Wind Generated Ocean Waves

TLDR: In this paper, the authors introduce wave theory, wave transformation limitations of linear wave theory and dimensionless scaling growth curves for energy and peak frequency one-dimensional spectrum directional spreading, and finite depth effects.

Abstract: Part 1 Wave theory: introduction small amplitude or linear theory wave transformation limitations of linear wave theory. Part 2 Stochastic properties of ocean waves: introduction probability distribution of wave heights global distribution of wave properties limitations of global statistics. Part 3 Physical mechanisms of wave evolution: introduction radiative transfer equation atmospheric input, Sin* nonlinear quadruplet interactions, Sni* white-cap dissipation, Sds* the spectral balance. Part 4 Fetch and duration limited growth: introduction similarity theory and dimensionless scaling growth curves for energy and peak frequency one-dimensional spectrum directional spreading. Part 5 Non-stationary wind fields: introduction the interaction of swell and wind sea rapid change in wind speed rapid change in wind direction hurricane wind and wave fields. Part 6 Finite depth effects: introduction physical processes finite depth growth curves finite depth one-dimensional spectra finite depth directional spreading. Part 7 Numerical modelling of waves: introduction phase resolving models phase averaging models source term representation computational aspects the WAM model data assimilation. Part 8 Ocean wave measurement: introduction "in situ" methods data analysis remote sensing techniques.