Showing papers by "Chiang C. Mei published in 1977"
TL;DR: In this article, a linearized theory for the mean current is given for normal incidence and small depth perturbation, and the positions of the rip currents are shown to depend on the surf zone width and the on-offshore variation of depth.
27 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, an analytical theory for random waves impinging on a dissipative breakwater is presented, where the random-wave scattering problems are reduced to simple harmonic ones whose solutions are known.
22 citations
TL;DR: In this article, it was shown that the mass transport very near the bottom points towards a convex corner, but near the top of the boundary layer its direction reverses, and possible implications for silting near a pile and a harbour entrance are discussed and some experimental evidence given.
Abstract: Mass transport close to the sea bottom is investigated for simple harmonic waves around a body with a small horizontal dimension. For gravity waves it is shown that the mass transport very near the bottom points towards a convex corner, but near the top of the boundary layer its direction reverses. Possible implications for silting near a pile and a harbour entrance are discussed and some experimental evidence given. For tides, the Coriolis force introduces a spiralling variation within the boundary layer, and possible inferences for coastline modification are drawn.
14 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the averaged circulation caused by waves breaking along the beach of a constant slope around a circular island in a sea of constant depth was investigated, and it was reasoned that the refraction pattern determined the extent of longshore circulation.
10 citations