Showing papers in "Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2008"

The role of sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) micelles in inducing skin barrier perturbation in the presence of glycerol.

Abstract: The stratum corneum (SC) serves as the skin barrier between the body and the environment. When the skin is contacted with an aqueous solution of the surfactant sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), a well-known model skin irritant, SDS penetrates into the skin and disrupts this barrier. It is well established, both in vitro and in vivo, that the SDS skin penetration is dose-dependent, and that it increases with an increase in the total SDS concentration above the critical micelle concentration (CMC) of SDS. However, when we added the humectant glycerol at a concentration of 10 wt% to the aqueous SDS contacting solution, we observed, through in vitro quantitative skin radioactivity assays using (14)C-radiolabeled SDS, that the dose dependence in SDS skin penetration is almost completely eliminated. To rationalize this important observation, which may also be related to the well-known beneficial effects of glycerol on skin barrier perturbation in vivo, we hypothesize that the addition of 10 wt% glycerol may hinder the ability of the SDS micelles to penetrate into the skin barrier through aqueous pores that exist in the SC. To test this hypothesis, we conducted mannitol skin permeability as well as average skin electrical resistivity measurements in vitro upon exposure of the skin to an aqueous SDS contacting solution and to an aqueous SDS + 10 wt% glycerol contacting solution in the context of a hindered-transport aqueous porous pathway model of the SC. Our in vitro studies demonstrated that the addition of 10 wt% glycerol: (i) reduces the average aqueous pore radius resulting from exposure of the skin to the aqueous SDS contacting solution from 33 +/- 5 Angstrom to 20 +/- 5 Angstrom, such that a SDS micelle of radius 18.5 +/- 1 Angstrom (as determined using dynamic light-scattering measurements) experiences significant steric hindrance and cannot penetrate into the SC, and (ii) reduces the number density of aqueous pores in the SC by more than 50%, thereby further reducing the ability of the SDS micelles to penetrate into the SC and perturb the skin barrier.

Why women use makeup: implication of psychological traits in makeup functions.

Abstract: Makeup acts and stimulates three of our senses: touch (which encompasses all sensations from the body surface), smell (fragrance), and sight (the process of becoming and looking beautiful). The positive stimulation of these senses by makeup can induce sensory as well as psychological pleasure. In order to understand the relationship of women to their makeup, we interviewed different groups of women on their quality of life and makeup habits. Then, through four standard well-validated psychometric self-questionnaires, we examined the possible relation between the need to make up oneself and specific psychological features. Our first results clearly showed that makeup could support two opposite "up" functions, i.e., "camouflage" vs "seduction." Concerning their psychological profiles, results showed that women of the functional class "camouflage" are more anxious, defensive, and emotionally unstable compared to those of the functional class "seduction," who appear to be more sociable, assertive, and extroverted. Further analyses revealed a division of the two classes into subclasses of volunteers with opposed personality and psychological profiles. This new classification allowed us to define more precisely the relations existing within the subjective experience of women during the makeup process. In conclusion, our study revealed that beyond the simple application of colorful products on the face, makeup has two major functional implications depending on specific psychological profiles of women.

Comparison of hair shaft damage after UVA and UVB irradiation.

Abstract: Sunlight, especially ultraviolet (UV) light-induced hair damage is difficult to avoid during daily life. Concerns about the effects of ultraviolet light on hair are emerging recently. These photochemical changes mainly come from damage to hair proteins and melanins. In this study, we performed experiments to find the patterns of morphological and biochemical changes in UV-light-induced damage to hair by scanning and transmission electron microscopy and hair protein analysis. In our results, morphological damage is significant in UVB-irradiated hairs, while biochemical changes are greater in UVA-irradiated hairs.

Electrospun poly(vinyl alcohol) fiber mats as carriers for extracts from the fruit hull of mangosteen.

Abstract: electrospun fiber mats prepared at 2.5%,5%, and 10% w/w of the extract were 9.6%, 9.7%, and 10.8% of the initial loading concentration, respectively, whereas, those in the cast films were 23.9%, 14.5%, and 21.0%, respectively. The release of the extract from the electrospun fiber mats prepared at 2.5%, 5%, and 10% w/w of the extract at 120 min were 73.2%, 83.6%, and 81.3% w/w, respectively. However, much slower release from the cast films was observed (i.e., 4.3%, 29.1 %, and 40.8% w/w, respectively).

