Showing papers in "Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2014"

Survey of cosmetics for arsenic, cadmium, chromium, cobalt, lead, mercury, and nickel content.

Abstract: As part of efforts to assess amounts of inorganic element contamination in cosmetics, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration contracted a private laboratory to determine the total content of seven potentially toxic or allergenic elements in 150 cosmetic products of 12 types (eye shadows, blushes, lipsticks, three types of lotions, mascaras, foundations, body powders, compact powders, shaving creams, and face paints). Samples were analyzed for arsenic, cadmium, chromium, cobalt, lead, and nickel by inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry and for mercury by cold vapor atomic fluorescence spectrometry. The methods used to determine the elements were tested for validity by using standard reference materials with matrices similar to the cosmetic types. The cosmetic products were found to contain median values of 0.21 mg/kg arsenic, 3.1 mg/kg chromium, 0.91 mg/kg cobalt, 0.85 mg/kg lead, and 2.7 mg/kg nickel. The median values for cadmium and mercury were below the limits of detection of the methods. The contract requirements, testing procedures, and findings from the survey are described.

Antioxidant, antimelanogenic, and skin-protective effect of sesamol.

Abstract: Sesame contains high nutritional value and important bioactive lignans which are good for health-promoting effects including sesamol. Sesamol is found in trace amounts in sesame. The biological action from the trace amounts of sesamol found might indicate its efficacy. This paper presents a systematic study of the antimelanogenic and skin-protective effects (antioxidant) of sesamol and positive compounds. The results showed that sesamol had the most scavenging 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl hydrate (DPPH·) radical with an IC50 value < 14.48 µM. The antioxidant power (Ferric reducing antioxidant power value) of sesamol at a concentration of 0.1129 µM was 189.88 ± 17.56 µM FeSO4. Sesamol inhibited lipid peroxidation with an IC50 value of 6.15 ± 0.2 µM. Moreover, sesamol possessed a whitening effect by inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase at an IC50 value of 1.6 µM and an inhibition of cellular tyrosinase with 23.55 ± 8.25% inhibition at a concentration of 217.2 µM. Sesamol exhibited high antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activity compared to the positive control, kojic acid and β-arbutin. Sesamol from edible sesame seed could therefore have an alternative cosmeceutical purpose.

Need of UV protection and evaluation of efficacy of sunscreens.

Abstract: Sun exposure has been coupled with numerous types of acute and chronic reactions in skin, for example, sun burns, photoimmune suppression, photoaging, and skin cancer. In scrutiny of growing understanding of the potentially unfavorable long-term side effects of solar irradiation, there is a universal call for harmless and effective photoprotectants. Photoprotective agents are used for protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiations. In support of best photoprotective measures, now sunscreens are in great demand. Safeguard from UVB is quantified as a minimal erythema dose-based sun protection factor (SPF). UVA protection testing methods include evaluation of persistent pigment darkening (PPD) and critical wavelength. The rationale of this review is to present the contemporary information on the cutaneous pathophysiology of photooxidative stress, to study different UV filters with their UV spectrum and various commercially available sunscreens, with special emphasis on their active ingredients and SPFs. The characterization of different parameters to evaluate the efficacy of sunscreens, for example, SPF, immune suppression factor, photostability, and water resistance, have been described on the basis of findings from different researchers.

Stability of urea in solution and pharmaceutical preparations.

Abstract: The stability of urea in solution and pharmaceutical preparations was analyzed as a function of temperature (25°-60°C), pH (3.11-9.67), and initial urea concentration (2.5%-20%). This study was undertaken to (i) obtain more extensive, quantitative information relative to the degradation of urea in both aqueous and non-aqueous solutions and in pharmaceutical preparations, and (ii) test the effects of initial urea concentration, pH, buffer, and temperature values on urea degradation. The stability analysis shows that urea is more stable at the pH range of 4-8 and the stability of urea decreases by increase in temperature for all pH values. Within the experimental range of temperature and initial urea concentration values, the lowest urea degradation was found with lactate buffer pH 6.0. The urea decomposition rate in solution and pharmaceutical preparations shows the dependence of the initial urea concentrations. At higher initial urea concentrations, the rate of degradation is a decreasing function with time. This suggests that the reverse reaction is a factor in the degradation of concentrated urea solution. For non-aqueous solvents, isopropanol showed the best effort in retarding the decomposition of urea. Since the losses in urea is directly influenced by its stability at a given temperature and pH, the stability analysis of urea by the proposed model can be used to prevent the loss and optimize the operating condition for urea-containing pharmaceutical preparations.

