Showing papers in "Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2007"

Inhibitory effects of natural plants of Jeju Island on elastase and MMP-1 expression.

Abstract: In order to search for new active cosmetic ingredients of natural origin, we screened about 60 plants collected from Jeju Island, which is located in the southernmost part of the Republic of Korea. We investigated their free radical scavenging activity, elastase inhibition activity, and reduction of MMP-1 mRNA expression for the development of anti-aging ingredients as raw materials for use in cosmetics. In the free radical scavenging capacity assay, 12 extracts, including Typha orientalis (seed) and Torreya nucifera (leaf), showed significant free radical scavenging activity (up to SC(50) 50% at 100 mug/ml). Among these extracts, Persicaria hydropiper (whole plant) extract showed the highest elastase inhibition activity (IC(50) = 46.7 mug/ml). In the MMP-1 expression assay using RT-PCR, Typha orientalis (seed), Pyrrosia hastata (root), and Capsicum annum (whole plant) showed slightly lower inhibition activity than EGCG, which was used as a control. Furthermore, four extracts, including Persicaria hydropiper (whole plant), Filipendula glaberrima (root), Nymphaea tetragona (root), and Camellia japonica (leaf), completely inhibited the expression of MMP-1 in human fibroblast cells. The results showed that four of the 60 plant extracts may hold potential for use as natural active ingredients for anti-aging cosmetics.

Chitosan beads loaded with essential oils in cosmetic formulations

Abstract: The aim of this work is to evaluate the stability and release of chitosan beads loaded with volatile molecules of Mentha piperita essential oil (E.O.) in a cosmetic formulation. The ability of the beads to quickly release Mentha piperita E.O. during use of a cosmetic formulation such as a bath foam is also assessed. The chitosan beads were produced with three different chitosan dispersions gelled with two different gelling solutions: (a) a 10% solution of sodium hydroxide (NaOH) and (b) a 4% solution of sodium tripolyphosphate (TPP). A few properties of six bead samples loaded with Mentha piperita E.O. are assessed. The properties are morphology, size, swelling ability, encapsulation efficiency, stability in time, and fast release of Mentha piperita E.O. during the use phase of the cosmetic formulation.

4-(1-Phenylethyl) 1,3-benzenediol: a new highly potent lightening agent

Abstract: There is an increasing world-wide demand for skin lightening active ingredients Many common lightening ingredients on the market are either unsafe or ineffective at low concentrations We therefore screened a series of hydroxy-stilbene derivatives for tyrosinase inhibitory activity By chemical synthesis, the structures were optimized for efficacy and stability The final candidate, 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol, was found to be stable and to inhibit mushroom tyrosinase 22 times more effectively than kojic acid In an assay with B16V melanoma cells, 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol was the most potent inhibitor of melanin synthesis with an IC50 of 2 μM among the compounds investigated The lightening effect of 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol was not due to cytotoxicity as proved by an MTT assay on B16V cells On pigmented 3D epidermis models, 01% of 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol led to an almost complete suppression of melanin synthesis after 14 days of incubation Finally, an in vivo test on Asian subjects proved that 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol efficiently lightens human skin at 05% dosage Optimal results are achieved when 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol is applied in formulations with low oil content In summary, we have demonstrated that 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-benzenediol is a potent, stable and safe skin lightener

A horse chestnut extract, which induces contraction forces in fibroblasts, is a potent anti-aging ingredient.

Abstract: Contraction forces generated by non-muscle cells, such as fibroblasts, play important roles in determining cell morphology, vasoconstriction, and/or wound healing. We have searched among various plant extracts for ingredients that generate cell contraction forces using fibroblast-populated collagen gels. Using that model, we found that an extract of horse chestnuts (Aesculus hippocastanum) is able to generate such contraction forces in fibroblasts. The involvement of stress fiber formation in that response is suggested by the inhibition of such force generation by cytochalasin D and rhodamine phalloidin stain. Clinical testing of the extract was carried out using 40 healthy female volunteers. A gel formulation that included 3% of the extract was applied topically to the skin around the eye three times daily for nine weeks. The efficacy of the extract to diminish wrinkles was evaluated by visual scoring based on photo scales. After six weeks, significant decreases in the wrinkle scores at the corners of the eye or in the lower eyelid skin were observed compared with controls. After nine weeks, similar results were obtained. Taken together, our results suggest that an extract of horse chestnuts can generate contraction forces in fibroblasts and is a potent anti-aging ingredient.

