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Journal ArticleDOI

Modeling Flow In and Above a Porous Beach

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TLDR
In this paper, the authors developed a numerical model for the simulation of water flow in and above a porous beach, based on a previous hydrodynamic model of the swash zone, OTT-1D, and built on the numerical methods developed in the earlier model by the addition of a permeable layer representing a gravel beach.
Abstract
The development of a numerical model for the simulation of water flow in and above a porous beach is described. The model, OTTP-1D, is based on a previous hydrodynamic model of the swash zone, OTT-1D, and builds on the numerical methods developed in the earlier model by the addition of a permeable layer representing a gravel beach. The porewater flow equations used in the present model are described along with the boundary layer approach used to determine the bed shear stress when the effects of exchange between the free-flow and porewater flow regions of the model are taken into consideration. These equations are transformed so as to make them amenable to solution by an upwind finite volume method in the same way as the earlier model. The model is verified against a simple analytical case of Darcy flow and an estimate of lower limit of applicable grain size made thereby. Validation against observed water depths and free-flow velocities recorded on a gravel beach at Slapton, U.K. in 2001 is also undertaken. The model accurately predicts both measured instantaneous water depths and velocities. DOI: 10.1061/~ASCE!0733-950X~2004!130:5~223! CE Database subject headings: Porous media; Porous flow; Numerical models; Validation; Beaches.

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Journal ArticleDOI

Concepts in gravel beach dynamics

TL;DR: In this article, the dominant processes in gravel beach dynamics are reviewed, highlighting some common themes which unify the various components of the gravel beach system, the repercussions of which impart on how gravel Beach dynamics might be understood conceptually.
Journal ArticleDOI

Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq-Type Equations for Waves and Currents over Porous Beds

TL;DR: In this paper, a complete set of Boussinesq-type equations suitable for water waves and wave-induced nearshore circulation over an inhomogeneous, permeable bottom is introduced.
Journal ArticleDOI

Measurements and modelling of beach groundwater flow in the swash-zone: a review

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors present a review of the research on beach groundwater dynamics and identify research questions which will need to be answered before swash zone sediment transport and beach profile evolution can be successfully modelled.
Journal ArticleDOI

Modelling gravel barrier profile response to combined waves and tides using XBeach: Laboratory and field results

TL;DR: XBeach, a process-based numerical model capable of computing nearshore circulation and morphodynamics, including overwash and breaching, has been used in 1D mode to simulate erosion occurring on a gravel barrier beach (D50 ǫ = 11 mm) subjected to wave and tidal forcing during selected tests undertaken during the BARDEX experiments.
Journal ArticleDOI

Swash–groundwater interaction on a steep gravel beach

TL;DR: In this article, hydrodynamic measurements of swash depth, flow velocity and groundwater elevation were made using a cross-shore array of pressure transducers and current metres, and the role of two distinct pathways in the transferral of fluid from the swash to the groundwater was identified.
References
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Book

Riemann Solvers and Numerical Methods for Fluid Dynamics

TL;DR: In this article, the authors present references and index Reference Record created on 2004-09-07, modified on 2016-08-08 and a reference record created on 2003-09 -07.
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Riemann Solvers and Numerical Methods for Fluid Dynamics: A Practical Introduction

TL;DR: In this article, the generalized Riemann problem is used to solve the Euler Equation problem and the ADER approach is used for non-linear systems with finite forces in multiple dimensions.
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Water wave mechanics for engineers and scientists

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors present an introduction to classical water wave theory for the college senior or first year graduate student, with a set of homework problems exercising and sometimes extending the material presented in the chapter.
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Dynamics of marine sands

TL;DR: Dynamics of marine sands' specifically deals with coastal and offshore sea areas, as well as rivers and estuaries, for sand and gravel sediments as mentioned in this paper, presented a convenient and useable introduction to sediment processes in a form that is accessible to a wide readership.
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