Evaluation of liposomal and conventional formulations of octyl methoxycinnamate on human percutaneous absorption using the stripping method.

Abstract: mulation of OMC in MLVs was significantly greater than in the o/w emulsion and SUVs. Furthermore, SUV's penetration into the deeper skin layers was significantly greater than MLV's and that of a conventional o/w emulsion. Also, higher amounts of OMC were recovered from the upper layers of the stratum corneum than from the deeper layers in all the formulations tested. Finally, the SPF of the liposomes containing OMC was slightly greater than that of the control lotions at a similar concentration of OMC. In conclusion, the result of this study indicates that an MLV prepared by the fusion method could be a better vehicle for OMC as a sunscreen since it has a slightly better SPF compared to a conventional formulation and more remains in the stratum corneum, reducing its penetration to the deeper layers.

Evaluation of the effect of Thai breadfruit's heartwood extract on melanogenesis-inhibitory and antioxidation activities.

Abstract: The aim of this study was to clarify the melanogenesis-inhibitory and antioxidant activity of Thai breadfruit's heartwood extract for application as a skin-lightening agent. The heartwood of breadfruit (Artocarpus incisus ) grown in Phitsanulok Province, Thailand, was extracted by using diethyl ether or methanol. The amount of artocarpin, a major component of A. incisus extract, was determined by using the HPLC method. The artocarpin content found in ether extract was 45.19 +/- 0.45% w/w, whereas that in methanol extract was 19.61 +/- 0.05% w/w. The ether extract was then evaluated for tyrosinase-inhibitory, melanogenesis-inhibitory, and antioxidant activities. The tyrosinase-inhibitory activity was tested in vitro by monitoring the inhibition of the extract against the formation of DOPAchrome by tyrosinase enzyme. The results showed that the tyrosinase-inhibitory activity of the extract was in a dose-dependent manner. The obtained IC50 value was 10.26 +/- 3.04 microg/ml, while kojic acid, a well-known tyrosinase inhibitor, provided an IC50 of 7.89 +/- 0.18 microg/ml. Melanocyte B16F1 melanoma cells (ATCC No. CRL-6323) were then used for determination of the melanogenesis-inhibitory activity of the extract, comparing it to hydroquinone, kojic acid, and purified artocarpin. The amount of melanin produced by the cells was monitored by measuring an absorbence at 490 nm. The obtained results indicated that A. incisus extract at a concentration of 2 to 25 microg/ml was able to decrease the melanin production of the melanocyte B16F1 cells. The obtained micrograph also confirmed that the extract did not change the cell morphology but reduced the melanin content by inhibiting melanin synthesis, whereas the purified artocarpin at a concentration of 4.5 microg/ml caused changes in cell morphology. Additionally, the extract exhibited antioxidant activity in a dose-dependent manner at an EC50 of 169.53 +/- 9.73 microg/ml, according to DPPH assay. The obtained results indicated that the ether extract of A. incisus 's heartwood has the potential of acting as a skin-lightening agent for application in cosmetics.

Characterization of curved hair of Japanese women with reference to internal structures and amino acid composition

Abstract: The variation of hair curvature in Japanese women was quantitatively investigated and the structure of curved hair was characterized with transmission electron microscopy (TEM) and amino acid analysis. Two hundred and thirty Japanese women volunteers, aged from 10 to 70 years, were randomly selected. The evaluation of the volunteers' natural hair shape showed that 53% of Japanese women have straight hair, while the remaining 47% have curved hair (varying from a slightly wavy shape to a frizzy style). The average curl radius of the volunteers' hair was determined to be 4.4 +/- 2.3 cm, and ranged widely from 0.6 to 16 cm. The TEM observation of curved hair fiber revealed an inhomogenous internal structure between the outer and inner regions of the curved shape. In relation to the inhomogeneous structure of the curved hair, different amino acid composition of the hair keratin was observed between the outer and inner regions. Interestingly, these results of the TEM observation and the amino acid analysis are analogous to the difference between the ortho- and paracortical cells in wool fibers, suggesting the universal structure of curved mammalian hair.

Anti-inflammatory activity of Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum extract and its application as a cosmeceutical ingredient.

