Showing papers in "Journal of The Textile Institute in 1974"
TL;DR: Negatively charged titanium and zirconium complexes with α-hydroxy carboxylic acids and fluorides can be exhausted on the positively charged wool fibre in acid conditions, the result being a significant improvement in the natural flame-resistance of wool that is fast to washing and dry-cleaning as discussed by the authors.
Abstract: Negatively charged titanium and zirconium complexes with α-hydroxy carboxylic acids and fluorides can be exhausted on the positively charged wool fibre in acid conditions, the result being a significant improvement in the natural flame-resistance of wool that is fast to washing and dry-cleaning. The complexes with carboxylic acids are exhausted on the wool fibre at the boil, whereas the fluoride complexes can be effectively exhausted at lower temperatures. The fluoride complexes can also be applied by a pad-batch-rinse-dry technique. Titanium complexes are more effective than the zirconium ones, probably because of better penetration of the fibre with the smaller titanium complexes. However, titanium complexes cause yellowing of wool, which increases with light exposure. Zirconium complexes do not affect the shade of wool and are fast to light.
61 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, an attempt was made to characterize the compression properties of fiber masses in terms of two independent parameters, κY and ρ0, derived from van Wyk's theory of fibrous compression.
Abstract: An attempt is made to characterize the compression properties of fibre masses in terms of two independent parameters,κY and ρ0 derived from van Wyk's theory of fibrous compression. For the wide range of wool samples examined, the compression characteristics are dominated by the κY parameter, the ρ0 parameter having little effect in distinguishing between different wools.
41 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the load-extension curves for fabric extension in the course direction were calculated theoretically by means of a two-dimensional model of the plain-knitted structure, and it was found that the intial portions of these curves were almost linear but the slope could be greatly affected by the occurrence of lateral yarn compression.
Abstract: An investigation is described in which, by means of a two-dimensional model of the plain-knitted structure, load-extension curves for extension in the course direction were calculated theoretically. It was assumed initially that the only mechanism of fabric extension was elastic deformation of the loop shape. Account was taken of setting of the yarns into the relaxed-loop shape, but this was found not to have any significant effect on the theoretical load–extension curves. It was found that the intial portions of these curves were almost linear but that the slope could be greatly affected by the occurrence of lateral yarn compression. When yarn compression was taken into account, good agreement was obtained with experimental results for a nylon-monofilament fabric and a series of wool plain-knitted fabrics.
40 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the effects of the method of conversion of a fiber web into a nonwoven fabric and of various constructional parameters on the air-permeability of the resultant fabric were investigated.
Abstract: A study is reported of the effects of the method of conversion of a fibre web into a non-woven fabric and of various constructional parameters on the air-permeability of the resultant fabric. It is shown that, within the ranges of measurement made, the factor most closely related to the air-permeability was the fabric weight per unit area and that the air-permeability was almost directly proportional to the reciprocal of the weight per unit area.
38 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors measured the fiber-packing density in the cross-section of a range of wool worsted yarns and found that these are slightly hollow at the core, with the maximum packing density occurring about one-quarter of the yarn radius from the yarn axis.
Abstract: Measurement of the fibre-packing density in the cross-section of a range of wool worsted yarns indicates that these are slightly hollow at the core, with the maximum packing density occurring about one-quarter of the yarn radius from the yarn axis. A comparison of these results with those obtained on cotton-viscose rayon yarns by other workers is also made.
30 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a general geometrical model based on the assumption of a constant unit-cell configuration for a particular knitted construction and derived by the present author in a previous publication is applied to plain, interlock, and various rib-knitted constructions to enable simple relations to be derived for the effective diameter and specific volume of the yarn as it exists within the fabric, the fabric thickness, and the bulk density of the structure.
Abstract: A general geometrical model, based on the assumption of a constant unit-cell configuration for a particular knitted construction and derived by the present author in a previous publication is applied to plain, interlock, and various rib-knitted constructions to enable simple relations to be derived for the effective diameter and specific volume of the yarn as it exists within the fabric, the fabric thickness, and the bulk density of the structure. The relations between these parameters and the fabric tightness factor are evaluated quantitatively for fabrics knitted from wool yarns. The knitted-fabric parameters evaluated in this paper are difficult to measure experimentally. The geometrical approach used gives an assessment that is independent of the problems encountered during experimental measurements of such parameters as fabric thickness and yarn diameter.