High throughput workflow for coacervate formation and characterization in shampoo systems.

Abstract: Cationic cellulosic polymers find wide utility as benefit agents in shampoo. Deposition of these polymers onto hair has been shown to mend split-ends, improve appearance and wet combing, as well as provide controlled delivery of insoluble actives. The deposition is thought to be enhanced by the formation of a polymer/surfactant complex that phase-separates from the bulk solution upon dilution. A standard characterization method has been developed to characterize the coacervate formation upon dilution, but the test is time and material prohibitive. We have developed a semi-automated high throughput workflow to characterize the coacervate-forming behavior of different shampoo formulations. A procedure that allows testing of real use shampoo dilutions without first formulating a complete shampoo was identified. This procedure was adapted to a Tecan liquid handler by optimizing the parameters for liquid dispensing as well as for mixing. The high throughput workflow enabled preparation and testing of hundreds of formulations with different types and levels of cationic cellulosic polymers and surfactants, and for each formulation a haze diagram was constructed. Optimal formulations and their dilutions that give substantial coacervate formation (determined by haze measurements) were identified. Results from this high throughput workflow were shown to reproduce standard haze and bench-top turbidity measurements, and this workflow has the advantages of using less material and allowing more variables to be tested with significant time savings.

Photostabilization of organic UV-absorbing and anti-oxidant cosmetic components in formulations containing micronized manganese-doped titanium oxide.

Abstract: Micronized titanium oxide (TiO(2)) and manganese-doped titanium oxide (TiO(2):Mn) particles have been incorporated into a variety of oil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) emulsions in conjunction with the UV-absorbing organic compounds butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDM) and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and with the anti-oxidants vitamin E and vitamin C. The retention of the organics under solar exposure has been shown to be significantly enhanced by the addition of TiO(2):Mn to the formulation. In the case of BMDM and OMC, the retention is increased from 20% and 24% to 63% and 83%, respectively, after two hours of solar exposure. In this system, TiO(2) particles are shown to provide only limited protection relative to BMDM and OMC. Vitamin E and vitamin C are actively degraded by the presence of TiO(2) in the emulsion during solar exposure. This effect is reversed with TiO(2):Mn, the use of which can protect >90% of anti-oxidants in both the oil and water phases of the formulation. The absence of reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation and surface scavenging of ROS by TiO(2):Mn is responsible for a significantly reduced ROS load on the organic components and consequent photostabilization of the emulsion.

Hair medulla morphology and mechanical properties.

Abstract: The morphology of human hair was extensively discussed in the last century, except for hair medulla, mainly because it was believed to have little or no influence on any useful hair property. Early SEM results showed that medulla is formed by unorganized fibrilar material that could be macrofibrils randomly located in the fiber center. The present paper aims to correlate the fibrilar structures with the macrofibrils using transmission electron microscopy (TEM) and to evaluate the influence of medulla on the mechanical properties of hair. TEM micrographs show that the interface between cortex and medulla is surrounded by a CMC layer and that there is less electronically dense material between cortical cells. Cortical cells in medulla give the usual microfibril crystalline arrangement. The cells become scarce and less organized in the center of the medulla, which also shows air filled granules. Average values of the mechanical properties are similar for unmedullated and medullated fibers. However higher dispersion in data for medullated fibers is observed. Unmedulated fibers are more uniform and show smaller diameters. These data indicate that the air cavities in medulla do not interfere with the mechanical properties, but leave hair strength less uniform.

Clay facial masks: physicochemical stability at different storage temperatures

Abstract: Clay facial masks--formulations that contain a high percentage of solids dispersed in a liquid vehicle--have become of special interest due to specific properties presented by clays, such as particle size, cooling index, high adsorption capacity, and plasticity. Although most of the physicochemical properties of clay dispersions have been studied, specific aspects concerning the physicochemical stability of clay mask products remain unclear. This work aimed at investigating the accelerated physicochemical stability of clay mask formulations stored at different temperatures. Formulations were subjected to centrifuge testing and to thermal treatment for 15 days, during which temperature was varied from -5.0 degrees to 45.0 degrees C. The apparent viscosity and visual aspect (homogeneity) of all formulations were affected by temperature variation, whereas color, odor, and pH value remained unaltered. These results, besides the estimation of physicochemical stability under aging, can be useful in determining the best storage conditions for clay-based formulations.