Abstract: Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum has long been used as a rheumatic remedy, as an anti-pyretic and as an anti-ulcer treatment, and for the alleviation of local pain and fever in Korea and Malaysia. In order to investigate the possibility of Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum extract as a cosmetic ingredient, we measured its anti-inflammatory effect by its inhibition of iNOS (inducible nitric oxide synthase) and the release of PGE2, IL-6, and IL-8. We also measured its anti-allergic effect by its inhibition of beta-hexosamidase release. An HPLC experiment after extraction with 95% EtOH at pH 3.5 showed that Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum was mainly composed of lycorine (up to 1%), a well-known immunosuppressor. The content of lycorine varied, depending on the type of plant tissue analyzed and the extraction method. In an anti-inflammatory assay for inhibition of nitric oxide formation on lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-activated mouse macrophage RAW 264.7 cells, the ethanol extract of Crinum asiaticum showed an inhibitory activity of NO production in a dose-dependent manner (IC50 = 58.5 microg/ml). Additional study by RT-PCR demonstrated that the extract of Crinum asiaticum significantly suppressed the expression of the iNOS gene. Moreover, the extract of Crinum asiaticum did not show any cytotoxicity, but did show a cell proliferation effect against LPS (a 10 approximately 60% increase in cell viability). In an assay to determine inhibition of the H2O2-activated release of PGE2, IL-6, and IL-8 in human normal fibroblast cell lines, the release of PGE2 and IL-6 was almost completely inhibited above concentrations of 0.05% and 1%, respectively. Moreover, the release of IL-8 was completely inhibited over the entire range of concentration (>0.0025%). In order to investigate the skin-sensitizing potentials of the extract of Crinum asiaticum, a human clinical test was performed after repeated epicutaneous 48-h applications under an occlusive patch (RIPT). The repeated and single cutaneous applications of Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum extract under the occlusive patch did not provoke any cumulative irritation and sensitization reactions. The result showed that the extract of Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum has a sufficient anti-inflammatory effect. Therefore, Crinum asiaticum Linne var. japonicum extract may be useful for development as an ingredient in cosmetic products.

Effect of oil films on moisture vapor absorption on human hair

Abstract: In this paper sorption and desorption of water vapor on hair fibers treated with various oils is investigated, using a dynamic vapor sorption (DVS) apparatus. Results show lower "equilibrium" sorption of moisture for various oil-treated samples compared to the untreated sample. Coconut oil-treated hair had a higher regain than mineral oil-treated hair. Although treating the hair samples with oil reduced moisture pickup, a considerable amount of moisture vapor was still able to penetrate into hair fibers. Calculated hysteresis plots show that the samples treated with different oils have slightly higher moisture retention at low relative humidities compared to that of the untreated sample, which suggests a beneficial effect. The calculated moisture diffusion coefficients for oil-treated samples were much lower compared to the untreated hair fibers, suggesting that surface oil films and penetrated oil molecules form a diffusion barrier. A moisture diffusion model is discussed in terms of the possible role of fiber swelling on restrictive narrowing of the cell membrane complexes (CMCs), which form the diffusion pathways in the fiber. The effect of film thickness on moisture absorption and the reverting of the sorption isotherm to that of the untreated hair after removal of the oil film shows that oil film is the main resistance to moisture diffusion. The lowering of the diffusion coefficient of water vapor by oil films will slow the loss of moisture, an effect similar to "moisturization" of hair.

Visualization and quantification of skin barrier perturbation induced by surfactant-humectant systems using two-photon fluorescence microscopy.

