platform between 2015 and 2022, we addressed the most common behaviors among different individuals and their phototypes, the importance of clarifying population habits against solar radiation, and the use of sunscreens and photoprotection tools to provide advice on healthy and safe sun exposure.
TL;DR: In this paper , a moisturizer was developed, containing an antioxidant active, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, whose sensory characteristics were evaluated by 33 Brazilian women between 30 and 60 years old.
Abstract: One of the most important characteristics of aging skin is dehydration, which is why the use of moisturizing products is very important, especially with increasing age. Thus, the user’s experience when using a product is interesting for the companies to develop specific cosmetics not only considering the physiological needs of each skin, but also according to the preference of a group if there is any. For this, a moisturizer was developed, containing an antioxidant active, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, whose sensory characteristics were evaluated by 33 Brazilian women between 30 and 60 years old. The results showed that the formulation was well accepted by all subjects, regardless of their age group, initial hydration, or the presence of visible signs of skin aging. It is suggested that the presence of the active ingredient in different concentrations caused a different perception of the formula for specific attributes such as the aqueous residue, film formation, and the feelings of oiliness and stickiness to the skin after application. These results suggest that the perception of the sensory characteristics of the product was more related to the nature and proportion of the compounds than to the age of the subjects.
TL;DR: A review of the most commonly used in vitro models for the evaluation of skin aging and cometic products' anti-aging efficacy can be found in this paper , which provides a useful guide for researchers in the field.
Abstract: The skin is the human body’s largest organ and serves as a crucial boundary between the body and the external environment. As a natural process, skin aging cannot be avoided, and it causes changes in the skin’s strength, structure, elasticity, and integrity. Many approaches have been developed over the years to study the skin, including in vivo and in vitro methods. Nevertheless, animal assays have ethical issues and a lack of reproducibility. Hence, in vitro skin models have been increasingly developed and used. For the assessment of the potential of the anti-aging activity of compounds of different origins, the most commonly used in vitro assays are the ones evaluating antioxidant, anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, anti-hyaluronidase, anti-tyrosinase, anti-inflammatory, antiglycation, or moisturizing activity, and the induction of skin cell proliferation/anti-senescence effects or the inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase production. The purpose of this review is to summarize the most commonly used in vitro models for the evaluation of skin aging and cometic products’ anti-aging efficacy, providing a useful guide for researchers in the field. Overall, these assays provide important data on the safety and efficacy of anti-aging compounds, and a foundation for research on and the eventual introduction of formulations into the cosmetics market.
TL;DR: In this article , the antimelanogenic and anti-oxidative effects of N. verrucosum extracts were investigated using real-time quantitative reverse-transcription polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR).
Abstract: Nostoc verrucosum, an edible microalgal species, forms colonies in streams. Here, we investigated the antimelanogenic and anti-oxidative effects of N. verrucosum extracts. We collected N. verrucosum from Toyama Prefecture, Japan, and successfully cultured it in indoor cultivation systems. Aqueous, methanol, and hexane extracts of N. verrucosum were prepared for various experiments. To elucidate the antimelanogenic effects of N. verrucosum, we performed tyrosinase assay, melanin content assay, western blotting, and real-time quantitative reverse-transcription polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR). Anti-oxidative effects were evaluated using the 2,2’-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS) assay. The methanol and hexane extracts significantly inhibited melanin synthesis in B16F1 melanoma cells. Western blotting showed that 12.5 and 25.0 µg/mL N. verrucosum hexane extract suppressed tyrosinase activity. The qRT-PCR analysis revealed that N. verrucosum hexane extract inhibited α-melanocyte stimulating hormone-enhanced tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, TRP-2, and melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R) mRNA expression. On the contrary, N. verrucosum hexane extract did not alter microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (Mitf) transcription. The ABTS assay showed that all extracts had radical scavenging activities, and the IC50 values of the aqueous and methanol extracts were 294.6 and 172.8 µg/mL, respectively. Our findings demonstrate that N. verrucosum is a suitable candidate for the development of antimelanogenic agents, cosmetics, or functional food ingredients.
TL;DR: In this article , a proximal analysis of the sinami seed and its phenolic compounds and their antioxidant activity was performed, which revealed high moisture but low protein, fiber, and lipid content.
