Wave Directions in a Narrow Bay
TLDR
In this paper, three models with different assumptions on the directional coupling between the wave components were used to analyze the physics responsible for the directional behavior of the waves in the Baltic Sea.Abstract:
In slanting fetch conditions the direction of actively growing waves is strongly controlled by the fetch geometry. The effect was found to be pronounced in the long and narrow Gulf of Finland in the Baltic Sea, where it significantly modifies the directional wave climate. Three models with different assumptions on the directional coupling between the wave components were used to analyze the physics responsible for the directional behavior of the waves in the gulf. The directionally decoupled model produced the direction at the spectral peak correctly when the slanting fetch geometry was narrow but gave a weaker steering than observed when the fetch geometry was broader. The method of Donelan estimated well the direction at the spectral peak in well-defined slanting fetch conditions, but overestimated the longer fetch components during wave growth from a more complex shoreline. Neither the decoupled nor the Donelan model reproduced the observed shifting of direction with the frequency. The perform...read more
Citations
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Journal Article
Wave hindcast statistics in the seasonally ice-covered Baltic Sea
TL;DR: Six years of wave hindcasts, calculated by the wave model WAM, are used to compile wave statistics for the Baltic Sea, finding the severest wave climate is in the Baltic Proper and the wave climate in the other basins is considerably less severe.
Book ChapterDOI
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TL;DR: The transfer of gases and particles across the air-sea interface is controlled by several physical, biological and chemical processes in the atmosphere and water which are described here (including waves, large and small-scale turbulence, bubbles, sea spray, rain and surface films) as discussed by the authors.
Book ChapterDOI
Recent Change—Sea Level and Wind Waves
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors describe observed changes in sea level and wind waves in the Baltic Sea basin over the past 200 years and the main climate drivers of this change, and the datasets available for studying these are described in detail.
Journal ArticleDOI
Spatial patterns of the wave climate in the Baltic Proper and the Gulf of Finland
Tarmo Soomere,Andrus Räämet +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, a large part of the mismatches between long-term changes to wave properties at selected sites can be explained by the rich spatial patterns in changes to the Baltic Sea wave fields that are not resolved by the existing wave observation network.
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TL;DR: It is demonstrated that the most extreme erosion events occur when high waves excited by long-lasting western or south-western storms attack the coast during very high storm surges in the absence of stable sea ice.
References
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Book
Dynamics and Modelling of Ocean Waves
G. J. Komen,Luigi Cavaleri,Mark A. Donelan,Klaus Hasselmann,Susanne Hasselmann,Peter A. E. M. Janssen +5 more
TL;DR: The Wave Modelling Group (WAM) model as mentioned in this paper is based on a detailed physical description of air/sea interactions and is widely used for wave forecasting for meteorological and oceanographic purposes.
Journal ArticleDOI
Directional spectra of wind-generated waves
TL;DR: In this paper, the directional spectrum of wind-generated waves on deep water is determined by using a modification of Barber's (1963) method, and the results reveal that the frequency spectrum in the rear face is inversely proportional to the fourth power of the frequency.