Abstract: In order to visualize the effects of aqueous surfactant-humectant systems on the skin barrier, an in vitro two-photon fluorescence microscopy (TPM) study, including dual-channel visualization, was carried out. TPM is a non-invasive imaging technique based on two-photon induced nonlinear excitations of fluorophores, with the capability for deep-tissue imaging (up to several hundred micrometers). The following aqueous solutions of surfactants, a humectant, and a surfactant+humectant mixture that contacted pig full-thickness skin (p-FTS) were studied: (i) a harsh surfactant solution-sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) (1 wt%); (ii) a harsh surfactant+humectant solution-SDS (1 wt%) + glycerol (10 wt%); (iii) a mild surfactant solution-sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) (1 wt%); (iv) a control solution-phosphate-buffered saline (PBS); and (v) a humectant solution-glycerol (10 wt%). Sulforhodamine B (SRB), a hydrophilic fluorescent probe, was used to visualize the effects of aqueous contacting solutions i-v on the skin barrier morphology. The results of the TPM visualization study revealed that SDS induces corneocyte damage by denaturing keratins and creating intracorneocyte penetration pathways. On the other hand, SDS+glycerol did not significantly induce corneocyte damage. The dual-channel TPM images corresponding to aqueous contacting solutions iii-v showed low SRB penetration into the corneocytes, as well as localization of the SRB probe within the lipid bilayers surrounding the corneocytes of the SC. Through a quantification of the amount of SRB that penetrated into the skin as a function of skin depth, we found that adding glycerol to an SDS aqueous contacting solution can significantly reduce the SDS-induced penetration depth of SRB, which provides evidence of the ability of glycerol to mitigate SDS-induced skin barrier perturbation. The distribution of SRB in the p-FTS samples was analyzed using a theoretical model that quantified changes in the skin aqueous pore characteristics induced by aqueous contacting solutions i, ii, iii, and v, relative to aqueous contacting solution iv, the control. The results of the theoretical model indicate the following ranking order in the extent of perturbation to the skin aqueous pores (from the highest to the lowest): i > ii > iii > iv > v. The development of such an in vitro visual ranking methodology, including quantification using TPM, can potentially reduce many costly in vivo screening procedures, thereby significantly reducing the cost and time-to-market of new cosmetic formulations containing surfactants and humectants.

In vivo spectrophotometric evaluation of skin barrier recovery after topical application of soybean phytosterols.

Abstract: The skin's uppermost thin layer, stratum corneum, plays a crucial role in protecting the body against unwanted influences from the environment. Disruption of the stratum corneum, by tape stripping or chemical injury, results in epidermal recovery of the skin barrier. Soy phytosterols are widely used in the cosmetic field as active ingredients in creams and lipsticks. Furthermore, they deserve an important place among nutracosmeceuticals; in fact, after their absorption from the diet they are transferred from the plasma to the skin, playing an important role in the constitution of skin surface lipids. The aim of the present work was to study the effect of the topical application of soybean phytosterols on skin barrier recovery in human volunteers using the extent of methyl nicotinate (MN)-induced erythema in damaged skin as a parameter to evaluate the rate of stratum corneum recovery. MN was chosen as an erythematogenous substance for its capability to cause an erythema whose intensity and duration are proportional to the quantity of the substance that has entered the living epidermis over time. MN-induced erythema was monitored using reflectance spectrophotometry as a noninvasive instrumental technique. The results show clearly that soy phytosterols exert positive results on skin repair; in fact, three days after tape stripping, the sites treated with a formulation containing phytosterols showed an appreciable recovery of barrier function compared to those treated with a vehicle control without soy phytosterols.

Biological activities of selected peptides: skin penetration ability of copper complexes with peptides.

Abstract: This study concerning the permeability through skin barriers of copper complexes with peptides is an important part of the research on their biological activity. The transport of copper complexes through the skin is essential in treatment of dermatological dysfunctions connected to the deficiency of these elements in the skin. During the last several years, a special interest in transepidermal copper delivery has been observed. This is the reason why copper compounds have been used as active compounds in care cosmetics. Yet, the transport process of copper complexes with tripeptides, glycyl-histidyl-lysine GHK, or gamma-glutamyl-cysteinyl-glycine GSH through the stratum corneum has received very little attention in the literature so far. The penetration ability of GHK-Cu and GSH-Cu through the stratum corneum and the influence of the complexes with tripeptide on the copper ion transport process is the key factor in their cosmetic and pharmaceutical activity. The in vitro penetration process was studied in the model system, a Franz diffusion cell with a liposome membrane, where liquid crystalline systems of physicochemical properties similar to the ones of the intercellular cement of stratum corneum were used as a standard model of a skin barrier. The results obtained demonstrated that copper complexes permeate through the membranes modeling the horny lipid layer and showed the influence of peptides on the dynamics of copper ion diffusion.

The effects of placental extract on fibroblast proliferation.

