A third-generation numerical wave model to compute random, short-crested waves in coastal regions with shallow water and ambient currents (Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)) has been developed, implemented, and validated. The model is based on a Eulerian formulation of the discrete spectral balance of action density that accounts for refractive propagation over arbitrary bathymetry and current fields. It is driven by boundary conditions and local winds. As in other third-generation wave models, the processes of wind generation, whitecapping, quadruplet wave-wave interactions, and bottom dissipation are represented explicitly. In SWAN, triad wave-wave interactions and depth-induced wave breaking are added. In contrast to other third-generation wave models, the numerical propagation scheme is implicit, which implies that the computations are more economic in shallow water. The model results agree well with analytical solutions, laboratory observations, and (generalized) field observations.

/pdf/a-third-generation-wave-model-for-coastal-regions-1-model-37o6uqb942.pdf

A third-generation wave model for coastal regions: 1. Model description and validation

to be done in this area. Face recognition is a problem that scarcely clamoured for attention before the computer age but, having surfaced, has involved a wide range of techniques and has attracted the attention of some fine minds (David Mumford was a Fields Medallist in 1974). This singular application of mathematical modelling to a messy applied problem of obvious utility and importance but with no unique solution is a pretty one to share with students: perhaps, returning to the source of our opening quotation, we may invert Duncan's earlier observation, 'There is an art to find the mind's construction in the face!'.

Linear and nonlinear waves, by G. B. Whitham. Pp.636. £50. 1999. ISBN 0 471 35942 4 (Wiley).

https://oss.deltares.nl/documents/48999/59759/Roelvink_2009.pdf

Modelling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands

User manual and system documentation of WAVEWATCH III R version 4.18

The Observatoire pour la Mineralogie, l'Eau, les Glaces, et l'Activite (OMEGA) investigation, on board the European Space Agency Mars Express mission, is mapping the surface composition of Mars at a 0.3- to 5-kilometer resolution by means of visible-near-infrared hyperspectral reflectance imagery. The data acquired during the first 9 months of the mission already reveal a diverse and complex surface mineralogy, offering key insights into the evolution of Mars. OMEGA has identified and mapped mafic iron-bearing silicates of both the northern and southern crust, localized concentrations of hydrated phyllosilicates and sulfates but no carbonates, and ices and frosts with a water-ice composition of the north polar perennial cap, as for the south cap, covered by a thin carbon dioxide-ice veneer.

http://www.planetary.brown.edu/pdfs/3395.pdf

Mars surface diversity as revealed by the OMEGA/Mars Express observations.

http://eng.serdarbeji.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/Beji-Battjes-Coastal-Eng-93.pdf

Experimental investigation of wave propagation over a bar

Nonlinear saturation-based whitecapping dissipation in SWAN for deep and shallow water

[1] In this paper the energy budget of wave group-induced subharmonic gravity waves in the nearshore region is examined on the basis of the energy equation for long waves in conjunction with analyses of a high-resolution laboratory data set of one-dimensional random wave propagation over a barred beach. The emphasis is on the growth of forced subharmonics and the deshoaling of the reflected free waves in the shoaling zone. The incident lower-frequency subharmonics are nearly fully reflected at the shoreline, but the higher-frequency components appear to be subject to a significant dissipation in a narrow inshore zone including the swash zone. The previously reported phase lag of the incident forced waves behind the short-wave groups is confirmed, and its key role in the transfer of energy between the grouped short waves and the shoaling bound waves is highlighted. The cross-shore variation of the local mean rate of this energy transfer is determined. Using this as a source function in the wave energy balance allows a very accurate prediction of the enhancement of the forced waves in the shoaling zone, where dissipation is insignificant. The phase lag appears to increase with increasing frequency, which is reflected in a frequency-dependent growth rate, varying very nearly from the free-wave variation ∼ h -1/4 (Green's law) for the lower frequencies to the shallow-water equilibrium limit for forced subharmonics ∼h -5/2 for the higher frequencies. This observed frequency dependence is tentatively generalized to a dependence on a normalized bed slope, controlling whether a so-called mild-slope regime or a steep-slope regime prevails, in which enhanced incident forced waves dominate over breakpoint-generated waves or vice versa.

/pdf/shoaling-of-subharmonic-gravity-waves-3wlwr79dd0.pdf

Jurjen A. Battjes

Papers

Experimental investigation of wave propagation over a bar

Nonlinear saturation-based whitecapping dissipation in SWAN for deep and shallow water

Shoaling of subharmonic gravity waves

Wave height distributions on shallow foreshores

Numerical simulation of nonlinear wave propagation over a bar