The mixture of different parts of Nelumbo nucifera and two bioactive components inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis.

Abstract: Melanin is the pigment responsible for the color of the eyes, hair, and skin in humans. Tyrosinase is well known to be the key enzyme in melanin biosynthesis. JKTM-12 is composed of the flowers, roots, seeds, and receptacles of Nelumbo nucifera (lotus). In this study, JKTM-12 was investigated for its inhibitory effects on tyrosinase activity and melanin biosynthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. Moreover, two main bioactive compounds (hyperoside and astragalin) were found from the receptacles of N. nucifera, which are used as the main material of JKTM-12. JKTM-12 was shown to inhibit tyrosinase activity and melanin biosynthesis in alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells. Hyperoside and astragalin, which are the main bioactive compounds of JKTM-12, not only inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis but also tyrosinase-related protein 1 and tyrosinase-related protein 2 mRNA expression without cytotoxicity at various experiment doses (0.1, 1, and 10 μg/ml). These results suggest that JKTM-12 has the potential for skin whitening with hyperoside and astragalin as the main bioactive compounds.

Anti-skin-aging benefits of exopolymers from Aureobasidium pullulans SM2001.

Abstract: Background There have been many attempts to search for affordable and effective functional cosmetic ingredients, especially from natural sources. Objectives As research into developing a functional cosmetic ingredient, we investigated whether exopolymers from Aureobasidium pullulans SM2001 (E-AP-SM2001) exert antioxidant, antiwrinkle, whitening, and skin moisturizing effects. Methods Antioxidant effects of E-AP-SM2001 were determined by measuring free radical scavenging capacity and superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity. Antiwrinkle effects were assessed through the inhibition of hyaluronidase, elastase, collagenase, and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1. Whitening effects were measured by tyrosinase inhibition assay, and by melanin formation test in B16/F10 melanoma cells. Skin moisturizing effects were detected by mouse skin water content test. Results E-AP-SM2001 showed potent DPPH radical scavenging activity and SOD-like effects. Additionally, hyaluronidase, elastase, collagenase, and MMP-1 activities were significantly inhibited by E-AP-SM2001. We also observed that E-AP-SM2001 effectively reduced melanin production by B16/F10 melanoma cells and mushroom tyrosinase activities. Furthermore, significant increases in skin water content were detected in E-AP-SM2001- treated mouse skin, as compared with vehicle-treated control skin. Notably, a mask pack containing E-AP-SM2001 showed a >twofold more extensive moisturizing effect compared with one containing Saccharomycopsis ferment filtrate. Conclusions Our results suggest that E-AP-SM2001 has adequate antiaging, antiwrinkle, and whitening benefits and skin moisturizing effect. These effects involve reducing hyaluronidase, elastase, collagenase, and MMP-1 activities, as well as inhibition of melanin production and tyrosinase activities. Therefore, the antioxidant E-AP-SM2001 may serve as a predictable functional ingredient.