25 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a torsion-balance apparatus incorporating a photopotentiometer device and developed to study the torsional-hysteresis and torque-relaxation behavior of both monofilament and multifilament yarns under conditions of constant tension was described.
Abstract: A torsion-balance apparatus, incorporating a photopotentiometer device and developed to study the torsional-hysteresis and torque-relaxation behaviour of both monofilament and multifilament yarns under conditions of constant tension, is described. Differences in the shape of the torsional-hysteresis curves are studied for nylon monofilament and multifilament yarns, these differences in shape are related to friction effects and to the mechanical properties of the constituent filaments.
24 citations
TL;DR: Banana-plant fibre (Musa sapientum) is strong, soft, and coarse, and a technique developed for processing the fibre on standard jute machinery after stapling it to 20 cm is reported as mentioned in this paper.
Abstract: Banana-plant fibre (Musa sapientum) is strong, soft, and coarse, and a technique developed for processing the fibre on standard jute machinery after stapling it to 20 cm is reported. In some trials, the fibre was blended with jute and mesta. A disadvantage was that the yarn was hairy, but hessian and sacking fabrics woven with banana-fibre yarn as weft or warp and with jute yarn in the other direction complied with standard specifications and looked brighter and dyed better than corresponding all-jute fabrics.
24 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the effect of the fluorozirconate application on wool was investigated and it was shown that Wool treated with isopolytungstates discolours on exposure to light, whereas with some heteropolytsaints no discoloration occurs.
Abstract: Isopolytungstates and heteropolytungstates improve the flame-resistant effect of the fluorozirconate application on wool. Wool treated with isopolytungstates discolours on exposure to light, whereas with some heteropolytungstates no discoloration occurs. The zirconium–tungsten applications are suitable for wool treated by chemical shrink-resist treatments, which has a slightly decreased flame-resistance owing to partial degradation of the fibres. Fully washable and flame-resist wool can be achieved by the application of resins with a similar or higher LOI value than wool and by treating the fibre with zirconium and tungsten complexes. Wool-bleaching is compatible with a zirconium after-treatment. The zirconium and titanium complexes are compatible with mothproofing and water- and oil-repellent agents, and in some cases a one-bath application is possible to achieve various multi-purpose finishes.
24 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, a simplified kinetic model describing the mechanism of pilling is proposed, which involves only three parameters, which relate to the main stages of the process: the total number of pills, the rate of pill formation, and the rates of pill wear-off.
Abstract: A simplified kinetic model describing the mechanism of pilling is proposed. This model involves only three parameters, which relate to the main stages of the process: the total number of pills, the rate of pill formation, and the rate of pill wear-off. These parameters can easily be calculated from the pill curve of the fabric. The published literature and the authors' own data are used to check the range of application of the proposed model.
21 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, a theoretical analysis of the load-extension behavior of plain-knitted fabrics for the case in which extension takes place parallel to the wales is made by examining the deformation of the three-dimensional loop shape.
Abstract: A theoretical analysis is made of the load-extension behaviour of plain-knitted fabrics for the case in which extension takes place parallel to the wales. The analysis is performed by examining the deformation of the three-dimensional loop shape, this shape having been described in a previous paper. The calculated values of the initial tensile modulus are compared with those obtained experimentally from a series of wool fabrics. The theoretical values are lower (though of the correct order of magnitude) than the experimental values; this effect is explained by frictional resistance to yarn slippage.
TL;DR: In this paper, an equation for predicting the lea strength of ring-spun cotton yarns is evolved by correlating a function of the leas strength, namely. Bogdan's intrinsic strength parameter, P, with an integrated fibre-quality index, Q, the regression coefficients being allowed to account for the effect of the spinning conditions.
Abstract: An equation for predicting the lea strength of ring-spun cotton yarns is evolved by correlating a function of the lea strength, namely. Bogdan's intrinsic-strength parameter, P, with an integrated fibre-quality index, Q, the regression coefficients being allowed to account for the effect of the spinning conditions. The equation is shown to be a good fit for a wide range of cotton yarns, spun under different spinning conditions. It overcomes many of the drawbacks of the linear-multiple-regression equations and some of the earlier curvilinear equations. A possible improvement of the new equation is also suggested.
