Showing papers in "Coastal Engineering in 1974"

TL;DR: In this paper, it was shown that the wave generated by a sinusoidal piston motion can be described as a second order Stokes wave superimposed by a free second harmonic wave.

TL;DR: In this paper, it is shown by an idealised laboratory experiment that such currents could be produced by an alongshore gradient of breaker height with wave crests parallel to the beach.

TL;DR: Wachapreague Inlet, a downdrift offset inlet in the barrier island complex of the mid-Atlantic U.S. coast was studied during the period 1971-1973 as discussed by the authors.

TL;DR: In this paper, the effect of secondary waves on a horizontal sand bed is investigated, showing that not only the wave form, but also the sand transport varies spatially, resulting in the formation of bars and troughs.

TL;DR: In this paper, the relative retreat rate associated with a given borrow material texture can be predicted from observations of the modifications in textural properties of native material which occur during the eroding condition following termination of the natural supply of sediment.

TL;DR: In this paper, an extension of the author's method of solution for two-dimensional permeable breakwater by the method of continuation of velocity potentials for two different fluid regions into three-dimensional problems by means of Green functions is presented.

TL;DR: In this article, the role of the inlets in inducing a steady current in a lagoon-inlet system was examined and the results of the study indicated that the net discharge can be significant provided the tidal amplitude to depth ratio is not small.

TL;DR: In this article, two component electromagnetic flowmeters are used as the basis of an apparatus to measure nearshore velocities on natural beaches, which can be mounted on free standing tripods, 1 m. base side and 0.3 m. high, to measure the two components of horizontal flow, and have been used in depths of up to 4 m. and up to 150 m.

TL;DR: In this paper, a series of laboratory experiments was carried out on an idealized ocean inlet- bay system subjected to reversing flows caused by tidal and surface wave actions, and their effects in the bay and inlet channel were measured by water level and current velocity recording units.

TL;DR: In this article, the behavior of beach sand following two beach replenishment projects in 1963, and again in 1970, was determined using repetitive beach surveys above mean sea level (MSL) at seven profile lines.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors used numerical computations along the southern coast of the Hokkaido and the Sanriku Coast for various tsunami sources set on the continental shelf facing to the Japan Submarine Trench.

TL;DR: In this article, an instrumentation system to record direct measures of both wind and wave conditions has been installed at the Wash. Data from these instruments are used in conjunction with long term wind records from another station to predict the frequency and duration of extreme conditions.

TL;DR: In this paper, an investigation of errors incurred by scale distortion for fixed-bed harbor wave models has been performed and results of this study applied to the design, construction, and operation of a model of Los Angeles and Long Beach Harbors.

TL;DR: In this article, it is shown that the real world design optimum will generally be shifted to give a structure larger than that indicated by the 'perfect knowledge' assumption, and that the apparent overdesign due to uncertainty and for the resulting cost increase.

TL;DR: Extensive wave refraction computations and analyses have been made utilizing eleven depth grids on the inner continental shelf along the east coast of the United States as discussed by the authors, in order to increase understanding of the complex wave behavior resulting from the ocean wave-continental shelf interaction.

TL;DR: The history of the area has been studied in some detail, and it can be seen that the lowering of the beach caused progressive damage to the sea wall, eventually leading to flooding of some parts of the frontage as mentioned in this paper.

TL;DR: In this article, a predictable model was established in determining the spreading area of oil on coastal waters and the relationship between the oil slick and the Reynolds, Froude and Weber numbers was examined and the influence of wind, currents, and waves on the spread area was investigated.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors used the "Bathystrophic storm tide theory" to predict open-coast storm surge due to major hurricanes and found excellent agreement between computer predicted and analytical results.

TL;DR: In this paper, a solution of water particle velocities in the boundary layer developed by monochromatic waves on the surface of a circular cylinder is obtained by applying boundary layer approximations and perturbation method to the Navier-Stokes and continuity equations represented in the cylindrical coordinates.