Comparison of damage to human hair fibers caused by monoethanolamine- and ammonia-based hair colorants

Abstract: The number of Level 3 hair color products that substitute 2-aminoethanol [monoethanolamine (MEA)] for ammonia is increasing. There is some anecdotal evidence that higher levels of MEA can be more damaging to hair and more irritating than a corresponding equivalent level of the typical alkalizer, ammonia (in the form of ammonium hydroxide). Our interest was to understand in more quantitative terms the relative hair damage from the two alkalizers, particularly at the upper limits of MEA on-head use. Limiting investigations of oxidative hair damage to increases in cysteic acid content (from cystine oxidation) can underreport the extent of total damage. Hence, we complemented Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) cysteic acid level measurement with scanning electron microscopy (SEM) photomicrographs to visualize cuticle damage, and protein loss to understand not only the oxidative damage but also the damage caused by other damage pathways, e.g., reaction of the more nucleophilic (than ammonia) MEA with hair protein. In fact, all methods show an increase in damage from MEA-based formulations, up to 85% versus ammonia in the most extreme case. Hence, if the odor of ammonia is a concern, a better approach may be to minimize the volatility of ammonia in specific chassis rather than replacing it with high levels of a potentially more damaging alkalizer such as MEA.

Analysis of the torsional storage modulus of human hair and its relation to hair morphology and cosmetic processing.

Abstract: Through measurements of three different hair samples (virgin and treated) by the torsional pendulum method (22°C, 22% RH) a systematic decrease of the torsional storage modulus G' with increasing fiber diameter, i.e., polar moment of inertia, is observed. G' is therefore not a material constant for hair. This change of G' implies a systematic component of data variance, which significantly contributes to the limitations of the torsional method for cosmetic claim support. Fitting the data on the basis of a core/shell model for cortex and cuticle enables to separate this systematic component of variance and to greatly enhance the discriminative power of the test. The fitting procedure also provides values for the torsional storage moduli of the morphological components, confirming that the cuticle modulus is substantially higher than that of the cortex. The results give consistent insight into the changes imparted to the morphological components by the cosmetic treatments.

Oxidative stability of cosmetic argan oil: a one-year study.

Abstract: The objective of this work is to determine the chemical stability of cosmetic argan oil (INCI: Argania spinosa kernel oil). The methodology involves the repeated measurement over a 1-year period of the quality metrics used in the cosmetic industry: acid and peroxide value and specific absorbance. During this year, storage is performed at 40° or 25°C to assess the importance of temperature. In this latter case, oil samples have been either protected or exposed to sunlight. In addition, sterol and fatty acid composition is determined to attest argan oil chemical integrity over 1 year. Storage of argan oil at 40°C results in a rapid loss of quality. Stored at 25°C and protected from sunlight, argan oil quality is still satisfactory after 12 months according to the official Moroccan norm, but storage should not be longer than 6 months to fulfill industrial standards.

Preventive effects of tamarind seed coat extract on UVA-induced alterations in human skin fibroblasts.

Abstract: One of the most damaging actions on skin is from solar radiation, particularly from its ultraviolet (UV) component, through the formation of oxidative species. Thus, an antioxidant strategy that prevents the formation of these oxidants could form the basis of an efficacious cutaneous protectant. Many herbal materials contain antioxidant polyphenols, and this study assessed the possibility that tamarind seed coat extract could fulfill this role. An alcoholic extract of the tamarind (Tamarindus indica L.) seed coat showed stronger antioxidant activity (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl inhibition, EC(50) = 12.9 μg/ml) than L-ascorbic acid (EC(50) = 22.9 μg/ml) and α-tocopherol (EC(50) = 29.3 μg/ml). In cultured fibroblasts taken from human skin, hydrogen peroxide (100-1000 μM) damaged 62-92% of the cells compared to only 35-47% when the cells were preincubated in extract (200 μg/ml) for 24 h. UVA (40 J/cm2) irradiation of human fibroblasts damaged 25% of the cells but the death rate was reduced to 10% with extract. UV irradiation increased the proportion of cells arrest in G(0)/G(1) phase (from 59% to 78%) but this was largely prevented by the extract (64%), according to flow cytometry. Intracellular total glutathione of UVA-irradiated cells pretreated with the extract increased to 10-25% compared to the non-pretreated group at 24-72 h after irradiation. Fibroblasts typically increased matrix metalloproteinase-1 secretion after photodamage, and this is prevented by the extract. This is the first report showing that tamarind seed coat extract is an antioxidant and can protect human skin fibroblasts from cellular damage produced by UVA and thus may form the foundation for an antiaging cosmetic.