Abstract: Sinami (Oenocarpus mapora H. Karst), a native fruit found in the Amazon region of South America, has high nutritional value and is rich in lipids. However, the processing of sinami generates a large volume of agro-industrial waste, mainly composed of seeds. Our research comprises a proximal analysis of the sinami seed and its phenolic compounds and their antioxidant activity. The chemical analysis revealed high moisture but low protein, fiber, and lipid content. Furthermore, the extracts showed high in vitro antioxidant activity against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical IC50 (0.34 ± 0.001 mg/mL) and ABTS IC50 (0.10 ± 0.0002 mg/mL) free radicals. Based on this previous assessment, a gel exfoliant was developed. Since sinami seed powder is a novel ingredient, different formulations were evaluated to determine future incorporation into the cosmetic market. The best exfoliant gel prototype was studied under normal and stressed conditions (40 °C) for 3 months, maintaining a pH value of 5.25 and final viscosities of 700–800 mPa.s and 600–500 mPa.s under normal and stress conditions, respectively. Although unexplored, the sinami seed could be considered a raw material for the cosmetic industry.
TL;DR: In this paper , a cosmeceutical formulation for the eye area with roasted coffee oil microcapsules (MOF) and evaluate the acceptance and effects of its use by consumers is presented.
Abstract: The objective of this work was to characterize a cosmeceutical formulation for the eye area with roasted coffee oil microcapsules (MOF) and evaluate the acceptance and effects of its use by consumers. MOF had 3% microcapsules produced by complex coacervation; a basic formulation (BF) was used for comparison. The addition of microcapsules did not affect the pH (4.52), density (0.99 g mL−1), consistency (0.77 N s), and viscosity index (0.25 N s) of the formulation. However, a reduction in spreadability, firmness, and cohesiveness was observed. The 58 assessors received one kit with the formulations and a notebook with instructions to carry out the tests at home. They were instructed to apply the cream for 28 days and evaluate the attributes of application and treatment effects on 7-point category scales. The effect of oil addition observed in the physical tests was not sensorially perceived for spreadability and tackiness (6.0 and 5.6, respectively), indicating approval and easiness of application. The perception of the benefits (increase in smoothness, hydration, firmness, elasticity, and skin general appearance, and reduction in signs of fatigue and wrinkles/fine lines) was similar comparing MOF and BF. In conclusion, the coffee oil microcapsule is a viable ingredient for dermocosmetics with sensory acceptance.
TL;DR: The therapeutic value of exosomes lies in their ability to modulate the microenvironment of cells, regulate gene expression, and induce cell differentiation, which can have a positive impact on skin health as discussed by the authors .
Abstract: Exosomes are small extracellular nanovesicles that are released by cells, and their potential has been explored for use in cosmetics, skin care, tissue regeneration, and dermatological diseases. The therapeutic value of exosomes lies in their ability to modulate the microenvironment of cells, regulate gene expression, and induce cell differentiation, which can have a positive impact on skin health. In terms of cosmetics, exosomes have been used to reduce wrinkles, improve skin texture and hydration, and enhance skin elasticity, as well as to reduce inflammation and damage caused by UV radiation. Furthermore, exosomes have been used to promote tissue regeneration in skin wounds and to treat dermatological diseases such as systemic lupus erythematosus, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, systemic sclerosis, pigment regulation, vitiligo, and hair growth. In this review, the therapeutic value of exosomes in the field of cosmetics, skin care, tissue regeneration, and dermatological diseases, has been elaborated. The existing literature demonstrated that with further research, exosomes may become a viable therapeutic option for many skin conditions.
TL;DR: In this paper , the authors discuss the possibility of bio-inspired 3D printed microneedles (HMNs) in treating skin wrinkles and compare the previous and current anti-wrinkling treatment options as well as the techniques and challenges involved with its manufacture and commercialization.
