Wind speeds over the world’s oceans have increased over the past two decades, as have wave heights. Studies of climate change typically consider measurements or predictions of temperature over extended periods of time. Climate, however, is much more than temperature. Over the oceans, changes in wind speed and the surface gravity waves generated by such winds play an important role. We used a 23-year database of calibrated and validated satellite altimeter measurements to investigate global changes in oceanic wind speed and wave height over this period. We find a general global trend of increasing values of wind speed and, to a lesser degree, wave height, over this period. The rate of increase is greater for extreme events as compared to the mean condition.

https://researchbank.swinburne.edu.au/file/bca43746-6f16-4ad2-a4b7-27f8d8d60fed/1/PDF (Published version).pdf

Global trends in wind speed and wave height over the past 25 years

Correlation of sidescan backscatter with grain size distribution of surficial seabed sediments

http://ecite.utas.edu.au/141411/1/141411%20-%20Identifying%20the%20consequences%20of%20ocean%20sprawl%20for%20sedimentary%20habitats.pdf

Identifying the consequences of ocean sprawl for sedimentary habitats

What has happened to coastal dunes in the last half century? A multitemporal coastal landscape analysis in Central Italy

Shoreline variability via empirical orthogonal function analysis: Part I temporal and spatial characteristics

A critical review of beach restoration projects in the northern coast of cadiz (spain) after thirteen years

Lessons for a technical subject were explained in videos which were later uploaded to YouTube and to a virtual classroom within the Marine Science BSc degree. In this way, these files, complemented with ppt slide presentations, were also useful for the Erasmus students with a low level of Spanish. Finally, some online questionnaires were also uploaded in order to allow the users check by themselves their knowledge. The different steps of the followed methodology are explained and screenshots of the virtual are also displayed. The use of Moodle was therefore highly encouraged and the results of a survey conducted by the teachers of the course showed the utility of the technique proposed herein.

/pdf/audiovisual-resources-as-a-useful-tool-to-improve-the-31xwba8dtm.pdf

Audiovisual resources as a useful tool to improve the teaching of coastal engineering (marine science bsc degree)

Wind forecasts are widely spread because of the growth in wind power, but also because there are other applications to consider, such as the long-term scenario forecasts regarding the effects of global warming. Overall, there have been big developments in global circulation models (GCM) that inform future scenarios at the large scale, but wind forecast at a local scale is a problem that has not totally been solved. It should be possible to estimate the winds in the near field with a certain accuracy, which is interesting for aspects such as the blowing of incident wind at wind farms, the wind on a dune in movement, or the wind blowing in a harbour. Therefore, a data-driven wind transference equation at a local scale is needed. Among the conclusions, it is worthy to state that the statistical downscaling techniques are suitable for application as a statistical inference at small scales. The aim of this paper is therefore to review the current methods and techniques used and show the different methodologies and their applications in the field. Additional targets will be to identify the advantages, disadvantages, or limitations of the current models at the local scale and propose research to find possible improvements.

https://www.mdpi.com/2077-1312/9/3/318/pdf

Review of Wind Models at a Local Scale: Advantages and Disadvantages

MUNOZ-PEREZ, J.J.; CABALLERO, I.; TEJEDOR, B., and GOMEZ-PINA, G., 2010. Reversal in longshore sediment transport without variations in wave power direction. Journal of Coastal Research, 26(4), 780-786. West Palm Beach (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The mouth of the Guadiaro River (SW Spain), oriented in a NE-SW direction, is often closed, resulting in environmental, social, and economic problems. An analysis of the factors influencing this phenomenon was performed using the Coastal Modeling System, a numerical model based on the mild slope equation (waves, currents, and sediment transport), and a coastal evolution study was performed comparing aerial photographs to the monitoring campaigns carried out in 2005 and 2006 (topographic surveys, current meters, tidal gauges, and water quality parameters). Global transport at the Spanish south Mediterranean coast occurs in a southwestern direction. However, the spit that closes the Guadiaro River grows in the opposite direction. The points and conditions where transport direction changes occur along the coastline were identified. The results, obtained from 200 different propagations, were consistent with field data, showing that northeastern littoral transport during easterly waves was sufficient to block the river mouth. Furthermore, significant differences in sediment transport patterns were found despite the existence of a fixed wave power direction. Through this research we also learned that use of wave propagation numerical models by nonexperts is prone to error, as small variations in input parameters can induce dramatically different results that may be contradictory in certain bathymetric configurations.

https://bioone.org/journals/journal-of-coastal-research/volume-2010/issue-264/08-1141.1/Reversal-in-Longshore-Sediment-Transport-without-Variations-in-Wave-Power/10.2112/08-1141.1.pdf

Reversal in Longshore Sediment Transport without Variations in Wave Power Direction

A real-time system for monitoring the dry weight contained in the hopper of a given dredge has been both designed and tested. Among the system's most outstanding features, the following may be mentioned: it is of economical acquisition, can easily be set up in a brief period of time, and works independently from any other control systems incorporated into the dredge by the contractor. Moreover, its displacement is determined uninterruptedly. Ultrasound transducers are located on deck for the precise monitoring of cargo volume, and the data are collected through a personal computer and sent, via modem, to the client. The difference between automatic measuring and the standard manual system appeared to have a mean value of 5%. The content of solid matter in the hopper was 53%. Although this system has proven itself fully operative, certain protective measures have to be taken to shield those components exposed to rough maneuvering before the technical supervisors and controllers leave off.

Juan J. Muñoz-Perez

Papers

A critical review of beach restoration projects in the northern coast of cadiz (spain) after thirteen years

Audiovisual resources as a useful tool to improve the teaching of coastal engineering (marine science bsc degree)

Review of Wind Models at a Local Scale: Advantages and Disadvantages

Reversal in Longshore Sediment Transport without Variations in Wave Power Direction

Portable Meter System for Dry Weight Control in Dredging Hoppers