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Showing papers in "Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2017"


Journal Article
TL;DR: A new evolution of three-dimensional skin equivalent is developed due to the optimization of four-dimensional laser-assisted bioprinting and skin equivalent culture protocols that are closed to current skin equivalents and suitable to test cosmetic ingredients.
Abstract: We developed a new evolution of three-dimensional skin equivalent due to the optimization of four-dimensional laser-assisted bioprinting and skin equivalent culture protocols. This allowed us to produce fully bioprinted skin equivalents that are closed to current skin equivalents and suitable to test cosmetic ingredients. Particularly, we performed preliminary evaluation of maturogens to improve the dermis maturation before the epidermal seeding and we designed a specific "micropattern" to reproduce the nonlinear aspect of the dermal-epidermal junction. Finally an active ingredient was applied during the production of the bioprinted skin equivalent.

9 citations


Journal Article
TL;DR: An improved SDS penetration assay is developed using excised human skin that reflects typical consumer exposure times for rinse-off products and shows a significant decrease in 14C-SDS penetration from a sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)/polyethylene oxide composition applied to excised skin for either 2 or 10 min, as compared to SLS only.
Abstract: Mixed surfactant and surfactant-polymer compositions have been reported to decrease surfactant deposition onto and penetration into the skin relative to single surfactant compositions, potentially improving the mildness of the product. Previous workers in this area [see Moore et al., J. Cosmet. Sci.54:29-46 (2003), and subsequent publications] employed a procedure in which excised porcine skin was exposed to a surfactant solution containing radiolabeled sodium dodecyl sulfate (14C-SDS) for 5 h. We have developed an improved SDS penetration assay using excised human skin that reflects typical consumer exposure times for rinse-off products. Using the new protocol, we were able to see a significant decrease in 14C-SDS penetration from a sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)/polyethylene oxide composition applied to excised skin for either 2 or 10 min, as compared to SLS only. Furthermore, differences between the SDS penetration patterns on porcine skin and human skin were seen with a second SLS/polymer system; consequently, we do not recommend porcine skin for routine mildness screening by 14C-SDS penetration.

7 citations


Journal Article
TL;DR: Recent advances in the utilization of bio-based PG ingredients as alternatives to traditional ethoxylate chemistries for mild nonionic surfactants, substantive humectants, and micellar thickeners are discussed.
Abstract: Polyglycerol (PG) is a well-known cosmetic ingredient and important precursor for the synthesis of a variety of cosmetic ingredients, such as surfactants, emulsifiers, and conditioning agents for hair and skin. When derived from renewable resources, PG can provide a more sustainable platform for the development of new ingredients with improved performance in cosmetic applications. This paper will discuss recent advances in the utilization of bio-based PG ingredients as alternatives to traditional ethoxylate chemistries for mild nonionic surfactants, substantive humectants, and micellar thickeners.

7 citations


Journal Article
TL;DR: Shelf stability was determined to exceed 2 year based on the accelerated testing conditions, and anthocyanin extracts could be used as suitable alternatives to synthetic colorants in lipid-based topical formulations.
Abstract: Cosmetics, such as lipstick, can affect an individual's perception of attractiveness and morale. Consumer concern with the safety of synthetic colorants has made the need for alternative natural color sources increasingly urgent. Our goal was to evaluate the feasibility of anthocyanin (ACN) extracts as colorants in lipstick formulations. Lipstick formulations were colored with ACN-rich materials. Accelerated environmental testing typical of the cosmetic industry were used: incubation at 20°, 37°, and 45°C for 12 weeks and temperature abuse cycles between 20°/37°C or -20°/20°C. Color (CIELab) and total monomeric ACN (pH-differential) changes were monitored to determine shelf stability of the product. All formulations exhibited acceptable color for lipsticks. Shelf stability was determined to exceed 2 year based on the accelerated testing conditions. Formulations containing cyanidin as their main ACN were the most stable (elderberry, purple corn, and purple sweet potato). ACNs could be used as suitable alternatives to synthetic colorants in lipid-based topical formulations.