Abstract: Human placental extract is used in the treatment of skin wrinkles and wounds. To date, no studies have evaluated the effects of placental extract on dermal fibroblast proliferation. To investigate the effects of placental extract versus ascorbic acid on fibroblast proliferation and transforming growth factor (TGF)-beta1 expression, cultured human fibroblasts were treated with placental extract (0, 0.08, 0.16, 0.32, and 0.64%) or L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate magnesium (0, 0.01, 0.1, 1.0, and 10 mM). Fibroblast proliferation was determined by MTT assay, and TGF-beta1 protein expression was analyzed by ELISA. The proliferation of fibroblasts increased significantly after treatment with placental extract at concentrations of 0.32 and 0.64% and with L-ascorbic acid-2-phosphate magnesium at concentrations of 1.0 and 10 mM. Placental extract demonstrated no significant effects on TGF-beta1 expression; however, TGF-beta1 expression significantly increased after treatment with ascorbic acid at concentrations of 1.0 and 10 mM. Placental extract and ascorbic acid had similar effects on fibroblast proliferation; however, placental extract did not significantly increase TGF-beta1 protein expression.

Simultaneous determination of heavy metals in cosmetic products.

Abstract: An extremely small amount of several heavy metals have been detected in cosmetic products as impurities, which can cause skin allergies through percutaneous adsorption on the skin. We present here a fast, accurate, and highly sensitive method for simultaneous determination of Pb2+, Fe2+, Cu2+, Ni2+, Zn2+, Co2+, Cd2+ and Mn2+ in coloring agents and cosmetic products, to be evaluated by ion chromatography. All of these metals are well separated through a bifunctional ion-exchange column (IonPac CS5A) and detected by post-column reaction and spectrophotometric detection. The calibration graphs are linear (r2 > 0.999), in the range 0.1-1000 microg/ml. Detection limits for a 200-microl sample solution are at the mug/l level, which is sufficient for judging whether the product is safe or not. The relative standard deviations (RSDs) of the retention time and the peak area are less than 0.21% and 1.24%, respectively. The recovery rates are 97-104%. The result shows that the proposed determination method is more sensitive, more accurate, and faster than current methods such as HPLC, ICP-MS and Flame-AAS. The new method was applied to analyze the amount of heavy metals contained in 22 cosmetic products and 11 coloring agents.

True porosity measurement of hair: a new way to study hair damage mechanisms.

Abstract: This study employs a novel method, gas sorption (1), to quantify the porosity characteristics of hair by determining total pore volume, adsorption pore-size distribution, and the surface area of damaged hair. Damage mechanisms were studied by comparing the different pore volume and surface area resulting from two different types of damage: chemical and UV. Hair color measurement and tensile strength, both reflecting the changes in hair cortex, were also employed in this study. The results suggest that hair damage caused by oxidative bleach and UV oxidation follows different pathways. Chemical damage (oxidative bleach) nearly triples the hair surface area in the first minute of bleaching due to the increase in the number of pores, followed by a sudden drop after 10 min of bleaching from smaller pores breaking down into larger ones. In contrast, UV damage shows an immediate loss in surface area in the first 200 hr of exposure and a gradual increase as exposure time continues.

Wool peptide derivatives for hand care.

Abstract: Hands experience much greater wear and tear during normal daily routines compared with most other parts of the body, and thereby demand specific needs from cosmetics targeted at hand care. Keratin proteins are the major structural component of the outer layers of the skin. In this work a novel keratin fraction from wool, which has high cystine content present in the S-sulphonated form, has been developed to target hand care applications. In vivo long-term studies were performed to evaluate the water-holding capacity and elasticity of hand skin following topical application of keratins. Moreover, protection of healthy skin against detergent-induced dermatitis was evaluated after topical application of the keratin-active formulation. Significant results in the measured biophysical parameters were found, which indicated an improvement in the skin's water-holding capacity, hydration, and elasticity for volunteers with dry skin as a result of the keratin peptide treatment. Results also indicated that the keratin peptide treatment can prevent some of the damaging effects associated with surfactant exposure.

AFM capabilities in characterization of particles and surfaces: from angstroms to microns.