Effect of the combination of different depigmenting agents in vitro.

Abstract: Melanin plays a key role in our skin, protecting us against ultraviolet radiation, but there are situations in which its anomalous accumulation can lead to either aesthetic problems or diseases like melasma. For this reason, it is important to find agents that are able to decrease the skin pigmentation. It has been demonstrated that the melanin synthesis pathway can be inhibited at different levels by different mechanisms of action. The aim of this project is to combine some of these agents with different mechanisms of action on this pathway in order to find synergistic effects in the inhibition of tyrosinase and melanin synthesis. Kojic acid + α-lipoic acid combination are the only ones that have shown a synergistic effect over mushroom tyrosinase. However, this effect is not seen in melanin synthesis inhibition, although this combination is the most effective one. A potentiation effect is seen in arbutin + α-lipoic acid and kojic acid + azelaic acid combination. Kojic acid and α-lipoic acid combination might prove a good approach as treatment for hyperpigmentation disorders.

Antioxidant activity in mung bean sprouts and safety of extracts for cosmetic use.

Abstract: The antioxidant activity of mung bean sprouts was studied in this research. Active ingredients in different lengths of mung bean sprouts were extracted with water. Concentrations of the main proteins and polyphenols were determined. Antioxidizing capacities of the extracts were measured in vitro using the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging test, ferric reducing antioxidant power method, and chelation abilities of ferrous ion. The safety of the extracts was determined using the red blood cell (RBC) test, chick chorioallantoic membrane (CAM) assay, and human skin patch test. Results show that DPPH radical scavenging rates at different shoot lengths were all greater than 85%, while the total antioxidant capacity of the extracts reached more than 4.0 and the chelation abilities of first-day sprout extract is nearly 80%, indicating that mung bean sprouts have excellent anti-oxygenic property. Results of RBC (hemolysis ratio), CAM (vascular morphological), and human skin patch tests (changed subjects) illustrated extracts of mung bean sprouts are safe and can be used as additives in antiaging cosmetic products.

Method for screening sunscreen cream formulations by determination of in vitro SPF and PA values using UV transmission spectroscopy and texture profile analysis.

Abstract: Formulation of sunscreen products to obtain high values of sun protection factor (SPF) and protection from ultraviolet A (PA) is challenging work for cosmetic chemists. This study aimed to study factors affecting SPF and PA values using ultraviolet transmission spectroscopy as well as texture profiles of sunscreen formulations using 23 factorial designs. Results demonstrate that the correlation coefficient between the labeled SPF values of counter-brand sunscreen products and the in vitro SPF values was 0.901. In vitro SPF determination showed that the combination effect of phase volume ratio (PVR) and xanthan gum caused a significant increase to the SPF values of the formulations, whereas the interaction effect between PVR and stearic acid significantly decreased the SPF value. In addition, there was the interaction effect between xanthan gum and stearic acid leading to significant reduction of hardness, compressibility, and pH, but significantly increasing the adhesiveness. All tested factors did not significantly affect the cohesiveness of tested formulations. In conclusion, apart from sunscreen agents, the other ingredients also affected the SPF and PA values. The calculated SPF values range from 21 to 60. However, a selected formulation needs to be confirmed by the standard method of testing. In addition, the physical, chemical, and biological stability; shelf life; and sensory evaluation of all formulations need to be evaluated.

Preliminary analysis of the distribution of water in human hair by small-angle neutron scattering

Abstract: Diffusion and distribution of water in hair can reveal the internal structure of hair that determines the penetration of various products used to treat hair. The distribution of water into different morphological components in unmodified hair, cuticle-free hair, and hair saturated with oil at various levels of humidity was examined using small-angle neutron scattering (SANS) by substituting water with deuterium oxide (D(2)O). Infrared spectroscopy was used to follow hydrogen-deuterium exchange. Water present in hair gives basically two types of responses in SANS: (i) interference patterns, and (ii) central diffuse scattering (CDS) around the beam stop. The amount of water in the matrix between the intermediate filaments that gives rise to interference patterns remained essentially constant over the 50-98% humidity range without swelling this region of the fiber extensively. This observation suggests that a significant fraction of water in the hair, which contributes to the CDS, is likely located in a different morphological region of hair that is more like pores in a fibrous structure, which leads to significant additional swelling of the fiber. Comparison of the scattering of hair treated with oil shows that soybean oil, which diffuses less into hair, allows more water into hair than coconut oil. These preliminary results illustrate the utility of SANS for evaluating and understanding the diffusion of deuterated liquids into different morphological structures in hair.