6 citations


Journal Article
TL;DR: The results show that NF-κB was increased significantly due to SIRT6 silencing in the absence of UVB, illustrating the master regulatory function of Sirt6 in inflammation and finding a significant increase in DNA damage without UV exposure as a result of SIRT 6 silencing, indicating the importance in DNA repair pathways in cultured human dermal fibroblasts.
Abstract: SIRT6 is a member of the sirtuin family, which is involved in multiple cellular pathways related to aging, inflammation, epigenetics, and a variety of other cellular functions, including DNA repair (1). Multiple pathways involving different cellular functions are impacted by the deacetylase activity of SIRT6. Genomic integrity is maintained by the capacity of SIRT6 to modulate the accessibility of DNA repair proteins. Glucose metabolism is suppressed by SIRT6 via the deacetylation of histones located at the promoter regions of multiple glycolytic genes and the corepression of hypoxia-inducible factor-1α. SIRT6 is also a corepressor of nuclear factor (NF)-κB, silencing NF-κB target genes through the deacetylation of histones at their promoters’ regions. We used SIRT6 small-interfering RNA as a tool to modulate residual DNA damage and NF-κB expression in human dermal fibroblasts. We measured NF-κB levels in the presence or the absence of ultraviolet B (UVB). The impact of SIRT6 knockdown as shown by a decrease in SIRT6 messenger RNA levels resulted in residual DNA damage as evaluated by the comet assay. Our results show that NF-κB was increased significantly (up to 400%) due to SIRT6 silencing in the absence of UVB, illustrating the master regulatory function of SIRT6 in inflammation. We also found a significant increase in DNA damage without UV exposure as a result of SIRT6 silencing, indicating the importance of SIRT6 in DNA repair pathways in cultured human dermal fibroblasts.

5 citations


Journal Article
TL;DR: It is shown that an Epilobium angustifolium extract dose dependently reduces lipid synthesis in sebocytes to a maximum of -43% (1% extract), and protects the epidermis from Malassezia-induced morphological changes.
Abstract: Dandruff is a scalp disorder characterized by flaking skin and itch of an excessive oily scalp skin. It affects 55% of the global youth and adult population. Seborrheic dermatitis is a similar scalp skin disorder with aggravated itchy rashes and flaking. Different factors are identified in the dandruff development: increased sebum production, uncontrolled fungal growth of Malassezia strains and individual reaction to pro-inflammatory environment, and the susceptibility to trigger an immunological response. Using in vitro and ex vivo models, we show that an Epilobium angustifolium extract dose dependently reduces lipid synthesis in sebocytes to a maximum of -43% (1% extract), and protects the epidermis from Malassezia-induced morphological changes. Epilobium angustifolium extract also acts through innovative mechanisms involving regulations of defensins (human beta-defensins [hBD2] and hBD3) and toll-like receptor 2 involved in the immunological response of the skin. The anti-dandruff and sebum-regulating efficacy of E. angustifolium extract (1.5%) was confirmed in a clinical study that mobilized 24 volunteers with dandruff and greasy scalp for 30 days. At the end of the study, nonadherent and adherent dandruffs were significantly (p < 0.0001) reduced in average by -54% and -48%, respectively. Using Sebumeter® measurements, scalp sebum production was inhibited by -67% (p < 0.0001) in average over baseline. In conclusion, E. angustifolium extract offers a new innovative approach to dandruff reduction through immunomodulation of the skin response to Malassezia invasion.

5 citations


Journal Article
Zhi Li1, Maxon Bartley D1, Kimmai Thi Nguyen1, Myoungbae Lee1, Meng Gu1, Paul W. Pretzer1 
TL;DR: A "Soft" + "Hard" formulation strategy for long-wear and sebum/oil-resistant makeup may help promote cosmetic formulation development based on rational design and understanding interactions among components, develop novel long- wear formulation chassis, and properly evaluate emerging new technologies.
Abstract: We propose a "Soft" + "Hard" formulation strategy for long-wear and sebum/oil-resistant makeup. The ratios of "Hard" nonvolatile components (e.g., resins, particulates, and solid emulsifiers) and compatible "Soft" nonvolatile components (e.g., nonvolatile oils and liquid emulsifiers) may be carefully adjusted to create desired long-wear performance and sensory. For a given formulation chassis, we recommend studying compatibility and viscoelastic profiles of blends made of "Hard" polymeric resins and "Soft" structuring polymers to gain fundamental understanding of the polymer matrix for pigment adhesion. Enhanced oil/sebum resistance may be achieved, where there is good compatibility among the "Soft" and "Hard" polymeric components and where there is considerable immiscibility between oil/sebum and each nonvolatile component. Our strategy may help promote cosmetic formulation development based on rational design and understanding interactions among components, develop novel long-wear formulation chassis, and properly evaluate emerging new technologies.

