Albert Falqués

TL;DR: In this article, the coupling between topographic irregularities and wave-driven mean water motion in the surf zone is examined, and the linearized stability problem with an originally plane sloping beach and normal wave incidence is solved in two different cases.

TL;DR: In this article, a morphodynamic stability model for the formation of a rip channel/crescentic bar system on a straight single-barred coast is presented, which includes a comprehensive treatment of shoaling and surf zone hydrodynamics, including wave refraction on depth and currents and waves.

TL;DR: In this article, a nonlinear model coupling wave transformation and breaking, a shallow-water equations solver, sediment transport and bed updating is developed, and it is found that the cross-shore profile of the ratio of stirring factor to water depth together with the wave incidence angle primarily determine the shape and the type of bars, either transverse or oblique to the shore.

TL;DR: In this article, the formation and development of transverse and crescentic sand bars in the coastal marine environment has been investigated by means of a nonlinear numerical model based on the shallow-water equations and on a simplified sediment transport parameterization.

TL;DR: In this paper, a nonlinear numerical model based on a wave and depth-averaged shallow water equation solver with wave driver, sediment transport, and bed updating is used to investigate the long-term evolution of rip channel systems appearing from the deformation of a longshore bar.