Hair breakage during combing. I. Pathways of breakage.

Abstract: Hair breakage during combing was evaluated by combing tresses and examining photographs of snags of hair fibers in combs. The resultant hair fiber arrangements suggest that breakage likely involves hair-on-hair interactions, and broken fragment size suggests that breakage occurs primarily at or near the hair-comb interface. Compression forces during combing were also measured, and impact loading of a hair fiber over another hair versus a hair fiber over a comb tooth shows that compression and abrasion are important to breakage during combing and that impact loading of one hair fiber over another during snagging is a probable and important pathway for hair breakage.

Fundamental DSC investigations of alpha-keratinous materials as basis for the interpretation of specific effects of chemical, cosmetic treatments on human hair.

Abstract: Alpha-keratinous materials can be considered as two-phase, filament/matrix composites, in which partly crystalline, alpha-helical intermediate filaments (if) are embedded in an amorphous matrix of IF-associated proteins (IFAP). Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) of keratins in water was found to be especially suited to analyze various aspects of the thermal stability of these main morphological components. Results and considerations are reviewed, which were gained by applying the principles derived from fundamental investigations to the specific effects of oxidation (bleaching) and reduction (perm-waving). Properties and interactions of the main morphological components of human hair are considered that are specifically related to the various aspects of their thermal stability. The overall view of the results shows that the course of the thermal unfolding of the alpha-helix in the IFs is independent of the chemical history of hair. The matrix properties are the primary factor controlling the kinetics of the onset of the denaturation process in the IF/IFAP-composite.

Hair breakage during combing. II. Impact loading and hair breakage.

Abstract: During combing of hair, short fiber fragmentation (less than 2.5 cm) and longer segment breaks occur by different pathways. Longer fiber breaks most likely occur principally by impact loading. Impact loading causes hair breakage at lower loads than tensile loading, with essentially no increase in strain versus normal tensile testing, which produces large strain increases. Strain rates in impact loading are more similar to combing rates than rates of extension in tensile loading, and the looped and crossed hair formations in snags fit impact-load breakage better than simple extension of straight/non-crossed hairs in tensile testing. Extension or impacting hair fibers with flaws or damaged hair sections such as damaged wrapped ends produces short fiber fragmentation, while longer segment breaks may be produced in fibers with natural flaws such as fiber twists, cracks, or badly abraded or chemically weakened hair or even knots.

Cosmeceutical properties of polysaccharides from the root bark of Ulmus davidiana var. japonica

Abstract: In Korea and China, Ulmus davidiana var. japonica has been used as a traditional oriental medicine for the treatment of difficulty in urination, skin inflammation, etc. In order to investigate the potential of a polysaccharide extract from Ulmus davidiana var. japonica as a cosmetic ingredient, we measured its moisturizing effect, photo-induced cytotoxicity, and anti-inflammatory effect. After hydrolysis, HPLC experiments showed that the composition of the polysaccharide extract was mainly rhamnose, galactose, and glucose. The molecular weight of the obtained Ulmus davidiana root extract was 20,000. The intrinsic viscosity was 90 dl/g. In a moisturizing test conducted through the measurement of water loss in a desiccator and of moisture content with a Corneometer CM820, Ulmus davidiana root extract showed almost the same moisturizing effect as hyaluronic acid. In an assay for inhibition of the H(2)O(2)-activated release of PGE2, IL-6, and IL-8 in normal human fibroblast cell lines, Ulmus davidiana root extract showed an inhibitory activity of PGE2 release in a dose-dependent manner (up to 85.9% at a concentration of 0.1%). The percent inhibition of the release of IL-6 was in the range of 45.6% to 64.5% (H(2)O(2) was used as the positive control). Moreover, the release of IL-8 was completely inhibited in the entire concentration range (>0.0025%). In a test of recovery from photo-induced damage after UVA irradiation (3 J/cm(2)), the cell recovery of human fibroblasts increased to levels two times higher than that of the positive control, which was UVA-damaged cells in the absence of Ulmus davidiana root extract (up to 60.2% at 3.0% of Ulmus davidiana root extract). In a photo-induced cytotoxicity assay in the presence of promethazine as a photosensitizer, Ulmus davidiana root extract showed approximately 48% of the increased cell viability of the control. Therefore, Ulmus davidiana root extract may be useful for the development of a cosmetic ingredient.