5 citations


Journal Article
TL;DR: In this paper, a bioactive exopolysaccharide (EPS-229) was developed to protect against urban pollution, including free radicals, heavy metals, hydrocarbons, and PM2.5 (particulate matter with a size lower than 2.5 μm).
Abstract: Through natural selection, living organisms have evolved well-adapted survival strategies over time. The shallow salt waters of Moorea lagoon are the site of accumulation of microbial mats called "Kopara," in the native Polynesian language. This unique ecosystem is rich in film-forming exopolysaccharides (EPSs) secreted by microorganisms within the biofilm, as a mean to protect themselves from environmental stress (strong ultraviolet [UV], pH, salinity … ). Using blue biotechnology, a manufacturing process was developed to obtain an EPS with skin benefits. The active ingredient (EPS-229) protects against urban pollution, including free radicals, heavy metals, hydrocarbons, and PM2.5 (particulate matter with a size lower than 2.5 μm). Methods The anti-lipid peroxidation action of EPS-229 was studied in an in vitro UVB-irradiated keratinocyte culture model, using lipophilic fluorescent probe. The chelating properties of EPS-229 were evaluated in tubo in the presence of cadmium and lead. The protective effect of EPS-229 on pollution-exposed skin explants was investigated through quantification of released malondialdehyde (MDA) and histological observation of skin morphology using optical microscopy. Clinical evaluation of the protective and cleansing efficacy of a water solution containing EPS-229 (0.02% and 0.01% w/v, respectively) was performed, against placebo, on a panel of 18 volunteers. For these studies, the forearms of volunteers were treated with EPS-229 before (anti-adhesion affect) or after (cleansing effect) application of PM2.5 (iron particles of 1 μm). The presence of skin-adherent particles was observed and quantified by image analysis, using specific digital masks. Results In vitro, EPS-229 significantly protected keratinocyte cell membranes from lipid peroxidation. A decrease of 28% was achieved when a concentration of 0.001% w/v EPS-229 was applied to the cell culture. In tubo, EPS-229 also presented strong chelating properties. Maximal adsorption was estimated at 154 mg/g (1.37 mmol/g) of EPS-299 for cadmium and at 250 mg/g (1.21 mmol/g) of EPS-229 for lead. In the skin explant model of pollution exposure, EPS-229 (0.03% w/v) reduced MDA production by 44%, preserved cell integrity, improved dermal-epidermal cohesion, and normalized the collagen network. In vivo, treatment of skin with EPS-229 before exposure to PM2.5 created a protective film limiting particle adhesion. When used in a cleansing solution after exposure to PM2.5, EPS-229 formed a mesh that entrapped particles and removed them from the skin surface. Conclusion Inspired by the French Polynesia Kopara unique ecosystem, a bioactive exopolysaccharide (EPS-229) has been developed that offers protection from environmental aggression. As a biomimetic shield at the surface of the skin, EPS-229 provides an immediate multiprotective action that efficiently fights the harmful effects of urban pollution and smog.

5 citations


Journal Article
TL;DR: The results indicate that the formulated chitosan hydrogel patch delivers an effective amount of incorporated artocarpin depigmenting action and significantly improved the hyperpigmented area of the subjects after 3 weeks of application.
Abstract: Artocarpus altilis heartwood extract contains the bioactive compound artocarpin which exhibits melanogenesis inhibitory activity. However, the extract has poor solubility which affects the skin permeability of the compound. A chitosan hydrogel patch incorporating A. altilis heartwood extract was formulated to enhance the delivery of an amount of artocarpin sufficient for depigmenting the skin. The extract was prepared as an o/w microemulsion before blending with an aqueous solution of chitosan. The hydrogel patch was formulated by blending in a 1:1 ratio by weight of 4% w/w chitosan solution and 0.04% w/w extract microemulsion which provides optimal values of the mechanical properties of the patch. The release of artocarpin from the formulated patch (artocarpin content, 0.07 mg/cm2) exhibited two phases; the rapid rate (0-15 min) averaged 0.73 µg/min/mm2, and the slow rate (15-240 min) averaged 0.02 µg/min/mm2. The formulated patches significantly improved the hyperpigmented area of the subjects after 3 weeks of application. No adverse events were observed. The results indicate that the formulated chitosan hydrogel patch delivers an effective amount of incorporated artocarpin depigmenting action.