Abstract: Scanning probe microscopy (SPM), invented 25 years ago, is now routinely employed as a surface characterization technique. Atomic force microscopy (AFM) is the most widely used form of SPM, since AFM can be used in ambient conditions with minimal sample preparation. Examples of applications relevant to cosmetics include, but are not limited to, hair and skin roughness measurements and powder particle and nano-emulsion characterization. AFM is well suited for individual particle characterization, especially for measurements of volume, height, size, shape, aspect ratio, and particle surface morphology. Statistical distributions for a large set of particles can be generated through single-particle analysis techniques (i.e., ensemble-like information). AFM is better capable of resolving complex particle-size distributions than dynamic light-scattering (DLS). Single-particle analysis techniques with AFM can be more cost- and time-effective than analyses using scanning electron microscopy (SEM). However, AFM offers resolution that is comparable to or greater than SEM or transmission electron microscopy (TEM) and routinely allows direct measurements of the particle height and volume and produces images easily displayed in a quantified 3D format.

A study of the chemical composition of traditional eye cosmetics ("kohls") used in Qatar and Yemen.

Abstract: This study looks at the chemical composition of traditional eye cosmetics ("kohls") used in Qatar and Yemen. Of especial interest was how many samples in each country contain the toxic element lead. In Qatar 19 observably different kohl samples were obtained, and in Yemen ten such samples obtained. The analytical techniques of scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and X-ray powder diffraction (XRPD) were used to study the samples. For the samples from Qatar, six of the 19 (32%) contained galena (lead sulfide, PbS)--all as the main component. However, for the samples from Yemen, five of the ten (50%) samples contained galena as the main component, with another three having it present as a minor component. Overall, the other main components were found to be: amorphous carbon (3), iron oxides (hematite, Fe2O3; and goethite, FeO(OH)) (1), quartz (SiO2) (1), sassolite (H3BO3) (5), talc (Mg3Si4O10(OH)2) (1), and zincite (ZnO) (7).

A dual mechanism of 4-hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone inhibiting cellular melanogenesis.

Abstract: In previous studies, 4-hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone (HMF) was shown to have potent antioxidative and antimelanogenic effects, suggesting its potential use as a depigmenting agent. The present study investigated its mechanism of action on murine melanoma B16F10 cells stimulated by theophylline, an activator of the cyclic AMP/protein kinase A signaling leading to tyrosinase gene expression. When the cells were stimulated with theophylline, there were dose-dependent increases in cellular tyrosinase protein content and melanin formation, as expected. HMF inhibited the theophylline-stimulated melanin formation as effectively as arbutin, one of the most widely used depigmenting agents in cosmetics. HMF appeared to reduce tyrosinase mRNA and protein content in the cells stimulated by theophylline, indicating it inhibited tyrosinase gene expression. HMF also effectively inhibited tyrosinase-catalyzed melanin formation from dihydroxyphenylalanine in the cells as well as in vitro. Therefore, the antimelanogenic effects of HMF were best explained by a dual mechanism inhibiting tyrosinase gene expression and the enzyme activity of pre-existing tyrosinase.

Red pigment from Lithospermum erythrorhizon by supercritical CO2 extraction.

Abstract: In this study, a stable red pigment was prepared from Lithospermum erythrorhizon via supercritical carbon dioxide extraction. The optimal extraction conditions were 400 bar and 60 degrees C. The patch tests indicated that up to 10% of the red pigment was acceptable from a skin irritation standpoint. According to the results of the CIE LAB chromaticity test, the color difference was acceptable when compared to commercial synthetic red pigments. The light-illuminated color stability test indicated that the pigment was more stable than the red pigment extracted with ethanol. The higher stability was also demonstrated in the DPPH antioxidant activity test. The supercritical red pigment harbored elevated amounts of shikonin and derivatives, and appears to be usable as a stable red pigment for cosmetic color products.

Enhanced depigmenting effects of N-glycosylation inhibitors delivered by pH-sensitive liposomes into HM3KO melanoma cells.