New keratin isolates: Actives for natural hair protection

Abstract: Hair is primarily composed of keratin proteins and it is well established that peptides and proteins bestow desirable effects on the hair, for example improving moisturization and softness. In the present work we describe how keratin actives with unique properties convey a range of beneficial properties to a variety of hair types. It has been observed that these functional keratins protect hair from damage associated with chemical treatments such as perming and relaxation, help to restore the mechanical strength of damaged fibers and decrease fading of colored hair.

Structural analysis of the cell membrane complex in the human hair cuticle using microbeam X-ray diffraction: relationship with the effects of hair dyeing.

Abstract: This article deals with the structure of the cell membrane complex (CMC) in the human hair cuticle. The microbeam X-ray provided a pattern of small-angle scattering from the CMC in the cuticle with no sample preparations, including slicing and pre-staining of hair. The thickness of the beta- and delta-layers, substructure in CMC, was estimated by analysis of the scattering pattern. We used hair samples extracted with several solvents, and found that solvent extraction changed the thickness of the beta- and delta-layers in a manner dependent on the type of solvent. Extraction of hair with solvent was also shown to have effects on the extent of dyeing. There was a high correlation between the extent of dyeing and the thickness of the delta-layer, i.e., a thin layer tended to show a high amount of dyeing, whereas there was no significant correlation between the thickness of the beta-layer and the extent of dyeing.

Ranking of aqueous surfactant-humectant systems based on an analysis of in vitro and in vivo skin barrier perturbation measurements

Abstract: We propose that skin electrical current measurements can be used in vitro to effectively rank aqueous solutions containing surfactants and humectants (the enhancer) contacting the skin, relative to a PBS aqueous solution (the control) contacting the skin, based on their ability to perturb the skin aqueous pores. Specifically, we develop an in vitro ranking metric using the increase in the skin electrical current induced by an enhancer relative to the control. Aqueous contacting solutions containing (i) surfactants [SDS (sodium dodecyl sulfate)] and C(12)E(6) [dodecyl hexa (ethylene oxide)], (ii) humectants (glycerol and propylene glycol), and (iii) a control (PBS) were studied. Utilizing the new in vitro ranking metric, these aqueous contacting solutions were ranked as follows (from the mildest to the harshest): glycerol < propylene glycol < PBS < C(12)E(6) < SDS. In order to further develop this ranking methodology, which can potentially lead to the reduction, or elimination, of costly and time-consuming procedures, such as human and animal testing and trial-and-error screening in vivo, it was important to correlate the findings of the in vitro ranking metric with direct in vivo skin barrier measurements. For this purpose, in vivo soap chamber measurements, including transepidermal water loss, visual skin dryness, and chromameter erythema measurements, were carried out on human volunteers using the aqueous surfactant-humectant solutions described above. The results of these in vivo measurements were found to be consistent with the ranking results obtained using the in vitro ranking metric. To further explore the validity of our model and to verify the skin barrier mitigating effect of glycerol, in vivo soap chamber measurements were carried out for aqueous SDS solutions containing 10 wt% added glycerol. These in vivo measurements support our recent in vitro finding that glycerol reduces the average radius and the pore number density of the skin aqueous pores, such that SDS micelles are hindered from penetrating into the skin and inducing skin barrier perturbation.

New high-charge density hydrophobically modified cationic HEC polymers for improved co-deposition of benefit agents and serious conditioning for problem hair.

