Journal ArticleDOI
Diffraction of Waves by Shore-Connected Breakwater
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The diffraction diagrams commonly used by coastal engineers to determine the shelter afforded by a shore-connected breakwater are generally based upon Sommerfeld's exact solution, with only limited experimental data to define the range of applicability as mentioned in this paper.Abstract:
The diffraction diagrams commonly used by coastal engineers to determine the shelter afforded by a shore-connected breakwater are generally based upon Sommerfeld’s exact solution, with only limited experimental data to define the range of applicability. In order to establish this range more precisely, wave-height distributions in the shadow-zone of an impermeable shore-connected breakwater, 30-ft (9-m) in length, were measured in a large hydraulic-model basin and compared to Sommerfeld’s solution. The influence of a wave-splitter plate and energy dissipation on the structure were studied in experiments with the wave generator running continuously and also intermittently (stop-start). Detailed diffraction profiles were obtained both near the structure and at great distances, as far as 22 wavelengths from the breakwater. Long-crested regular waves were generated and found to be significantly non-uniform in height along the 65-ft (19.5-m) crest line under all conditions.read more
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Journal ArticleDOI
Numerical model of the shoreline change at Oarai beach
Nicholas C. Kraus,Soichi Harikai +1 more
TL;DR: Kraus et al. as mentioned in this paper made a numerical simulation of the long-term shoreline evolution of the sandy beach adjacent to Oarai Harbor, Japan and verified the model's predictive capability.
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Breakwater Gap Wave Diffraction: an Experimental and Numerical Study
John D. Pos,Frederic A. Kilner +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, the authors investigated the effect of wave steepness differences along the crests of breakwater gap configurations with gap-to-wavelength (B/L) ratios of 1.64, 1.41 and 1.50.
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Evaluation of Two Numerical Wave Models with Inlet Physical Model
Lihwa Lin,Zeki Demirbilek +1 more
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Journal ArticleDOI
Estimate of Breaking Wave Height Behind Structures
TL;DR: In this paper, a simple and computationally simple method is given for estimating the wave breaker height and angle behind structures on a uniformly sloping bottom. But this method is based on the assumption that the breaking wave height behind a structure is proportional to the product of refraction, shoaling and diffraction coefficients with the incident wave height at the tip of the obstacle.
Journal ArticleDOI
Asymmetrical breakwater gap wave diffraction using finite and infinite elements
TL;DR: In this paper, the wave heights of waves diffracting into a model basin of infinite extent were simulated and measured using short range photogrammetric techniques using the finite and infinite element program "WAVE".