5 citations


Journal Article
TL;DR: The results obtained indicate that elastin has a useful function as a cosmetic material, and its moisturizing and whitening effects are investigated.
Abstract: Elastin and collagen are extracellular matrix proteins that are widely distributed in the body. Although elastin essentially functions as a skin moisturizer, there have been few reports on its other fundamental chemical and biological functions. In this study, we investigated the moisturizing and whitening (tyrosinase inhibition) effects of elastin to examine its usefulness as a cosmetic material. Water-soluble hot alkali pig aorta (HAPA)-elastin was prepared from pig aorta using the hot alkali method. HAPA-elastin showed a widely distributed molecular weight and had a coacervation property that mediated reversible self-assembly of its molecules with increasing temperature. Amino acid analysis of HAPA-elastin showed a high content (81.5%) of hydrophobic amino acids such as Gly, Ala, Val, and Pro. Des (desmosine) and Ide (isodesmosine), which are characteristic amino acids of elastin, accounted for more than 0.4% of the total amino acid content. HAPA-elastin showed a moisture-retaining property. The water content of skin samples treated with and without HAPA-elastin was 77.2% ± 7.8% and 49.4% ± 10.1%, respectively. HAPA-elastin also inhibited tyrosinase activity by 11.3% ± 3.9%. The results obtained indicate that elastin has a useful function as a cosmetic material.

4 citations


Journal Article
TL;DR: Overall, the SSL composition is quite consistent in a controlled population of 22-year-old females, and the proposed mimetic could be a beneficial supplement to human SSLs in aged skin, as well as in skin where the stratum corneum is defective, by aiding in the restoration of barrier function, while increasing skin hydration, elasticity, and firmness.
Abstract: Introduction Skin surface lipids (SSLs) greatly affect the skin physiology and are thought to be involved in skin processes such as thermoregulation, bacterial colonization, and barrier function and maintenance. SSLs are primarily composed of fatty acids, triglycerides, cholesterol, steryl esters, wax esters, and squalene. The objective of this research was to evaluate and better understand the SSL composition and variation in an age- and sex-controlled population, and create an appropriate botanically derived mimetic. Methods SSL samples taken from the foreheads of 59 healthy, 22-year-old females were analyzed by gas chromatography mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Using botanically derived raw materials from Macadamia integrifolia, Simmondsia chinensis, and Olea europaea, a mimetic was engineered via a series of esterification reactions and lipid components quantitated with GC-MS. The glyceride and wax ester components were produced by the interesterification of M. integrifolia and S. chinensis under specified conditions. The steryl ester component was produced by the esterification of the fatty acids of M. integrifolia and phytosterols under similar conditions. Results The following major classes of lipids were found and quantified by percent composition: glycerides, free fatty acids, squalene, wax esters, steryl esters, and cholesterol. The variability between subjects for each component was minimal; however, the greatest variation was seen for free fatty acids and cholesterol. Correlations among the components were calculated and found to be statistically or directionally significant with few exceptions. The esterification reactions of jojoba, macadamia, and tall oils, along with a precise addition of squalene derived from O. europaea, produced a suitable SSL mimetic. When applied to delipidized skin, the mimetic helped restore barrier function, increased skin hydration, and increased skin elasticity and firmness in aged skin. Discussion The present research indicates that, overall, the SSL composition is quite consistent in a controlled population of 22-year-old females. Furthermore, there were strong correlations between the SSL components among subjects, with the exception of squalene and steryl esters. This was expected due to the fact that of the six major SSL components, steryl esters and squalene also showed higher variation over time for each individual. The variation in free fatty acids may be attributable to the potential differences in the microflora of the subjects. The variation in this study's results, as compared to previously published work, could indicate that the collection methods, geographic location, gender, and age specificity contribute to the distribution or collection of different lipid components on the skin surface. Since the excretion of sebum is known to decrease in females after 40 years of age, the proposed mimetic could be a beneficial supplement to human SSLs in aged skin, as well as in skin where the stratum corneum is defective, by aiding in the restoration of barrier function, while increasing skin hydration, elasticity, and firmness.