Abstract: A series of new high charge density Polyquaternium-67(1) (PQ-67) polymers have been prepared and evaluated in shampoo formulations. These new compositions represent an addition to the family of high-viscosity quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) polymers with cationic substitution of trimethyl ammonium and dimethyldodecyl ammonium(2) (Figure 1A) described in (1) and (2). The evaluation protocol included objective lab methods and subjective panel studies on different hair types. Commercial conditioning polymers: PQ-67 (Polymers SoftCAT(3)) and cationic guar(4) (Jaguar C-13S(R)(5)) were used as performance benchmarks. It was found that increasing the cationic charge density of the PQ-67 polymers above 1.45 meq/g (equivalent of 2 weight-percent (wt.%) nitrogen) resulted in a several-fold boost of their co-deposition ability. These experimental, high charge density PQ-67 polymers were shown to deliver silicones and other performance ingredients from shampoo formulations more efficiently than any other polymer currently available on the market for rinse-off hair cleansing/conditioning applications. The polymers also provided improved wet and/or dry conditioning, volume control, and could be instrumental in achieving sleek looking hair and improved control/manageability of unruly or frizzy hair. The high charge density PQ-67 polymers are also ideally suited for highly-fragranced surfactant-based formulas that are used in aromatherapy and spa products due to their superior ability to deliver fragrance.

Hair breakage during combing. III. The effects of bleaching and conditioning on short and long segment breakage by wet and dry combing of tresses.

Abstract: A recent publication (1), provided evidence for two types of hair breakage during combing, short segment breakage (approximately less than 1.27 cm) and longer segment breakage. We have confirmed these results and refined the separation distance between short and long segment breakage at about 2.54 cm. Furthermore, chemical bleaching increased both short and long segment breakage while a commercial hair conditioner decreased both types of breakage. Whether the hair is chemically bleached or conditioned, for dry combing, short segment breakage increases with increasing comb strokes, that is, short segment breakage increases as combing damages the ends of the hair, however, long segment breakage does not increase with increasing comb strokes. Wet combing provided a decrease in short segment breakage and an increase in long segment breaks, but no increase in breakage with increasing comb strokes. Mechanical combing of tresses shows similar results qualitatively, however the variance was too large and adjustments need to be made to provide for a larger number of broken hairs to bring the mechanical and hand combing results in line. For dry combing, as the comb descends through the hair, hairs above it are made parallel and those beneath are either made parallel or knot by, hairs looping around other hairs or hairs looping around comb teeth and other hairs several cm between the comb and the hair tips. As the comb advances through the looped/knotted hairs long breaks occur or as the comb descends near the tips wrapped ends can result. End wrapping by inertia & possibly static charge produces short segment breaks which are more severe if the hair is cut at 90 degrees versus a tapered cut. For wet combing, clumping of hairs by a capillary action produces fewer short segment breaks, by reducing end wrapping: however, crossed hair interactions occur & because of higher friction more severe snags arise higher up in the tress, and lower hair breaking load due to plasticization by water, producing a larger number of long segment breaks. The very best practical way to evaluate hair strength is by counting the actual number of short and long segment breaks and by considering both wet and dry combing.

Hair and amino acids: the interactions and the effects.

Abstract: The interaction and the function of some amino acids in hair care applications are discussed. When amino acids are applied to hair in the form of simple aqueous solution, uptake of the amino acids is mainly controlled by ionic equilibrium. When amino acids were incorporated in a hair conditioner, the result was quite different, suggesting the importance of interaction between the amino acids and the cationic surfactants. Uptake of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), a derivative of glutamic acid, is enhanced by combining with arginine, an amino with strong affinity towards hair. Effects of some amino acids on bleached/dyed hair are described. A hair conditioner incorporated with alanine improves hair surface hydrophobicity of bleach-damaged hair. Histidine and phenylalanine improve tensile strength. PCA was proved to be effective to improve color-retention of dyed hair.

Hair coloring systems delivering color with reduced fiber damage.

Abstract: The possible metal-induced formation of free radical species such as the hydroxyl radical (HO*) during the use of permanent hair coloring products has been demonstrated. These highly reactive species are formed from the reaction of hydrogen peroxide with redox metals such as copper, which are thought to be absorbed by the hair from the from-the-tap wash water. Formation of such radical species has been shown to lead to measurable keratin fiber damage. The incorporation of chelants such as N,N'-ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) has been demonstrated to prevent this metal-induced radical formation and thus significantly reduce the fiber damage. This chelant is highly effective due to its ability to specifically bind low levels of copper in the presence of relatively high levels of calcium, as is found in hair.