Abstract: Delivery activity of pH-sensitive 1,2-dioleoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphoethanolamine (DOPE):cholesteryl hemisuccinate (CHEMS) liposomes was assessed as an in vitro intracellular carrier system to increase the bioavailability of depigmentation actives. N-glycosylation inhibitors have a glycosylation-inhibiting effect, which is useful for the skin depigmentation that operates by interfering with the maturation of tyrosinase. However, an N-glycosylation inhibitor does not easily pass through skin or even cellular membranes due to its water-soluble property. Therefore, it should be transported to target cells by an efficient delivery carrier to reduce the glycosylated tyrosinase. Glycosylation-inhibiting and depigmentation effects of N-butyldeoxynojirimycine (NB-DNJ) and 1-deoxynojirimycine (DNJ)-loaded liposomes were evaluated using Western blotting and measurement of synthesized melanin. Interestingly, it was found that the pH-sensitive liposomes increased the glycosylation-inhibiting and thus, pigment-lightening effects of N-glycosylation inhibitors in vitro. In addition, cargo materials loaded in pH-sensitive liposomes were found to be much more efficiently delivered into the cytoplasm, as observed in fluorescent-activated cell sorting (FACS) and confocal laser-scanning microscopic (CLSM) analysis. These results indicate that pH-sensitive DOPE:CHEMS liposomes have a strong potential as a carrier system to promote delivery efficiency and to enhance the biological effects of water-soluble actives for applications in cosmetics, personal care products, and pharmaceutics.

Formulation, characterization, and efficacy of an adenosine-containing dissolvable film for a localized anti-wrinkle effect.

Abstract: A water-dissolvable film was developed to topically deliver adenosine for a localized anti-wrinkle effect. The polymers used to produce the film were cellulose derivatives. An aqueous mixture of the film components was made, coated on a liner, and then dried to form a solid film. No preservatives were added and the film was shown to be stable over time. The film quickly dissolves in water to form a uniform layer at the surface of the skin, as shown by scanning electron microscopy. The film layer can still be visualized on the wrinkle six hours after being applied on the skin. A randomized, placebo-controlled, investigator-blind study was conducted in female volunteers to assess the efficacy of the 1% adenosine-containing dissolvable film. After three weeks and eight weeks, a twice daily application led to a significant decrease in the skin roughness parameters as observed using fast optical in vivo topometry (FOITS). These results demonstrate that water-dissolvable films may be used as novel, preservative-free, cosmetic delivery systems.

Determination of optimal dead sea salt content in a cosmetic emulsion using rheology and stability measurements.

Abstract: Dead Sea mud and salts are known for their therapeutic and cosmetic properties. The presence of Dead Sea (DS) salts in different types of cosmetics has affected the stability and the flow properties of the finished products. In this study, an attempt was made to find the optimum Dead Sea salt content in a cosmetic emulsion (model of body cream) using both rheology and stability measurements. The rheological properties were tested during a four-month storage period at three different storage temperatures: 8 degrees C, room temperature, and 45 degrees C. In addition to rheological measurements and centrifuge tests, the conductivities of the emulsion samples were also determined. The centrifuge tests showed that the cream samples containing more than 0.25 wt% of DS salt showed phase separation. The addition of DS salt to the cosmetic emulsion led to two maxima in the emulsion viscosity at salt contents of 0.07 wt% and 0.15 wt%. However, the emulsion samples containing 0.15% of DS salt was considered the optimum sample since it contained the maximum amount of salt and exhibited the maximum viscosity at all tested conditions. It was found that the viscosity of the emulsion is increased with storage time and storage temperature. This behavior was accompanied by a decrease in conductivity. This behavior was explained by water evaporation from the emulsion. However, it has been shown that the presence of DS salt in the cosmetic emulsion significantly reduces the rate of water evaporation. The conductivity measurements reflect the rate of water evaporation, and the presence of DS salt reduces the rate of conductivity. Conductivity is observed to decrease with storage time and temperature.

Influence of cellulose polymers on the semipermanent dyestuff process for yak hair: an analytical investigation.

Abstract: The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of some cellulose polymers mixed in a semipermanent dyestuff on the dye uptake of yak hair fiber and color fading after repeated washing cycles. Two different classes of commercial polymers were tested: non-ionic and cationic. Formulations based on a mixture of HC and basic dyes, with different molecular sizes, were employed as representative dyestuffs. UV-Vis spectroscopy and colorimetric measurements were used to analyze the extracted dyes from the yak hair cuticle and cortex. The results obtained indicate that the presence of cationic polymers in the dye bath improves both the quality of the dyeing process and the anti-fading effect during the first washing cycles.

Effects of permanent waving on changes of protein and physicomorphological properties in human head hair.

