Shear instabilities of the mean longshore current: 2. Field observations

TLDR: In this article, a new wave with periods and alongshore wavelengths of the order of 102 seconds and meters, respectively, was observed in the surf zone and was consistent with a model of vorticity waves generated by the shear instability of the mean longshore current.

Abstract: A new type of alongshore progressive wave with periods and alongshore wavelengths of the order of 102 seconds and meters, respectively, has been observed in the surf zone. These periods fall into the lower end of the much studied infragravity frequency band previously shown to contain surface gravity edge and leaky waves. However, their short wavelengths (more than an order of magnitude smaller than the mode 0 edge wave) distinguish these new waves from surface gravity waves. In addition, they are only observed in the presence of mean longshore current and they change celerity (O(1 m/s)) and direction with the mean current. Alongshore wavenumber-frequency spectra clearly identify these waves, distinct from edge and leaky waves, by their approximately linear dispersion line at wavenumbers greater than the mode 0 edge wave dispersion curve. Their rms horizontal velocities can exceed 30 cm/s. These waves are shown to be consistent with a model [Bowen and Holman, this issue] of vorticity waves generated by the shear instability of the mean longshore current.