Journal ArticleDOI
Wave energy transformation on natural profiles
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In this article, a wave energy transformation model, which includes wave breaking within the surf zone described by surface rollers, is developed for randomly varying waves over arbitrary bathymetry.About:
This article is published in Coastal Engineering.The article was published on 1996-05-01. It has received 82 citations till now. The article focuses on the topics: Breaking wave & Wind wave.read more
Citations
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Wave Heights and Set-up in a Surf Zone
TL;DR: In this article, a theoretical model for wave heights and set-up in a surf zone is developed for wave flux, radiation stress, and energy dissipation, and the transitions immediately after breaking are analyzed and shown to be in accordance with the above mentioned ideas.
Journal ArticleDOI
Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part I. Model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves
TL;DR: In this article, a two-dimensional wave model based on the surface roller concept for spilling breakers using a geometrical determination of the instantaneous roller thickness at each point and modelling the effect of wave breaking by an additional convective momentum term is presented.
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Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the swash zone: a review and perspectives
Berry Elfrink,Tom E. Baldock +1 more
TL;DR: In this paper, the dominant hydrodynamic forcing and resulting sediment transport mechanisms in the swash zone are reviewed, combined with a discussion of future measurement and modelling requirements, and the strengths and weaknesses of different approaches identified.
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Long-term morphological modeling of a tidal inlet: the Arcachon Basin, France
TL;DR: In this paper, a two-dimensional horizontal morphodynamic model was developed, combining modules for hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and bathymetry updates, which supported the idea that the Arcachon lagoon is unlikely to be disconnected from the ocean, provided tide and wave conditions remain fairly constant in the following decades.
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Wave-Driven Circulation of a Coastal Reef–Lagoon System
TL;DR: The response of the circulation of a coral reef system in Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii, to incident wave forcing was investigated using field data collected during a 10-month experiment as mentioned in this paper.
References
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Journal ArticleDOI
Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves
J.A. Battjes,J.P.F.M. Janssen +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, a model was developed for the prediction of the dissipation of energy in random waves breaking on a beach and the probability of occurrence of breaking waves was estimated on the basis of a wave height distribution with an upper cut-off which in shallow water is determined mainly by the local depth.
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Mechanics Of Coastal Sediment Transport
Jørgen Fredsøe,Rolf Deigaard +1 more
TL;DR: The main objective of as mentioned in this paper is to describe from a deterministic point of view the sediment transport in the general wave-current situation, which is useful for students with a background in basic hydrodynamics.
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Transformation of wave height distribution
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors reviewed earlier models of random wave transformation and described the transformation of waves, including dissipation due to breaking and bottom friction, by an energy flux balance model, and compared results from random wave experiments in the laboratory and from an extensive set of field measurements.
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Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone
TL;DR: In this article, it was shown that the undertow is driven by the local difference between radiation stress and the set-up pressure gradient which only balance each other in average over the depth.
Journal ArticleDOI
Breaker type classification on three laboratory beaches
TL;DR: Breaker type, for waves on smooth concrete slopes, depends on beach slope m, wave period T, and either deep-water or breaker height, H 0 or Hb as discussed by the authors.