Abstract: Two types of permanent waving [digital perm (DP) and croquignole winding perm (CWP)] and two waving lotions [cysteamine-HCl, pH 9.31, liquid type (lotion A) and sodium thioglycolate, pH 9.97, cream type (lotion B)] were used for this study. The protein content was decreased by permanent waving treatments on the whole, and the degree of reduction was dependent on the hair styling and waving lotion used. The greatest decrease (by 58%) was found in hairs processed with the three-treatment performance of DP using lotion B. SDS-PAGE identified the presence of the two most abundant polypeptides, with approximately 48 kDa and 60 kDa, and two large polypeptides, with approximately 200 kDa and 210 kDa, which would belong to the keratin family. Some physical properties of the hairs (tensile strength, diameter, swelling, and elongation) were examined with the permanent waving treatments. In general, the repeated waving treatment and the use of lotion B showed more negative effects on hair care than other treatments. Some morphological changes were observed with a scanning electron microscope (SEM). The most prominent change in the hair surface was observed in the hair specimen with the three-treatment performance of DP using lotion B. More severe signs of damage appeared on the hair with lotion B than with lotion A. As the numbers of permanent waves increased, the degree of damage to the hair surface increased on the whole. However, there was no indication of changes to the hair surface with one permanent waving treatment, as determined by SEM analysis.

The differences in human cumulative irritation responses to positive and negative irritant controls from three geographical locations.

Abstract: A retrospective analysis was conducted to evaluate whether studies from three geographically diverse locations have similar response profiles to the positive and negative controls in a standard 14-day cumulative irritation study (1). The positive irritant control (0.1% sodium lauryl sulfate, SLS) and the negative control (0.9% sodium chloride, saline) data from seventeen 14-day cumulative irritation studies were reviewed. The studies were compiled from three locations representing dry/hot, humid/hot, and dry/cold environments (Scottsdale, Arizona; St. Petersburg, Florida; and Winnipeg, Manitoba, respectively). Irritation scores were generated by trained skin graders from a total of 442 subjects studied between 1999 and 2005. Cumulative irritation scores were reviewed and compared between study locations. The irritation scores for the positive and negative controls were not significantly different between locations. Temperature and relative humidity (RH) variation did not correlate significantly with overall irritation. However, the dryer climate (i.e., negative or low dew point) had a tendency to induce a higher overall irritation level for both positive and negative controls.

A simple analysis of the changes during evaporation of a commercial emulsion of unknown composition.

Abstract: Optical microscopy and centrifugation were used to observe the structural changes during evaporation of a commercial skin lotion of unknown composition. The degree of evaporation was determined from the changed weight of a microscope slide with the emulsion on a defined area and thickness, the evaporation loss versus time being measured by a balance under an infrared lamp. The results revealed not only which parts of the emulsion were most prone to evaporation without chemical analysis, but also gave surprising information as to which kind of structures would appear after extensive evaporation. The importance of these changes for the action of a skin lotion is briefly discussed.

Protocol to predict the dry skin benefit from the unique in-shower body lotion product form.

Abstract: A controlled exposure method was developed to predict dry skin improvement from a new in-shower body lotion product form. An in-shower body lotion is used in the shower after cleansing, and methods for cleansers and leave-on lotions are not applicable. Protocol parameters were chosen on the basis of consumer habits and practices studies and randomized clinical testing. The resulting protocol is consumer-relevant, and reliably and reproducibly predicts dry skin improvement from the in-shower body lotion product form.

Microbiological assessment of the ultraviolet screening effect of sunscreen preparations.

Abstract: The purpose of this study was the development of a microbiological method for the assessment of the ultraviolet (UV) screening effect of sunscreen preparations and determination of their sun protection factor. The method is based on the lethal effect of UV radiation on Escherichia coli (E. coli ) and the protective ability of sunscreens. The time of UV exposure required for the reduction of the E. coli viable count by 90% (decimal reduction time, DRT) was used as the photoprotection assessment parameter. The method was tested by assessing the effect of selected experimental variables on the DRT. The suitability of the method as a quality control tool for sunscreen preparations was then checked by assessing the influence of selected formulation variables on the photoprotective effect of a series of o/w emulsion formulations with different compositions. The method proved valid for detecting changes in the photoprotective effect of a market sunscreen product as a result of modifying experimental conditions. It also proved valid for ranking market sunscreen products according to their UV screening effect. Equally important, the method could successfully detect changes in the photoprotective effect of sunscreen test formulations as a function of the concentration and type of the sunscreen agents.