TL;DR: In this paper, the extensional, bending, and twisting strains of seven fibres were measured in a wool worsted fabric deformed in a multiple-pleat tester.
Abstract: Experiments are described in which the extensional, bending, and twisting strains of seven fibres were measured in a wool worsted fabric deformed in a multiple-pleat tester. The only significant strain appeared to be the bending strain.
TL;DR: The yarn torque developed by the applied tension in the torsion-balance apparatus described in Part 1 of this series is calculated by using an expression derived in an earlier paper as discussed by the authors.
Abstract: The yarn torque developed by the applied tension in the torsion-balance apparatus described in Part 1 of this series is calculated by using an expression derived in an earlier paper. Differences in shape of net-torque–twist curves are studied for nylon monofilaments and model plied yarns; these differences in shape are related to friction effects and to the mechanical properties of the constituent filaments. The torsional rigidity of the yarns is evaluated from the initial slope of the torque–twist curves for a series of nylon monofilaments; the torsional rigidity and torsional modulus are also calculated from the load–extension curve of a closely wound helical spring by employing the classical theory of elasticity.
TL;DR: In this article, the authors describe a rope-making with banana-plant fibres. But they do not specify the type of fibres used in their work. The Journal of The Textile Institute: Vol. 65, No. 11, pp. 612-615
Abstract: (1974). Rope-making with Banana-plant Fibre. The Journal of The Textile Institute: Vol. 65, No. 11, pp. 612-615.
TL;DR: In this paper, the Wrinkleresistance of Wool Fabrics Treated with External Polymers is investigated. But they do not discuss the effect of external polymers on the texture of the fabrics.
Abstract: (1974). The Wrinkle-resistance of Wool Fabrics Treated with External Polymers. The Journal of The Textile Institute: Vol. 65, No. 12, pp. 660-661.
TL;DR: The relation between the Drafting Force, Draft, and Setting in the Roller-drafting of Staple-fibre Slivers was discussed in this article, with a focus on the role of women.
Abstract: (1974). The Relation between the Drafting Force, Draft, and Setting in the Roller-drafting of Staple-fibre Slivers. The Journal of The Textile Institute: Vol. 65, No. 6, pp. 325-327.
TL;DR: In this paper, the Shirley Bending-hysteresis Tester for low curvature (0.5 mm−1) for use at higher curvatures (5 mm −1) is described, and with its aid the contributions made by the frictional and fibre-viscoelastic deformations to non-recovery of a bent woven fabric are separated quantitatively.
Abstract: The modification of the Shirley Bending-hysteresis Tester for low curvature (0.5 mm−1) for use at higher curvatures (5 mm−1) is described, and with its aid the contributions made by the frictional and fibre-viscoelastic deformations to non-recovery of a bent woven fabric are separated quantitatively. A study of the bending behaviour of component yarns is also reported.
TL;DR: In this paper, a study of the behaviour of three basic wool weft-knitted structures when subjected to "shear at constant length of sides" was conducted, and it was found that all the weft knitted structures studied had a relatively low over-all shear-resistance when compared with other textile structures, such as woven and non-woven fabrics.
Abstract: An account is given of a study of the behaviour of three basic wool weft-knitted structures when subjected to ‘shear at constant length of sides’. It was found that all the weft-knitted structures studied had a relatively low over-all shear-resistance when compared with other textile structures, such as woven and non-woven fabrics. This low over-all resistance was found to be a combination of a relatively large frictional restraint and a very low resistance once frictional slippage had started. These and other effects are discussed in terms of the geometrical changes occurring within the knitted unit cell during shearing.
TL;DR: In this article, the tensioning-measuring technique is described and the statistical basis for the mathematical equations outlined, and some typical results are included, as well as some typical typical results of tensioning.
Abstract: Modifications are made to equations proposed by earlier workers so that they more closely approximate to new measurements made under simulated practical conditions with small knitting elements. The tensioning-measuring technique is described and the statistical basis for the mathematical equations outlined, and some typical results are included.