Journal Article
TL;DR: A capillary electrophoresis (CE) analysis method for BAC quantification was developed and was validated and applied on samples prepared by wringing out antibacterial wet wipes containing BAC without any further extraction.
Abstract: Benzalkonium chloride (BAC), which is a mixture of C8 and C18 alkylbenzyldimethylammonium chlorides, has an important biocide character and is used in many cosmetics, especially wet wipes, as a preservative and/or antibacterial agent. The concentration range of BAC is 0.005–0.5 % and it is an irritant substance when used at high concentrations. Thus, the concentration of BAC should be carefully monitored in commercial products intended for skin use. In this study, a capillary electrophoresis (CE) analysis method for BAC quantification was developed. The quantitative analysis was carried out by the external standard method. The electrophoretic separation was performed by using 75 mM (pH 6.0) phosphate buffer solution containing 30% acetonitrile as the electrolyte. The separation voltage was 10 kV and the temperature was held at 18°C. Samples were introduced into the capillary column hydrodynamically using 50.0-mbar pressure over a 3-s period. The developed method was validated and applied on samples prepared by wringing out antibacterial wet wipes containing BAC without any further extraction. The linearity of the method was controlled by applying the Mandel test. The limit of detection (LOD) values for the developed method were 0.313 and 0.309 µg/ml and the limit of quantification (LOQ) values were 1.042 and 1.029 µg/ml for C10 and C12 derivatives, respectively.

Journal Article
TL;DR: A petroleum-free skin cream was developed using food-grade ingredients and showed similar linear and nonlinear viscoelastic rheological properties, comparable skin hydration functions, and consumer acceptance as the commercially available skin cream.
Abstract: A petroleum-free skin cream was developed using food-grade ingredients. The rheological and sensorial properties of this petroleum-free skin cream were compared to a commercially available petroleum-based skin cream. Specifically, large-amplitude oscillatory shear (LAOS) characterization of the two skin creams was performed. The petroleum-free skin cream showed similar linear and nonlinear viscoelastic rheological properties, comparable skin hydration functions, and consumer acceptance as the commercially available skin cream. A schematic diagram aiming to correlate the physical and sensorial properties of skin cream was also proposed at the end of the work. Results of this work could provide the cosmetic industry necessary information for the development of alternatives for petroleum-based skin creams.

Journal Article
TL;DR: Significantly lower levels of AGEs were detected in the facial skin than in the forearm skin from the young Caucasian groups, and the difference was much larger for men than for women, which further highlights the gender difference.
Abstract: Using skin autofluorescence (SAF) as a marker of advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) has been extensively studied in the last decade since the introduction of the noninvasive in vivo measurement technique. Data have shown the level of skin AGEs increases with chronological age in healthy human beings, and this increase is substantially higher in age-matched diabetic patients. In skin research, glycation with the accompanying accumulation of skin AGEs has been regarded as one of the primary skin aging mechanisms that contribute to skin wrinkling and the loss of skin elasticity. To date, the totality of SAF data reported in literature has been obtained from measurements on the arm, and noninvasive measurement of facial skin AGE accumulation would add great value to skin aging research. In this study, we report the levels of facial and forearm skin AGEs in 239 men and women of 21-65 year of age. Significantly lower levels of AGEs were detected in the facial skin than in the forearm skin from the young Caucasian groups, and the difference was much larger for men than for women. The rate of change in skin AGE level over age was found to be about 50% higher in men than in women, which further highlights the gender difference. A statistically significant correlation between the levels of skin AGE and facial wrinkling was also observed. The facial skin AGE data may provide new insight into skin aging research.