Water-handling properties of vernix caseosa and a synthetic analogue.

Abstract: creams on these infants has decreased TEWL and improved the skin condition. However, in infants of 500-750 g, this treatment was associated with an increased incidence of late-onset nosocomial infection, and questions regarding efficacy and safety have been raised. The water-handling properties, semi-permeability and multi-functionality, suggest that application of vernix may promote the development and restoration of premature or other compromised skin. The present study focuses on the development of barrier creams to simulate the water-handling properties of native vernix. Barrier creams were prepared as high-water-phase emulsions containing various lipid mixtures. Several stable creams with high water content exhibited slow water release and water vapor transport rates in the range to facilitate barrier repair. The results showed the importance of emulsion type in preventing water release. Preparations with vernix-like lipids demonstrated water release profiles closer to the native vernix benchmark than those with conventional lipids. The work resulted in a synthetic vernix barrier cream prototype for evaluation on skin and to which additional functionality, e.g., anti-infective and antioxidant activity, could be added.

Use of quaternized cassia galactomannan for hair conditioning.

Abstract: There is a continuing need for hair care formulas to deliver superior conditioning benefits with highly efficient deposition of hair-enhancing components. In this paper, we describe high-charge-density (3.0 mEq/g) cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (cassia HPTC), a quaternized galactomannan from the endosperm of Cassia tora and Cassia obtusifolia. Cassia HPTC is shown to participate in the coacervate phase of conditioning shampoos, from which it is deposited onto hair to provide conditioning benefits. Cryo-scanning electron microscopy and time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry were used to observe and characterize the cassia HPTC deposits left on hair. The high-charge-density cassia HPTC resulted in improved deposition efficiency compared with a quaternized guar-containing formula. Cassia HPTC offers benefits as an alternative to traditional cationic polymers as conditioning agents or as an adjunct conditioner to decrease the amount of cationic polymer needed to achieve the desired conditioning performance.

A novel volumetric method for quantitation of titanium dioxide in cosmetics.

Abstract: Nowadays there are many sun-protection cosmetics incorporating organic or inorganic UV filters as active ingredients. Chemically stable inorganic sunscreen agents, usually metal oxides, are widely employed in high-SPF (sun protection factor) products. Titanium dioxide is one of the most frequently used inorganic UV filters. It has been used as a pigment for a long period of cosmetic history. With the development of micronization techniques, it has become possible to incorporate titanium dioxide in sunscreen formulations without the previous whitening effect, and hence its use in cosmetics has become an important research topic. However, there are very few works related to quantitation of titanium dioxide in sunscreen products. In this research, we analyzed the amounts of titanium dioxide in sunscreen cosmetics by adapting redox titration, reduction of Ti(IV) to Ti(III), and reoxidation to Ti(IV). After calcification of other organic ingredients of cosmetics, titanium dioxide is dissolved by hot sulfuric acid. The dissolved Ti(IV) is reduced to Ti(III) by adding metallic aluminum. The reduced Ti(III) is titrated against a standard oxidizing agent, Fe(III) (ammonium iron(III) sulfate), with potassium thiocyanate as an indicator. In order to test the accuracy and applicability of the proposed method, we analyzed the amounts of titanium dioxide in four types of sunscreen cosmetics, namely cream, make-up base, foundation, and powder, after adding known amounts of titanium dioxide (1 approximately 25 w/w%). The percentages of titanium dioxide recovered in the four types of formulations were in the range between 96% and 105%. We also analyzed seven commercial cosmetic products labeled with titanium dioxide as an ingredient and compared the results with those obtained from ICP-AES (inductively coupled plasma-atomic emission spectrometry), one of the most powerful atomic analysis techniques. The results showed that the titrated amounts were well in accord with the analyzed amounts of titanium dioxide by ICP-AES. Although instrument-based analytical methods, namely ICP-MS (inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry) and ICP-AES, are best for the analysis of titanium, it is difficult for small cosmetic companies to install such instruments because of their high cost. It was found that the volumetric method presented here gives quantitatively accurate and reliable results with routine lab-ware and chemicals.

Evaluation of hair humidity resistance/moisturization from hair elasticity.

