Wind speeds over the world’s oceans have increased over the past two decades, as have wave heights. Studies of climate change typically consider measurements or predictions of temperature over extended periods of time. Climate, however, is much more than temperature. Over the oceans, changes in wind speed and the surface gravity waves generated by such winds play an important role. We used a 23-year database of calibrated and validated satellite altimeter measurements to investigate global changes in oceanic wind speed and wave height over this period. We find a general global trend of increasing values of wind speed and, to a lesser degree, wave height, over this period. The rate of increase is greater for extreme events as compared to the mean condition.

https://researchbank.swinburne.edu.au/file/bca43746-6f16-4ad2-a4b7-27f8d8d60fed/1/PDF (Published version).pdf

Global trends in wind speed and wave height over the past 25 years

Correlation of sidescan backscatter with grain size distribution of surficial seabed sediments

http://ecite.utas.edu.au/141411/1/141411%20-%20Identifying%20the%20consequences%20of%20ocean%20sprawl%20for%20sedimentary%20habitats.pdf

Identifying the consequences of ocean sprawl for sedimentary habitats

What has happened to coastal dunes in the last half century? A multitemporal coastal landscape analysis in Central Italy

Shoreline variability via empirical orthogonal function analysis: Part I temporal and spatial characteristics

Extensive Spanish dune areas were totally altered and destroyed in the course of massive tourist urbanization and road construction projects during the 1960's–1970's. Littoral drift interruption by harbour and marinas as well as sand mining for construction and agriculture purposes also contributed to accelerated dune erosion. Furthermore, human trampling, refuse dumping, excessive dune recreational pressure, use of all-terrain vehicles and cropping, are amongst the main causes contributing and accelerating physical and ecological degradation of most Spanish dune systems. Before 1988, Spanish coastal dunes were totally unprotected. The 1988 Spanish Shore Act (“Ley de Costas”) arose with the aim of regulating the coastal activities and preventing littoral destruction. The Spanish Shore Act protects all coastal dunes precludes their destruction by sand mining and any other form of development, . However, this law still does not prevent some of the above negative activities occuring. Furthermore, th...

https://bioone.org/journals/journal-of-coastal-research/volume-36/issue-sp1/1551-5036-36.sp1.325/Sand-dune-management-problems-and-techniques-Spain/10.2112/1551-5036-36.sp1.325.pdf

Sand dune management problems and techniques, Spain.

Cost of beach maintenance in the Gulf of Cadiz (SW Spain)

Comparison of long-, medium- and short-term variations of beach profiles with and without submerged geological control

A beach equilibrium model for reef-protected beaches is presented. The profiles analyzed in this work intersect a reef and, consequently, the entire profile is not sand rich. The model assumes uniform energy dissipation per unit volume and considers the wave decay due to the wave breaking over the submerged reef. The resulting beach profile form is similar to the one proposed by LARSON and KRAUS (1989); however, the profile shape parameter is not the same as the A value used in the usual DEAN (1977) equilibrium profile, due to the wave decay dependence. A simple relationship between the new shape parameter for reef-protected beaches and the A value for non-reef-protected beaches is   determined using the ANDERSEN and FREDSOE (1983) wave decay model. The proposed relationship is validated using over 50 profiles measured on seven beaches. It is concluded that the shape parameter usually used in equilibrium profile models can not be represented in all cases by a simple function of the sediment grain size or fall velocity. It is also concluded that no equilibrium beach profile is possible within a distance of about 10 to 30 h, from the edge of the reef, where h, is the water depth over the reef.

/pdf/equilibrium-beach-profile-model-for-reef-protected-beaches-4nrzrx2jf4.pdf

Equilibrium Beach Profile Model for Reef-Protected Beaches

https://dspace.stir.ac.uk/bitstream/1893/31107/1/Gallop_etal_2020_AcceptedManuscript.pdf

Juan J. Muñoz-Perez

Papers

Sand dune management problems and techniques, Spain.

Cost of beach maintenance in the Gulf of Cadiz (SW Spain)

Comparison of long-, medium- and short-term variations of beach profiles with and without submerged geological control

Equilibrium Beach Profile Model for Reef-Protected Beaches

Geologically Controlled Sandy Beaches: Their Geomorphology, Morphodynamics and Classification