Abstract: Skin wrinkles are an inevitable phenomenon that is brought about by aging due to the degradation of scleroprotein fibers and significant collagen reduction, which is the fundamental basis of anti-wrinkle technology in use today. Conventional treatments such as lasering and Botulinum toxin have some drawbacks including allergic skin reactions, cumbersome treatment procedures, and inefficient penetration of the anti-wrinkle products into the skin due to the high resistance of stratum corneum. Bearing this in mind, the cosmetic industry has exploited the patient-compliant technology of microneedles (MNs) to treat skin wrinkles, developing several products based on solid and dissolvable MNs incorporated with antiwrinkle formulations. However, drug administration via these MNs is limited by the high molecular weight of the drugs. Hollow MNs (HMNs) can deliver a wider array of active agents, but that is a relatively unexplored area in the context of antiwrinkle technology. To address this gap, we discuss the possibility of bioinspired 3D printed HMNs in treating skin wrinkles in this paper. We compare the previous and current anti-wrinkling treatment options, as well as the techniques and challenges involved with its manufacture and commercialization.
TL;DR: In this paper , the main phenolic compound present in olive pomace, Hydroxytyrosol, is used to validate its incorporation and may include extraction and further encapsulation of bioactive compounds in order to achieve effective and aesthetic appealing skincare products.
Abstract: The cosmetic industry is continuously searching for new active ingredients in an effort to attend to consumer demands which, in recent years, are focused on more natural and environmentally friendly products, obtained from sustainable resources. Nevertheless, they are required to provide cosmetologically appealing skincare products, ultimately with the purpose of improving skin appearance. The olive oil industry generates a large amount of liquid and semi-solid by-products such as olive pomace. Their phytotoxicity impairs safe disposal, so valorization strategies that promote by-product reuse are needed, which may include skincare products. Hydroxytyrosol is the main phenolic compound present in olive pomace and possesses biological effects that make it a desirable active compound for cosmetic formulations such as antioxidant and anti-aging activities as well as photoprotector, depigmenting, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory actions. Other compounds present in olive pomace can also have functional properties and skin-related benefits. However, the application of this by-product can be a challenge in terms of formulation’s design, stability, and proven efficacy, so appropriate methodologies should be used to validate its incorporation and may include extraction and further encapsulation of bioactive compounds in order to achieve effective and aesthetic appealing skincare products.
TL;DR: In this paper , a review of the particularities of nanomaterials, their influence on human health, challenges towards environmental sustainability, and strategies to harmonize policies with the aim to normalize their application in cosmetics is presented.
Abstract: The use of materials and products that improve appearance and provide comfort and well-being goes back to the beginning of civilization. Cosmetics is an evolving market that has increasingly focused on innovative technological approaches. Nanotechnology is one of the most revolutionary and promising fields for the development of novel and enhanced cosmetic products, owing to the remarkable multifunctional characteristics and effects of nanomaterials (NMs). Their application, however, also raises potential safety concerns. Some of these concerns can be addressed by determining the type of NMs used, as well as their stability, potential for skin absorption, route of exposure, and how they are formulated into cosmetic products. To guarantee such safety, cosmetic products containing NMs, must comply with European regulatory provisions, particularly the European Regulation (EC) n.° 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council. Hence, this review comprises all the particularities of NMs, their influence on human health, challenges towards environmental sustainability, and strategies to harmonize policies with the aim to normalize their application in cosmetics.
TL;DR: In this paper , a three-step modified Delphi technique was used in the consensus process to assess a cosmetic product's tolerability, safety of usage, and pleasantness, and 50 experts for the Delphi panel were chosen to reflect a holistic array of expertise and perspectives in pharmacovigilance, dermatology, and cosmetic safety assessments.
Abstract: Background: Acceptability tests are designed to demonstrate that there is no chance that cosmetics would irritate or distress users in day-to-day situations. Objectives: to develop and validate a tool or scale that dermatologists, general practitioners, and other healthcare professionals can employ to assess a cosmetic product’s tolerability, safety of usage, and pleasantness. Methods: A three-step modified Delphi technique was used in the consensus process. Two rounds of online surveys and a final face-to-face meeting were performed. Fifty experts for the Delphi panel were chosen to reflect a holistic array of expertise and perspectives in pharmacovigilance, dermatology, and cosmetic safety assessments. In round 1, 80 statements and 115 statements related to skin tolerance and cosmetic safety/efficacy, respectively, were distributed to all members of the expert panel. The expert panel was asked to rate the extent to which they agreed with each statement in the questionnaire using a 5-point Likert scale and given a chance to include a remark beside each item. A statement had to receive 80% of the panel’s approval to be accepted. Results: A total of 50 professional experts were recruited in the Delphi questionnaire rounds (response rate = 63%). The expert panel reached a consensus on 30 statements to evaluate skin tolerability and 34 statements to evaluate cosmetic safety and efficacy (agreement rate level ≥ 80%). The experts also proposed a generic, systematic approach that would allow patients to report both functional and physical symptoms in addition to those discovered during an examination (clinical signs). The confrontation of these symptoms determines whether the investigated cosmetic product is ultimately cutaneously acceptable. Conclusion: The tool that was proposed during this study offered good content validity. Future studies are recommended to test the developed tools in practice to evaluate the good skin compatibility and the safety and quality of cosmetics in the UAE and other nations.