Abstract: Average water regain and hair elasticity (Young's modulus) of virgin dark brown and bleached hair fibers under different relative humidity (RH) were determined. It is observed that hair water regain increases linearly with an increase in RH in the range of 40-85%; and the remaining percent of hair elasticity decreases linearly with an increase in RH in the range of 50-80%. Therefore, measurements of average hair elasticity at 50% and 80% RH, respectively, under various equilibrium times before and after cosmetic treatments can be used to evaluate effects of cosmetic treatments on water adsorption behavior of hair-improvement in hair humidity resistance or enhancement in hair moisture uptake. A Hair Humidity Resistance Factor (H(2)RF) has been defined. If R(2)HF > 1, the product improves hair humidity resistance-anti-frizz; if R(2)HF < 1, the product enhances hair water adsorption; when R(2)HF approximately 1, the product has no significant effect on hair water adsorption behavior. This method was applied to evaluate anti-frizz performance of several shampoo formulations containing Polyquaternium-10, or Polyquaternium-70, or Polyquaternium-67, or Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride. It was found PQ-70 shampoo showed the highest H(2)RF value and the best anti-frizz performance among these tested shampoos. The results were consistent with those obtained from Image Analysis.

Determination of the substantivity of emollients to human hair.

Abstract: The determination of silicones and hydrogenated didecenes deposited on human hair from shampoo applications is described. For silicones, induced coupled plasma optical emission spectroscopy (ICP-OES) of extracts and X-ray fluorescence analysis (XRF) of hair strands without any further sample preparation have been applied. Three shampoos from the European and Asian markets have been investigated at repeated shampoo applications followed by the determination of the removability with sodium laureth sulfate. Hydrogenated didecenes have been quantified by GC-MS of extracts. A transparent shampoo containing 1.8% of hydrogenated didecenes delivered via a nanoemulsion was examined in the same way as the commercial shampoos. Finally, the substantivity data were compared with performance data from combability determination and hair volume measurements. Good correlations of analytical data and performance profiles have been obtained.

Semi-permanent split end mending with a polyelectrolyte complex

Abstract: Split ends form through mechanical stresses during grooming procedures and are more likely to appear in hair damaged as a result of excessive combing forces. Although there are no conventional systems that will permanently mend split ends, a semi-permanent mending composition has been achieved through a polyelectrolyte complex. The complex is formed as a result of the ionic association of a cationic polymer, Polyquaternium-28, and an anionic polymer, PVM/MA Copolymer. Hair tresses containing tagged split ends are used in measuring mending efficacy. The tagging allows the fate of the split ends to be determined after different types of treatment regimens which test the durability of the mend. Monitoring of the repair and mending durability is carried out with the aid of a stereomicroscope. Results obtained with this method indicate that the complex both by itself and when formulated into a simple lotion provided a high level of split end mending not only after initial treatment but more importantly after combing showing the durability of the mend. Cumulative effects and durability to washing indicate that the polymer complex does not build up on the hair and rinses off with shampoo making possible its usage as a post shampoo treatment. The formulated lotion has higher durability performance as compared to a commercial product with a split end mending claim. The proposed mechanism of action entails a crosslinking microgel structure that infiltrates the damaged hair sites binding them together. This model is supported by the analysis of phase behavior, viscometry, Scanning Electron Microscopy, and absorption of ionic dyes.

The effect of treatments on the shear modulus of human hair measured by the single fiber torsion pendulum.

Abstract: Previous studies with the single fiber torsion pendulum have alluded to the ability of this device to selectively measure different regions of a fiber, namely, the core and the sheath. This selective ability of the torsion pendulum was explored further as a means of better understanding treatments effects. First, a substantial reduction in shear modulus was caused by simply abrading the hair fiber surface to remove the cuticle layer. In another experiment, bleaching was found to have a softening effect on the cuticle layer since the shear modulus was reduced significantly. Next, the fibers were subsequently treated with either Polyquaternium-10 or cetyl trimethylammonium bromide (CETAB) and measured again. The CETAB treatment resulted in an increase in the shear modulus indicating fortification of the cuticle layer. Polyquaternium-10 treatment increased the shear modulus slightly. These different effects are explained by the molecular sizes of these compounds-CETAB is a small molecule which can penetrate into the cuticle layer while Polyquaternium-10 is too large to do so. Lastly, the effect of moisture was evaluated by varying the humidity inside a chamber surrounding the sample mounted in the torsion pendulum. This showed a substantial inverse relationship between humidity level and shear modulus that was much more pronounced for bleached hair fibers than for untreated.