Molecular marker approaches for tracking redox damage and protection in keratins

Abstract: There is increasing awareness of the importance of reductive and oxidative (redox) protein damage in protein-based materials including, hair, wool, nails, and skin. Light-induced damage to protein-based materials is of particular concern because of its impact on age-related degradation and product life spans. Consequently, cosmetic applications frequently target hair and skin restoration, where the integrity of the constituent filamentous proteins is essential to a healthy appearance. The keratins constitute an important subset of the structural proteins within skin, hair, and wool. We will introduce a means to assess damage to this important group of proteins at the molecular level, utilizing proteomic techniques to track the formation or degradation of sensitive peptides within intermediate filament proteins. The degradation of three molecular markers of redox damage, the peptides SFGYR, LASDDFR, and DVEEWYIR, along with the formation of their oxidized products, is demonstrated after exposure to ultraviolet A, ultraviolet B, and blue light. The method is shown to be suitable for evaluating the protective effect of treatments, as lower levels of oxidative markers were observed after the application of a protective fiber treatment. Molecular-level redox tracking will allow more targeted design and evaluation of protection and repair treatments for protein systems.

Selection of fragrance for cosmetic cream containing olive oil.

Abstract: Perceptions of essences for potential use in the development of a line of cosmetic emulsions containing olive oil were studied. Six cream samples prepared with six essences selected in a preliminary study were evaluated for overall liking and intention to purchase by a 63-women sample. A check-all-that-apply (CATA) question consisting of 32 terms was used to gather information about consumer perceptions of fragrance, affective associations, effects on the skin, price, target market, zones of application, and occasions of use. Hierarchical cluster analysis led to the identification of two consumer clusters with different frequency of use of face creams. The two clusters assigned different overall liking scores to the samples and used the CATA terms differently to describe them. A fragrance with jasmine as its principal note was selected for further development of cosmetic creams, as it was awarded the highest overall liking scores by respondents of the two clusters, and was significantly associated with cosmetic features including nourishing, moisturizing, softening, with a delicious and mild smell, and with a natural image, as well as being considered suitable for face and body creams. The use of CATA questions enabled the rapid identification of attributes associated by respondents with a cosmetic cream's fragrance, in addition to contributing relevant information for the definition of marketing and communication strategies.

Internal structure changes of eyelash induced by eye makeup.

Abstract: To investigate how eye makeup affects eyelash structure, internal structure of eyelashes were observed with a scanning X-ray microscopic tomography system using synchrotron radiation light source. Eyelash samples were obtained from 36 Japanese women aged 20-70 years and whose use of eye makeup differed. Reconstructed cross-sectional images showed that the structure of the eyelash closely resembled that of scalp hair. The eyelash structure is changed by use of eye makeup. There was a positive correlation between the frequency of mascara use and the degree of cracking in cuticle. The positive correlation was also found between the frequency of mascara use and the porosity of the cortex. By contrast, the use of eyelash curler did not affect the eyelash structure with statistical significance.

Fucus extract: cosmetic treatment for under-eye dark circles.