TL;DR: In this article , the authors used Rosmarinic acid (RA) in combination with avobenzone (2.5% and 5.0% w/w) to evaluate in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength, photostability, and the in vivo SPF.
Abstract: Innovative prototype sunscreens with reduced ultraviolet (UV) filters are required to achieve safer, more effective, and more environmentally friendly formulations. Rosmarinic acid (RA) is a phenolic antioxidant and potential candidate for multifunctional sunscreens. We used RA (0.1% w/w) in combination with avobenzone (2.5% and 5.0% w/w), a UVA filter, and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (10.0% w/w), a UVB filter, to evaluate in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength, photostability, and the in vivo SPF. RA, in vitro, improved the SPF of F2 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.0% w/w + avobenzone 2.5% w/w + RA 0.1% w/w) and F3 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.0% w/w + avobenzone 5.0% w/w + RA 0.1% w/w), which also presented broad-spectrum profiles; however, no expressive effects were observed for the critical wavelength (nm). By the in vivo trial, RA showed an increment in the F3 SPF value and maintained the F2 effectiveness, even when avobenzone was at 2.5%. Nonetheless, no increase in photostability was observed. Our findings suggest that incorporating natural molecules with antioxidant activities into sunscreens could decrease the proportion of conventional UV filters in the final product, with the advantage of providing other functional properties. Further investigation of higher RA concentrations, even from other sources, and other UV filter combinations could reveal important data for the development of multifunctional sunscreens.
TL;DR: In this article , the authors analyzed the compositions of widely available rinse-off abrasive cosmetics from Polish manufacturers and identified the most common natural raw materials replacing microplastics, including sugar, sodium chloride, and mineral substitute.
Abstract: Microplastics have been widely used in cosmetics and, among other things, very often as an abrasive component in peelings. This type of additive is not the main cause of environmental microplastic contamination, but it can pose a significant threat to the environment and to people. Manufacturers are increasingly taking the decision to withdraw microplastics from cosmetics, replacing them with alternatives, and this is also happening because of legal requirements. The European Chemicals Agency, in 2019, presented a proposal to limit the use of polymer plastics in cosmetic products due to the fact that they may be a potential source of primary microplastics. The final form of the EU regulation is planned for the years 2023–2024. The aim of this study was to analyze the compositions of widely available rinse-off abrasive cosmetics from Polish manufacturers and to identify the most common natural raw materials replacing microplastics. Fifty randomly selected rinse-off products were analyzed for abrasive ingredients in INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) formulations. Among the tested cosmetics, 13 contained microplastics and 49 contained natural abrasive particles, and polyethylene did not appear in any product. The most common vegetable raw material substitute for microplastics was sugar, and sodium chloride was the most common mineral substitute. Compared to previous years, there has been an improvement in the Polish cosmetics market, where manufacturers are increasingly opting for plant-based substitutes for microplastics, but relevant legal regulation is still needed.
TL;DR: In this article , the authors proposed the use of titanium-based patient-specific implants (PSI) along with virtual surgical planning to assess the advantages and the complications in a case of orbital reconstruction.
Abstract: Virtual planning is ideally suited for maxillofacial operations as it allows the surgeon to assess the bony and critical neurovascular structures and enables him to plan osteotomies and fracture reductions. This study aims to propose the use of titanium-based patient-specific implants (PSI), along with virtual surgical planning to assess the advantages and the complications in a case of orbital reconstruction. A three-dimensional model of the skull was generated using computed tomography (CT) data of a female patient using Mimics software (version 19, Materialize, Leuven, Belgium). Numerical PSI models were designed using 3-Matic software (version 13, Materialize, Leuven, Belgium) and the non-affected orbit as a template. Surgical virtual planning showed the suitability of the use of the numerical models in traumatic surgical rehabilitation. Moreover, the digital printing process enabled the trial of the designed PSIs on the patient’s face before the surgery. Reconstruction Biomechanical studies are an essential part of understanding the limits of maxillofacial traumas. The surgical results confirmed the virtual predictions, and the orbital reconstruction seems to be more enhanced and facilitated.
