Journal ArticleDOI
The visual estimation of shore-breaking wave heights
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In this paper, a combination of field data for simultaneous visual estimations and measurements of breaking wave height is shown that experienced observers are able to estimate mean height with only a 20% error.About:
This article is published in Coastal Engineering.The article was published on 1984-11-01. It has received 9 citations till now. The article focuses on the topics: Significant wave height & Wave height.read more
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The morphodynamics of beach-ridge formation: Magilligan, Northern Ireland
TL;DR: In this paper, two types of beach ridge are being formed, in both cases as part of the general recovery sequence following storm erosion of the dune cliffs, and both constitute important sources for dune-building sand.
Journal ArticleDOI
A shallow marine emergent sequence from the northwestern sector of the last British ice sheet, Portballintrae, Northern Ireland
TL;DR: In this article, a well-preserved emergent facies sequence formed around 17 kyr B.P. as the Late Devensian ice sheet withdrew from the continental shelf.
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Automated Detection of Breaking Wave Height Using an Optical Technique
TL;DR: A relatively simple yet robust approach to detecting and quantifying breaking wave position and height across a wide surf zone using a twin video camera configuration coupled with an image time-stack analysis approach.
Journal ArticleDOI
Surfzone-beach-dune interactions along a variable low wave energy dissipative beach
Martim A.B. Moulton,Martim A.B. Moulton,Patrick A. Hesp,Graziela Miot da Silva,Robert Keane,Guilherme Borges Fernandez +5 more
TL;DR: In this article, different possible factors that influence or drive the observed volumetric and morphological variation in foredunes located along 16 km of a low wave energy, dissipative southern section of the 190 km long Younghusband Peninsula (South Australia) are examined.
A wave climatology for u.s. coastal waters
E F Thompson,D L Harris +1 more
TL;DR: In this paper, a program conducted by the Coastal Engineering Research Center, cumulative wave height distribution functions from 10 wave gages operated by this agency over the past 20 years along the Atlantic, Pacific, and Gulf Coasts have been examined in the format of the exponential distribution.
References
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Book
Statistics and data analysis in geology
TL;DR: In this article, a thoroughly revised edition presents important methods in the quantitative analysis of geologic data, such as probability, nonparametric statistics, and Fourier analysis, as well as data analysis methods such as the semivariogram and the process of kriging.
Journal ArticleDOI
The Statistical Distribution of the Maxima of a Random Function
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors studied the statistical distribution of the maximum values of a random function which is the sum of an infinite number of sine waves in random phase and applied it to sea waves and to the pitching and rolling motion of a ship.
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Eye and Brain
TL;DR: This paper will concern you to try reading eye and brain as one of the reading material to finish quickly to increase the knowledge.