Abstract: Background Dark circles around the eyes are a complex issue with two main possible causes, the accumulation of melanin in the skin around the eyes and the accumulation of heme resulting from blood leakage. The free heme produced in this manner is highly cytotoxic, proinflammatory and pro-oxidative. Aims To evaluate the effect of Fucus extract on heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) stimulation activity, and to study its in vitro anti-inflammatory, antioxidative, and collagen stimulation activity. Methods The HO-1 stimulation activity was first evaluated at gene level by reverse transcriptase- polymerase chain reaction targeting specific HO-1 gene, and then followed by Western blot in protein level. The in vitro anti-inflammatory effect was measured by quantification of interleukin-8 (IL-8) level. The in vitro antioxidative activity was measured. Collagen stimulation activity was quantitatively measured by the amount of deposited collagen I in the extracellular matrix. Results Fucus extract was identified to have HO-1 stimulation activity at both gene and protein level. By stimulating this enzyme, it promotes the degradation of toxic heme to its protective catabolites (CO, Ferritin, and bilirubin) and reduces the source of dark circles. In addition, Fucus extract showed good anti-inflammatory efficacy. The strong antioxidation property of Fucus extract can reduce eye bags and wrinkles while its collagen boosting activity will potentially reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Conclusion Fucus extract is a novel product that brings a quadruple approach to the treatment of under-eye dark circles.

Assessment of cadmium, lead, and nickel levels in hair care products marketed in Turkey.

Abstract: This study evaluated the content of cadmium (Cd), lead (Pb), and nickel (Ni) in 105 hair care products commercially available in Turkey. Cd, Pb, and Ni were detected in 40%, 21.91%, and 94.29% of the samples, respectively. Maximum Cd concentrations were detected in two shampoo samples, and the highest Pb level was found in a hair conditioner, all of them were herbal-based formulations. The highest mean levels of Ni were detected in hairstyling agents. The overall results were lower than the Canadian and German regulatory limits; however, according to the European Council Directive and Turkish Cosmetic Legislation, Cd, Pb, and Ni are listed as the substances that are prohibited in any amounts in cosmetics. Moreover, Ni content of 17.14% of the samples was above the limit of allergic contact dermatitis. It is known that these toxic metals tend to accumulate in body and prolonged use of them may potentially pose threat to human health. Thus, regular market monitoring and safer limits should be seriously considered especially for susceptible groups of the population like the pediatric group.

Determination of zinc pyrithione in shampoos by HPLC and HPLC-MS/MS.

Abstract: Methods have been developed for the determination of zinc pyrithione (ZPT) in shampoos using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and high-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry/mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS). Samples were washed by water first to remove surfactant and water-soluble impurities, then ultrasonic-extracted by acetonitrile-methanol for 30 min, and finally analyzed by MG C18 column (250 mm x 4.6 mm, 5 μm) or RP-18e (100 mm x 3 mm, 2 μm) plus APCI-MS/MS. Limits of detection were determined as 0.015% (HPLC) and 0.003% (HPLC-MS/MS), with a limit of quantization of 0.05% and 0.01%, respectively. The recoveries were 85.8-104% (HPLC) and 87.6-107% (HPLC-MS/MS). A good linear relationship was obtained from 3.20 μg·ml(-1) to 200 μg·ml(-1) (HPLC) and 1.00 μg·ml(-1) to 200 μg·ml(-1) (HPLC-MS/MS). The proposed methods have been successfully applied to the analysis of ZPT in many shampoos. The established two methods were rapid and reproducible with low interference.

Increased endogenous DNA oxidation correlates to increased iron levels in melanocytes relative to keratinocytes.

Abstract: The endogenous oxidative state of normal human epidermal melanocytes was investigated and compared to normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) in order to gain new insight into melanocyte biology. Previously, we showed that NHEKs contain higher levels of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) than melanocytes and that it can migrate from NHEKs to melanocytes by passive permeation. Nevertheless, despite lower concentrations of H2O2, we now report higher levels of oxidative DNA in melanocytes as indicated by increased levels of 8-oxo-2'-deoxyguanosine (8-oxo-dG): 4.49 (±0.55 SEM) 8-oxo-dG/10(6) dG compared to 1.49 (±0.11 SEM) 8-oxo-dG/10(6) dG for NHEKs. An antioxidant biomarker, glutathione (GSH), was also lower in melanocytes (3.14 nmoles (±0.15 SEM)/cell) in comparison to NHEKs (5.98 nmoles (±0.33 SEM)/cell). Intriguingly, cellular bioavailable iron as measured in ferritin was found to be nearly fourfold higher in melanocytes than in NHEKs. Further, ferritin levels in melanocytes were also higher than in hepatocarcinoma cells, an iron-rich cell, and it indicates that higher relative iron levels may be characteristic of melanocytes. To account for the increased oxidative DNA and lower GSH and H2O2 levels that we observe, we propose that iron may contribute to higher levels of oxidation by reacting with H2O2 through a Fenton reaction leading to the generation of DNA-reactive hydroxyl radicals. In conclusion, our data support the concept of elevated oxidation and high iron levels as normal parameters of melanocytic activity. We present new evidence that may contribute to our understanding of the melanogenic process and lead to the development of new skin care products.