TL;DR: In this article , the root canals of two rotary instrumentation systems, XP-Endo shaper and TRUShape (single file), were instrumented with micro-computed tomography (microCT) scans and images generated by sectioning and observation with a stereomicroscope.
Abstract: This study aimed to determine the incidence of dentinal microcracks after instrumenting the root canals of maxillary premolars using two novel rotary instrumentation systems. Micro-computed tomography (microCT) scans and images generated by sectioning and observation with a stereomicroscope were used to assess the specimens. Twenty-two freshly extracted maxillary premolars were collected and the specimens were divided into two groups of eleven. The tested radicular shaping systems were XP-Endo shaper and TRUShape (i.e., single file). The specimens were scanned with microCT pre- and post-instrumentation, and the newly formed microcracks were detected. The post-instrumentation scans were also compared with images obtained by sectioning method and stereomicroscope inspection, comparing the incidence of microcracks in either microCT scans or images. The results identified an overall incidence of 0.49% of newly formed microcracks, with no statistically significant differences (p = 0.689) between the shaping systems (0.11% for TRUShape and 0.87% for XP-Endo shaper). There were statistically significant differences (p < 0.001) between the microcracks incidence in microCT scans and the sectioning method (16.6% more for the latter). In conclusion, the results show that neither TRUShape nor XP-Endo shaper created dentinal microcracks during root canal instrumentation. The sectioning method with stereomicroscope evaluation overestimates the presence of microcracks with a statistically significant difference compared to microCT scans.
TL;DR: In this paper , the authors developed and characterized a gel formulation comprising Helichrysum italicum essential oil (H. italicum EO) loaded in chitosan nanoparticles (NPs) for dermatological applications.
Abstract: Helichrysum italicum essential oil (H. italicum EO) is recognized for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and wound-healing properties. The main goal of the present work was the development and characterization of a gel formulation comprising H. italicum EO loaded in chitosan nanoparticles (NPs) for dermatological applications. H. italicum EO-loaded chitosan NPs presented hydrodynamic diameter and PdI of about 300 nm and 0.28, respectively, and a surface charge of +19 mV. The H. italicum EO-loaded chitosan NPs were prepared by means of ionic gelation and then incorporated into a thermal water gel formulation. The organoleptic and physicochemical properties of the developed gel were studied. The gel remained stable under accelerated test conditions, maintaining pH, viscosity and organoleptic properties. In addition, the formulation presented pH, viscosity and spreadability properties suitable for topical application. Finally, the performance of the gel in topical application was evaluated on the skin of volunteers using non-invasive methods, particularly, by means of biometric evaluation. These assays showed that the properties of the developed thermal water-based gel formulation with H. italicum EO-loaded chitosan NPs can improve skin hydration and maintain healthy skin conditions, demonstrating its putative role for distinct dermatological applications.
TL;DR: Wang et al. as mentioned in this paper reviewed two potential action modes of Dead Sea water and its biological function in dermatology and skin care, and showed that the anti-aging effect of DSW and related complexes can act in three different ways: keratinocyte rejuvenation, photo-protection, and cellular energy elevation.
Abstract: Applying natural mineral water to skin care is a popular tendency and many cosmetics products based on thermal spring water have been developed. The special location and environmental conditions provide Dead Sea water (DSW) with unique ion composition and concentrations, which bring comprehensive positive effects on skin health. This article reviews two potential action modes of DSW, and the biological function of DSW and its related complex in dermatology and skin care. Previous studies have proved the functions of skin moisturization, anti-inflammation, skin barrier repair, and anti-pollution. Especially, the anti-aging effect of DSW and related complexes can act in three different ways: keratinocyte rejuvenation, photo-protection, and cellular energy elevation. Additionally, the issues that need further investigation are also discussed. We hope that this review will help to improve the understanding of DSW and its related complex, and further contribute to product development in the skincare industry.