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Laboratory study of the effect of varying wave periods on beach profiles
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The article was published on 1954-09-01 and is currently open access. It has received 9 citations till now. The article focuses on the topics: Wave flume & Wave tank.read more
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Journal Article
Macro-Meso Tidal Beach Morphodynamics: An Overview
TL;DR: A review of the literature reveals a considerable range in macro-tidal beach morphology and dynamics but with little perceived order in the range as mentioned in this paper, and identifies three types of macro tidal beaches.
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Beach face and berm morphodynamics fronting a coastal lagoon
TL;DR: In this paper, a conceptual model for berm morphodynamics is presented, based on sediment transport shape functions measured during the two modes of berm growth, i.e., vertical growth at spring tides or following significant beach cut due to substantial swash overtopping, and horizontal progradation at neap tides through the formation of a proto-berm located lower and further seaward of the principal berm.
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The relationship between wave action and beach profile characteristics
TL;DR: In this article, the results of a series of preliminary hydraulic model experiments carried out by the author prior to a model study of the behaviour of groynes in stabilising beaches are described.
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Laboratory study of scale effects in two-dimensional beach processes
Yuichi Iwagaki,Hideaki Noda +1 more
TL;DR: In this paper, the effects of wave height and sediment size on the shore line movement and equilibrium beach profiles are discussed based on the results of experiments made by the authors and other experiments with smaller and larger scales by some researchers.
Journal Article
The submarine equilibrium profile: a physical model
TL;DR: In this article, a series of physical equilibrium conditions, including the major mechanical forces involved in particle movement, are used to derive an analytical model, where x is a function of y, in relation with the offshore wave period (or wave length).