TL;DR: In this paper, the effect of the depth of penetration on needled-fabric structure and tensile properties is investigated. And the authors show that the maximum fabric strength from a given web can be obtained by using needles with only three barbs if the depth-of- penetration is adjusted.
Abstract: The various known effects of the depth of penetration on needled-fabric structure and tensile properties are considered New experiments are introduced that involve needling the same web by using needles having differing numbers of barbs These experiments show changes in fabric tenacity related to alterations in barb positions within the web It is shown that the maximum fabric strength from a given web can be obtained by using needles with only three barbs if the depth of penetration is adjusted; these results lead to the idea that the depth of penetration can increase the fabric strength by an indirect reorientation mechanism in addition to the direct method owing to more barbs entering a web The relative importance and interaction of these two mechanisms are discussed
TL;DR: In this paper, the relationship between the moisture content of a fabric and that of the air in equilibrium with it is demonstrated, enabling a simpler and more accurate control system for fabric-drying in tenters to be devised.
Abstract: An account is given of an investigation of the relationship between regain, dewpoint temperature, and air temperature for a range of fabrics at three different air temperatures. The existence of a relationship between the moisture content of a fabric and that of the air in equilibrium with it is demonstrated. This fact will enable a simpler and more accurate control system for fabric-drying in tenters to be devised.
TL;DR: In this article, an investigation of methods for the fractionation of solvent-extracted wool grease into distinct nonpolar, semi-polar and highly polar groups is given.
Abstract: An account is given of an investigation of methods for the fractionation of solvent-extracted wool grease into distinct non-polar, semi-polar, and highly polar groups. The non-polar fraction is conventionally referred to as unoxidized grease and the semi-polar fractions are referred to as oxidized grease. The highly polar fraction possesses strong surface-active properties and is not identified forthwith as being strictly a part of the grease constituent of raw wool. The methods were applied to determine quantitatively the extent of oxidation of a wool grease and the amount of amphiphilic or surface-active matter, including synthetic detergents, extracted by the solvent from a wool sample or an aliquot of an aqueous emulsion. In addition, it is demonstrated that the amount of methanol-insoluble matter in solvent-extracted wool grease is closely related to, and could be used to predict, the maximum efficiency of recovery of grease in a centrifuge.
TL;DR: In this article, the dimensional properties of five double-jersey structures, made from shrink-resist-treated worsted yarns and knitted under very different machine conditions at the optimum tightness factor (K = approximately 15), were investigated in various relaxed states, including the fully laundered condition, or the "completely relaxed" stable state.
Abstract: An account is given of a study in which the dimensional properties of five popular double-jersey structures, made from shrink-resist-treated worsted yarns and knitted under very different machine conditions at the optimum tightness factor (K = approximately 15), were investigated in various relaxed states, including the fully laundered condition, or the ‘completely relaxed’ stable state. In the initial experiment, the machine variables chosen—take-down tension, stretcher-board width, and dial height—were altered selectively to give the maximum distortion to the structural knitted cell (SKC) at the knitting stage. This experimental procedure was repeated in the second experiment at a variety of run-in ratios (but at the same average K value) for three structures: Punto-di-Roma and Swiss and French double pique. Whereas the machine variables markedly influence the linear (i.e., length and width) dimensions of all structures off the machine, and noticeably after steam relaxation, linear dimensions after furt...
TL;DR: In this article, the Elrepho Tristimulus Colorimeter (ELTRimulus) was used to measure the whiteness of scoured wool, and the effect of repeated measurement was also investigated.
Abstract: The whiteness of scoured wool is an important selling point and is capable of being measured and included in a specification. An account is given in this paper of an investigation in which the following factors influencing the reflectance of loose wool were examined on an Elrepho Tristimulus Colorimeter, a specially constructed cell with a quartz-glass window being used: regain, fibre length, packing density, and sample thickness. Wools of different mean fibre diameters and grease contents were examined, and the effect of repeated measurement was also investigated. The results indicate that the precision of measurement is highest when cored or cut-up wool is used at a packing density of about 0.3 g/cm3 or more, with a sample thickness of at least 4.5 mm. The technique of repeated carding and measurement of the same small sample is not recommended as a method of improving precision.