Nanoemulsion of D-limonene in water system prepared by ultrasonic emulsification.

Abstract: D-Limonene is a component of essential oil extracted from citrus fruits. This component has shown chemopreventive and therapeutic activity against a wide variety of experimental tumors, but D-limonene is unstable and lose its lemon-like flavor under normal storage condition, and it is almost insoluble in water. Therefore, studying the formation of nanoemulsion in D-limonene in water system is probably a good method to prevent the oxidation degradation of D-limonene. For the purpose of our study, we used mixed surfactant to form D- limonene-in-water emulsion, and found the best formula for forming nanoemulsion droplets with specified hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) value and droplet size. The results demonstrated that nanoemulsion droplets formed at So ratio of 0.4 and applied power of 18 W for 120 s under mixed surfactant at HLB values 12 and had droplet size of 20-50 nm.

Applying the sensory analysis in the development of chitosan hydrogel containing polymeric nanocapsules for cutaneous use.

Abstract: This work aimed to develop a chitosan hydrogel containing polymeric nanocapsules with optimized sensory properties, linking the advantages of the nanocarriers, such as controlled release and protection of the substances, to the chitosan properties, such as bioadherence, cicatrizing effect, and antimicrobial activity. Sixty untrained volunteers evaluated the sensory properties of chitosan hydrogels compared to hydroxyethyl cellulose gels (Phase I) and to optimized chitosan gels (Phase II). The volunteers' preference between formulations was also evaluated. The chitosan hydrogel, despite the presence of nanocapsules, presented higher immediate stickiness and film formation on the skin, and lower acceptance than the hydroxyethyl cellulose gels. Regarding the optimized gel, decrease on the film formation and increase on the homogeneity of the film was observed, compared to the prior chitosan gel. So, the optimization of the chitosan gel led to higher acceptance by the volunteers. The presence of nanocapsules, besides increasing the chitosan gel consistence, increased the perception of film formation. For the optimized chitosan gel, the nanocapsules increased the homogeneity of the film formed on the skin, without increasing the perception of film formation. In conclusion, through sensory analysis, the formulation was optimized presenting, at the final stage, adequate sensory properties for cutaneous use.

Development of a new resistant liposome coated with polysaccharide film for cosmetic application.

Abstract: The aim of our study was to elaborate a resistant liposome that can be used in cosmetic formulations containing high amounts of surfactants and electrolytes. The stability of liposomes was increased via hydrophobized polysaccharide (Stearoyl Inulin) by anchoring its stearic acid tail into liposome bilayer. Coated and noncoated liposomes were prepared under the same conditions and their morphology, size, and resistance to surfactants and electrolytes were evaluated. We established that coated lipbsomes were more resistant to surfactants and electrolytes. It seems that a coating of polysaccharides prevents liposome destabilization in the presence of high amounts of surfactants and electrolytes. Moreover, the ability of coated liposomes to improve the skin delivery of active molecules was evaluated. Coated liposomes increased the efficacy of magnesium chloride by improving its skin availability.

Foundation products have a measureable impact on moisturization

Abstract: Multifunctional products are becoming more prevalent in the color cosmetics market. We evaluated four foundation products for in vivo moisturizing benefits using the mini-regression test method. We found that statistically significant long-lasting moisturization was provided by the foundations tested, but only if hygroscopic moisturizing ingredients were present.