Journal Article
TL;DR: The most commonly identified oral bacteria belonged to the Streptococcus genus, although other oral genera such as Actinomyces, Fusobacterium, Porphyromonas, and Lactobacillus were also detected.
Abstract: As soon as they are exposed to the environment, cosmetics become contaminated with microorganisms, and this contamination accumulates with increased use. In this study, we employed pyrosequencing to investigate the diversity of bacteria found on lipstick. Bacterial DNA was extracted from 20 lipstick samples and mixed in equal ratios for pyrosequencing analysis. As a result, 105 bacterial genera were detected, four of which (Leifsonia, Methylobacterium, Streptococcus, and Haemophilus) were predominant in 92% of the 19,863 total sequence reads. Potentially pathogenic genera such as Staphylococcus, Pseudomonas, Escherichia, Salmonella, Corynebacterium, Mycobacterium, and Neisseria accounted for 27.6% of the 105 genera. The most commonly identified oral bacteria belonged to the Streptococcus genus, although other oral genera such as Actinomyces, Fusobacterium, Porphyromonas, and Lactobacillus were also detected.

Journal Article
TL;DR: The results of the pivotal study suggested that the prototype formulation delivered significantly more cooling sensation than both BACTROBAN® disinfectant spray and negative control at 3 and 5 min after product application, and overall for a 15-min period after application.
Abstract: The aim of these two clinical studies was to evaluate the sensory characteristics and irritation potential of a prototype disinfectant spray (containing 0.13% w/v benzalkonium chloride and a cooling agent) in subjects with experimental wounds. The pilot study was a single center, "replicated latinClinicalTrials.ClinicalTrials. square design," randomized and double-blinded study. The pivotal study was a single center, randomized, controlled, crossover, double-blinded study, following a direct comparison test design of the study products. The experimental wounds were generated using sequential tape strippings of the forearm skin before product application. The test product was compared with the currently marketed BACTROBAN® disinfectant spray, negative control (0.9% w/v saline), and positive control (70% w/v isopropyl alcohol, pilot study only). The pilot study was intended to inform the study design and sample size for the pivotal study. The pilot study demonstrated that the positive control product delivered significantly more irritancy (stinging /burning sensory) than the negative control product on the experimental wound, which verified the integrity of the wound model. The results of the pivotal study suggested that the prototype formulation delivered significantly more cooling sensation than both BACTROBAN® disinfectant spray and negative control at 3 and 5 min after product application, and overall for a 15-min period after application. No statistically significant differences in product liking were observed between the prototype disinfectant spray and the BACTROBAN® disinfectant spray or negative control. The prototype disinfectant spray, BACTROBAN® disinfectant spray, and control products were well-tolerated in these studies.

Journal Article
TL;DR: Results show that some plant extracts, depending on storage conditions, may act as pro-oxidants, whereas the others can be applied as natural antioxidants instead of synthetic BHT.
Abstract: Cosmetic emulsions containing plant extracts should be tested in a range of temperatures from 5°C to 40°C to be sure that they will be stable during general use by consumers and that plant extracts used as antioxidants do not accelerate oxidative degradation of their oil base. The oxidative stability of argan oil-in-water emulsions containing 1% and 5% commercial acerola, willow, and rose extracts [or 0.01% butylhydroxytoluene (BHT)], stored at 5°C and 20°C for 6 months and at 40°C for 4 weeks, was monitored by the determination of peroxide content. The antioxidant or pro-oxidant activities of extracts or BHT in emulsions were expressed as the protection factor (PF) and inhibition of peroxide formation (Ip). At the end of storage, 5% willow, 0.01% BHT, 1% willow, and 5% acerola were the most protective for emulsions stored at 5°C. At 20°C, the most effective was 0.01% BHT, 5% rose, and 5% acerola. At 40°C, inhibition of peroxide formation calculated for 1% rose, 5% acerola, and 0.01 % BHT was similar. Altogether, the results show that some plant extracts, depending on storage conditions, may act as pro-oxidants, whereas the others can be applied as natural antioxidants instead of synthetic BHT.