Investigations of cosmetic treatments on high-pressure differential scanning calorimetry.

Abstract: High Pressure Differential Scanning Calorimetry (HPDSC) can be used to gain information on both the degree of crystallinity in the intermediate filaments (IFs) and the structural rigidity of the surrounding matrix or intermediate filament associated proteins (IFAP) of the hair cortex. We have used HPDSC to measure changes in denaturation temperature (T(D)) and enthalpy (deltaH(D)) of the crystalline components after treatment with bleach products. Literature reports suggest that a decrease in peak denaturation temperature is indicative of permanent damage to the hair. However, changing the rigidity of the matrix surrounding the IFs, by temporarily changing electrostatic interactions, should also result in a similar decrease in peak temperature. The complex nature of bleach formulations including oxidants, alkalizers and salts suggests that several of the components could have a non-permanent affect on salt bridges and hydrogen bonds and hence rigidity or viscosity of the matrix. We have compared the denaturation temperature with levels of lightening (dL) and tensile properties of the fiber after treatment both before and after removal of actives from the fiber. It is evident that the HPDSC results are strongly influenced by formulation components and that these changes are reversible with extensive washing or dialysis. Combined with tensile data, it is proposed that a decrease in T(D) and deltaH(D) following treatment with bleach products can be due to both permanent and reversible changes to either the intermediate filaments or intermediate filament associated proteins of the hair fiber.

High-pressure differential scanning calorimetry of colorant products.

Abstract: High-pressure differential scanning calorimetry (HPDSC) can be used to gain information on both the degree of crystallinity in the intermediate filaments (IFs) and the structural rigidity of the surrounding matrix or intermediate filament associated proteins (IFAP) of the hair cortex (1-3). We have used HPDSC to measure changes in the denaturation temperature (T(D)) and enthalpy (DeltaH(D)) of the crystalline components after multiple treatments with permanent hair colorant products. We have observed that after three repeat treatments both the denaturation enthalpy and peak temperature are significantly decreased vs the untreated starting substrate. However, on dialysis of the fibers in deionized water this decrease is shown to be completely reversible, returning the enthalpy and temperature to that of the untreated hair. It is proposed that the decrease is due to the incorporation of formulation components such as the alkalizer and surfactants etc. and metal ions such as calcium and magnesium from the tap wash water. These components are predicted to have a non-permanent effect on the salt bridges and hydrogen bonds and hence the rigidity or viscosity of the matrix. We have compared the denaturation temperature with the tensile properties of the fiber after treatment both before and after removal of actives from the fiber.

Hair breakage during combing. IV. Brushing and combing hair.

Abstract: During combing of hair, longer fiber breaks (>2.5 cm) occur principally by impact loading of looped crossover hairs, while short segment breaks (<2.5 cm) occur primarily by end wrapping. Brushing provides breakage similarly but with a higher ratio of long-to-short segment breaks, and the ratio of long-to-short segment breaks (L/S) is a good way to follow these two pathways of breakage under different conditions. For example, bleaching hair, a longer comb stroke, increasing fiber curvature, wet combing versus dry combing, and brushing versus combing all provide for an increase in long segment breaks and this ratio, with the largest effect produced by brushing.

Peptide structure: Its effect on penetration into human hair.

Abstract: The influence of the peptide structure on its penetration inside hair was studied, together with the effect of hair bleaching (oxidation). For that reason, the outcome of positioning a charged sequence (KAKAK) either at the N or C terminal on hair penetration has been studied for peptides with 17 residues each. It was observed that the penetration of these peptides into hair was driven by electrostatic interactions, where the position of the charged group at the peptide structure was of major importance. The penetration was only achieved for damaged hair due to its higher negative charge at the membrane surface. It was also observed that the peptides were able to restore the original tensile strength of bleached hair. Consequently, the knowledge of hair surface properties is of extreme importance when designing peptides directed for hair treatment.