https://oss.deltares.nl/documents/48999/59759/Roelvink_2009.pdf

Modelling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands

User manual and system documentation of WAVEWATCH III R version 4.18

Empirical parameterization of setup, swash, and runup

Water movement in freshwater and marine environments affects submersed macrophytes, which also mediate water movement. The result of this complex interaction also affects sediment dynamics in and around submersed macrophyte beds. This review defines known relationships and identifies areas that need additional research on the complex interactions among submersed macrophytes, water movement, and sediment dynamics. Four areas are addressed: (1) the effects of water movement on macrophytes, (2) the effects of macrophyte stands on water movement, (3) the effects of macrophyte beds on sedimentation within vegetated areas, and (4) the relationship between sediment resuspension and macrophytes. Water movement has a significant effect on macrophyte growth, typically stimulating both abundance and diversity of macrophytes at low to moderate velocities, but reducing growth at higher velocities. In turn, macrophyte beds reduce current velocities both within and adjacent to the beds, resulting in increased sedimentation and reduced turbidity. Reduced turbidity increases light availability to macrophytes, increasing their growth. Additionally, macrophytes affect the distribution, composition and particle size of sediments in both freshwater and marine environments. Therefore, establishment and persistence of macrophytes in both marine and freshwater environments provide important ecosystem services, including: (1) improving water quality; and (2) stabilizing sediments, reducing sediment resuspension, erosion and turbidity.

The interaction between water movement, sediment dynamics and submersed macrophytes

1. Introduction 2. Observation techniques 3. Description of ocean waves 4. Statistics 5. Linear wave theory (oceanic waters) 6. Waves in oceanic waters 7. Linear wave theory (coastal waters) 8. Waves in coastal waters 9. The SWAN wave model Appendices References Index.

/pdf/waves-in-oceanic-and-coastal-waters-6ofdu4icqi.pdf

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

[1] Shoreline location and incident wave energy, observed for almost 5 years at Torrey Pines beach, show seasonal fluctuations characteristic of southern California beaches. The shoreline location, defined as the cross-shore position of the mean sea level contour, retreats by almost 40 m in response to energetic winter waves and gradually recovers during low-energy summer waves. Hourly estimates of incident wave energy and weekly to monthly surveys of the shoreline location are used to develop and calibrate an equilibrium-type shoreline change model. By hypothesis, the shoreline change rate depends on both the wave energy and the wave energy disequilibrium with the shoreline location. Using calibrated values of four model free parameters, observed and modeled shoreline location are well correlated at Torrey Pines and two additional survey sites. Model free parameters can be estimated with as little as 2 years of monthly observations or with about 5 years of ideally timed, biannual observations. Wave energy time series used to calibrate and test the model must resolve individual storms, and model performance is substantially degraded by using weekly to monthly averaged wave energy. Variations of free parameter values between sites may be associated with variations in sand grain size, sediment availability, and other factors. The model successfully reproduces shoreline location for time periods not used in tuning and can be used to predict beach response to past or hypothetical future wave climates. However, the model will fail when neglected geologic factors are important (e.g., underlying bedrock limits erosion or sand availability limits accretion).

https://agupubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1029/2009JC005359

Equilibrium shoreline response: Observations and modeling

In Part I, the energy levels of ocean surface waves at infragravity frequencies (nominally 0.005–0.05 Hz) locally forced by swell in 13-m water depth were shown to be predicted accurately by second-order nonlinear wave theory. However, forced infragravity waves were consistently much less energetic than free infragravity waves. Here, in Part II, observations in depths between 8 and 204 m, on Atlantic and Pacific shelves, are used to investigate the sources and variability of free infragravity wave energy. Both free and forced infragravity energy levels generally increase with increasing swell energy and decreasing water depth, but their dependencies are markedly different. Although free waves usually dominate the infragravity frequency band, forced waves contribute a significant fraction of the total infragravity energy with high energy swell and/or in very shallow water. The observed h−1 variation of free infragravity energy with increasing water depth h is stronger than the h−1/2 dependence pre...

Infragravity-Frequency (0.005–0.05 Hz) Motions on the Shelf. Part I: Forced Waves

Extensive wave measurements were collected on the North Carolina–Virginia continental shelf in the autumn of 1999. Comparisons of observations and spectral refraction computations reveal strong cross-shelf decay of energetic remotely generated swell with, for one particular event, a maximum reduction in wave energy of 93% near the Virginia coastline, where the shelf is widest. These dramatic energy losses were observed in light-wind conditions when dissipation in the surface boundary layer caused by wave breaking (whitecaps) was weak and wave propagation directions were onshore with little directional spreading. These observations suggest that strong dissipation of wave energy takes place in the bottom boundary layer. The inferred dissipation is weaker for smaller-amplitude swells. For the three swell events described here, observations are reproduced well by numerical model hindcasts using a parameterization of wave friction over a movable sandy bed. Directional spectra that are narrow off the s...

https://journals.ametsoc.org/doi/pdf/10.1175/1520-0485%282003%29033%3C1921%3ASTATCS%3E2.0.CO%3B2

Swell Transformation across the Continental Shelf. Part I: Attenuation and Directional Broadening

Extensive field observations in depths between 8-204 m are used to investigate the sources and variability of infragravity-frequency (nominally 0.005-0.05 Hz) motions on the shelf. The predicted local forcing of 'bound' infragravity motions by difference-frequency interactions of swell and sea (Hasselmann, 1962) is verified with array measurements of sea floor pressure in 13 m depth. Observed forced infragravity energy levels agree well with theoretical predictions, but are consistently much lower than the observed total infragravity energy. Wavenumber estimates show that free waves, obeying the surface gravity wave dispersion relation, are frequently the dominant source of energy in the infragravity band. The observed directional properties and cross-shore decay of free wave energy show that refractive trapping, neglected in many current infragravity wave generation models, is of O(l) importance. Both free and forced wave energy levels generally increase with both increasing swell energy and decreasing water depth, but the observed dependencies of free and forced waves are different. The relative contributions of free and forced waves to infragravity energy on the shelf are therefore highly variable. Comparisons of observations in the same water depth at different sites suggest that free wave radiation is relatively stronger from broad, sandy beaches than from rocky, cliffed coasts.

/pdf/infragravity-frequency-0-005-0-05-hz-motions-on-the-shelf-3if3k3yzuq.pdf

Infragravity-frequency (0.005-0.05 hz) motions on the shelf

https://escholarship.org/content/qt2vz4d4c5/qt2vz4d4c5.pdf?t=pye94x

William C. O'Reilly

Papers

Equilibrium shoreline response: Observations and modeling

Infragravity-Frequency (0.005–0.05 Hz) Motions on the Shelf. Part I: Forced Waves

Swell Transformation across the Continental Shelf. Part I: Attenuation and Directional Broadening

Infragravity-frequency (0.005-0.05 hz) motions on the shelf

A comparison of two spectral wave models in the Southern California Bight