Journal Article
TL;DR: On volunteers, sebum production, inflamed blemishes, and retentional lesions were significantly reduced after 1 month treatment with CCSV, and in vitro studies need to be performed to confirm in vitro results.
Abstract: Skin produces sebum through sebocytes. Hyper-seborrhea creates conditions for the development of inflamed cutaneous alterations through bacteria colonization triggering dead cell accumulation and pro-inflammatory mediator release. Study of sebum production, its modulation, and its consequences requires complementary in vitro models in order to evaluate the effect of molecules on cell metabolisms. Clinical studies need to be performed to confirm in vitro results. Effects of phenylpropanoids, obtained by elicitation and purification from plant cell culture of Syringa vulgaris (CCSV), were studied on sebocytes, keratinocytes, and explants, all derived from normal human skins. Normal human sebocytes (NHSs) expressed markers such as cytokeratin-7, cytokeratin-4, and perilipin-2 (PLIN-2) (1); the latter being colocalized with lipid droplets. Lipid droplets clearly appeared and their size increased rapidly when lipogenic agents were used. NHS, normal human keratinocytes (NHK), and explants reacted to presence of bacterial fragments which trigger pre-inflammatory mediator release. CCSV reduced lipid storage and release of pre-inflammatory mediators in NHS, NHK and explants. CCSV also reduced P. acnes growth and triggered beta-defensin-2 and cathelicidin synthesis by NHS, two natural antimicrobial peptides. On volunteers, sebum production, inflamed blemishes, and retentional lesions were significantly reduced after 1 month treatment with CCSV.



Journal Article
TL;DR: Significant differences between the loss moduli of the cuticle for the different samples provide insight into changes of the torsional energy loss due to the cosmetic processes and products, contributing toward a consistent view of tORSional energy storage and loss, namely, in the cuticles of hair.
Abstract: Torsional analysis of single human hairs is especially suited to determine the properties of the cuticle and its changes through cosmetic processing. The two primary parameters, which are obtained by free torsional oscillation using the torsional pendulum method, are storage (G') and loss modulus (G″). Based on previous work on G', the current investigation focuses on G″. The results show an increase of G″ with a drop of G' and vice versa, as is expected for a viscoelastic material well below its glass transition. The overall power of G″ to discriminate between samples is quite low. This is attributed to the systematic decrease of the parameter values with increasing fiber diameter, with a pronounced correlation between G″ and G'. Analyzing this effect on the basis of a core/shell model for the cortex/cuticle structure of hair by nonlinear regression leads to estimates for the loss moduli of cortex (G″co) and cuticle (G″cu). Although the values for G″co turn out to be physically not plausible, due to limitations of the applied model, those for G″cu are considered as generally realistic against relevant literature values. Significant differences between the loss moduli of the cuticle for the different samples provide insight into changes of the torsional energy loss due to the cosmetic processes and products, contributing toward a consistent view of torsional energy storage and loss, namely, in the cuticle of hair.

Journal Article
Da Eun Lee1, Jeong Eun Kwon1, Eui Su Choung1, Sung Ryul Lee1, Se Chan Kang1 
TL;DR: This work investigated the antimelanogenic and SSE that is prepared from the stalk of Sorghum bicolor L. Moench after ethanol (EtOH) extraction, and found that SSE and its fermented product can serve as good ingredients in new cosmeceutical compounds.
Abstract: Sorghum [Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench] is a major cereal crop. Despite the wide cultivation of sorghum, its stalks are used as hay and silage. The plant has numerous bioactive compounds including cosmeceutical ingredients. Thus, we investigated the antimelanogenic and SSE that is prepared from the stalk of Sorghum bicolor L. (SSE) after ethanol (EtOH) extraction. Based on the antioxidant capacity, antityrosinase activity, and suppression of the protein expression levels of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, -2, and -3 in human neonatal foreskin HDF-N cells, a 50% EtOH extraction of SSEs showed antimelanogenic and antiwrinkle potential. To enrich the cosmeceutical potential of SSE, a fermentation process was applied to SSE with the use of the fungus Aspergillus oryzae NK ( f SSE). On additional fermentation, the cosmeceutical potential of SSE increased with further enhancement of antityrosinase activity and suppression of MMP-1, -2, and -3 protein expression. SSE contains p-coumaric acid, and its level was enriched by the fermentation process. Collectively, SSE and its fermented product can serve as good ingredients in new cosmeceutical compounds.