Journal ArticleDOI
A unified two-parameter wave spectral model for a general sea state
TLDR
Based on theoretical analysis and laboratory data, the authors proposed a unified two-parameter wave spectral model as is the mean squared surface elevation, and λ 0, n0 are the wavelength and frequency of the waves at the spectral peak.Abstract:
Based on theoretical analysis and laboratory data, we proposed a unified two-parameter wave spectral model as is the mean squared surface elevation, and λ0, n0 are the wavelength and frequency of the waves at the spectral peak This spectral model is independent of local wind Because the spectral model depends only on internal parameters, it contains information about fluid-dynamical processes For example, it maintains a variable bandwidth as a function of the significant slope which measures the nonlinearity of the wave field And it also contains the exact total energy of the true spectrum Comparisons of this spectral model with the JONSWAP model and field data show excellent agreements Thus we established an alternative approach for spectral models Future research efforts should concentrate on relating the internal parameters to the external environmental variablesread more
Citations
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Journal ArticleDOI
A new view of nonlinear water waves: the Hilbert spectrum
TL;DR: In this paper, Hilbert spectral analysis is proposed as an alternative to wavelet analysis, which provides not only a more precise definition of particular events in time-frequency space, but also more physically meaningful interpretations of the underlying dynamic processes.
Journal ArticleDOI
A unified directional spectrum for long and short wind-driven waves
TL;DR: In this article, a two-dimensional wave spectral model is proposed for the high and low-wavenumber regimes, which is based on the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) in the long-wave regime and on the work of Phillips [1985] and Kitaigorodskii [1973] at the high-wavenumbers.
Journal ArticleDOI
Directional spectra of wind-generated waves
TL;DR: In this paper, the directional spectrum of wind-generated waves on deep water is determined by using a modification of Barber's (1963) method, and the results reveal that the frequency spectrum in the rear face is inversely proportional to the fourth power of the frequency.
Book
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters
TL;DR: The SWAN wave model as discussed by the authors is a wave model based on linear wave theory (SWAN) for oceanic and coastal waters, and it has been shown to be effective in detecting ocean waves.
Journal ArticleDOI
Similarity of the wind wave spectrum in finite depth water: 1. Spectral form
TL;DR: In this article, a self-similar spectral shape (the TMA spectrum) was proposed to describe wind waves in water of finite depth, where the parametric spectral form is depth dependent and an extension of the deep water JONSWAP spectrum.
References
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Journal ArticleDOI
A proposed spectral form for fully developed wind seas based on the similarity theory of S. A. Kitaigorodskii
TL;DR: In this article, the authors used the data for the spectra of fully developed seas obtained for wind speeds from 20 to 40 knots as measured by anemometers on two weather ships.
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On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum Part 1. General theory
TL;DR: In this article, the energy flux in a finite-depth gravity-wave spectrum resulting from weak non-linear couplings between the spectral components is evaluated by means of a perturbation method.
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The statistical analysis of a random moving surface
TL;DR: In this article, the authors derived the probability distribution of the surface elevation and of the magnitude and orientation of the gradient for a random, moving, Gaussian surface, and the average number of zero-crossings per unit distance along a line in an arbitrary direction.
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The equilibrium range in the spectrum of wind-generated waves
TL;DR: For large values of the frequency ω, the spectrum Φ(ω) is of the form φ( π( φ) √ g^2\omega^{-5}$ where α is an absolute constant as discussed by the authors, which is consistent with the observed occurrence of sharp crests in a well developed sea.
Journal ArticleDOI
On the dynamics of unsteady gravity waves of finite amplitude Part 1. The elementary interactions
TL;DR: In this article, the authors considered the non-linear interactions between pairs of intersecting gravity wave trains of arbitrary wavelength and direction on the surface of water whose depth is large compared with any of the wavelengths involved.