Journal ArticleDOI
Note on wave parameters from moored wave buoys
Bárður A. Niclasen,Knud Simonsen +1 more
TLDR
In this paper, it was shown that the accuracy of common wave parameters remains acceptable up to a cut-off limit in the range of 0.30-0.35 Hz if the spectra above the cutoff frequency are replaced by a prognostic f − 5 tail.About:
This article is published in Applied Ocean Research.The article was published on 2007-11-01. It has received 13 citations till now. The article focuses on the topics: Sea state & Mooring.read more
Citations
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Journal ArticleDOI
Wave forecasts and small-vessel safety: A review of operational warning parameters
TL;DR: In this paper, a review of the sea state parameters and safety warning indicators for small vessels is presented, focusing on the parameters that are important for small vessel safety, and a current trend in marine forecasts, going beyond the usual parameters, is tailoring the product to the end users.
Journal ArticleDOI
A global climate analysis of wave parameters with a focus on wave period from 1979 to 2018
TL;DR: In this paper, a long-term analysis on the temporal variation and spatial pattern of wave parameters is performed, with a focus on wave period, and the mean and maximal conditions of peak period reflect the dominance of the swell and the region where it generates.
Journal ArticleDOI
Identification of Nearshore Wave Characteristics Using Robotic Total Stations
TL;DR: In this paper, a geodetic method for accurate determination of nearshore wave characteristics is proposed, based on a robotic total station set on stable position on the coast and aiming at a passive reflector mounted on a buoy, usually at a distance of a few hundred meters.
Journal ArticleDOI
ACE - A Model Centered REU Program Standing on the Three Legs of CSE: Analysis, Computation and Experiment
Hong Liu,Andrei Ludu +1 more
TL;DR: A model centered REU program entitled as ACE standing for Analysis, Computation and Experiment is presented, planned to run for the next 5 years and to serve for 20-30 undergraduate students who are gifted in mathematics and computing annually.
Journal ArticleDOI
Comparative analysis of significant wave height between a new Southern Ocean buoy and satellite altimeter
TL;DR: Based on the L3 products of multiple satellite altimeters, the authors analyzes and corrects the significant wave height (SWH) data of WEMB by means of data matching, error statistics, and linear least-squares fitting.
References
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Journal ArticleDOI
A Practical Guide to Wavelet Analysis.
TL;DR: In this article, a step-by-step guide to wavelet analysis is given, with examples taken from time series of the El Nino-Southern Oscillation (ENSO).
Book
The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves
TL;DR: In this article, the authors present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from a deterministic point of view, and the bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.
Journal ArticleDOI
The equilibrium range in the spectrum of wind-generated waves
TL;DR: For large values of the frequency ω, the spectrum Φ(ω) is of the form φ( π( φ) √ g^2\omega^{-5}$ where α is an absolute constant as discussed by the authors, which is consistent with the observed occurrence of sharp crests in a well developed sea.
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Wave Crest Distributions: Observations and Second-Order Theory
TL;DR: In this article, the effect of wave steepness, water depth, and directional spreading on wave crest height is considered and a Lagrangian measurement of wave crests is performed.